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Ipswich Jules

Original Poster:

13 posts

48 months

[news] 
Monday 22nd November 2010 quote quote all
I've got (a unregistered) VAGCOM - but I'm not too sure how to use it, anything you can advise me on and I'll report any findings here

Cheers

TDIfurby

1,832 posts

58 months

[news] 
Monday 22nd November 2010 quote quote all
Get it registered wink

Does it come up with the 5 digit error code? That number can be used and google ususally brings up full fault description. smile

Mycorn

3 posts

43 months

[news] 
Sunday 12th December 2010 quote quote all
I have a 2004 Audi 1.9Tdi 130 with a related intermittent problem. On reapplying the throttle after slowing through a corner, there is sometimes an engine hesitation before power comes on in a cloud of smoke. Recently, when the car is started from warm, the engine runs for a few seconds, then dies. This problem sometimes does not happen for days then reappears fairly consistently before going again. My local garage can find no fault codes and say that the EGR is clean. Am I likely to be looking for an EGR solenoid, MAF or turbo vanes fault?

Tame Technician

2,292 posts

87 months

[news] 
Monday 13th December 2010 quote quote all
Mycorn said:
I have a 2004 Audi 1.9Tdi 130 with a related intermittent problem. On reapplying the throttle after slowing through a corner, there is sometimes an engine hesitation before power comes on in a cloud of smoke. Recently, when the car is started from warm, the engine runs for a few seconds, then dies. This problem sometimes does not happen for days then reappears fairly consistently before going again. My local garage can find no fault codes and say that the EGR is clean. Am I likely to be looking for an EGR solenoid, MAF or turbo vanes fault?
Sound like a boost leaks or EGR fault.

Check for leaking intercooler and or split boost hoses.

Need to check EGR valve actually works, if not check vacuum pipes and solonoid. Solonoid Need to be final controlled with a diag machine.



Definatley not the turbo with a hesitation

Mycorn

3 posts

43 months

[news] 
Monday 13th December 2010 quote quote all
Thanks Tame Tech - the EGR valve seems to move freely when I push the plunger leading to the diaphragm. Will check that a vacuum has the same effect. Forgot to mention - when the engine dies, there is a loud pneumatic venting sound from the engine bay? Where is the EGR solenoid located so I can remove and test?
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Tame Technician

2,292 posts

87 months

[news] 
Monday 13th December 2010 quote quote all
Mycorn said:
there is a loud pneumatic venting sound from the engine bay? ?
boost leak

Ipswich Jules

Original Poster:

13 posts

48 months

[news] 
Tuesday 28th December 2010 quote quote all
Hello again, recently the turbo cutting out has become more frequent, after about 30-40 miles on a motorway it seems to go, I replaced the MAF back in the summer so I'd hope it's not that again - I have run my VAGCOM (even if I'm not sure I'm doing it right!) and this is a copy/paste of the findings, can anyone shed any light on it?

[i]Chassis Type: 8L - Audi A3/S3
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,22,35,37,45,55,56,57,75,76



Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 038 906 012 A
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 2801
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 06435
1 Fault Found:
17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation
P1557 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A



Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.LBL
Controller: 1J0 907 379 Q
Component: ABS/EDS 20 IE CAN 0001
Coding: 13304
Shop #: WSC 06435
No fault code found.[/i]


Obviously I can see the second one isn't boost related but I have tested the ABS and that seems fine so not overly concerned by that, the boost problem is my main problem at the mo

Any help will be hugely appreciated!

Cheers in advance

Jules

Edited by Ipswich Jules on Tuesday 28th December 13:24

TDIfurby

1,832 posts

58 months

[news] 
Tuesday 28th December 2010 quote quote all
That charge pressure control, positive deviation means the turbo is giving more boost than the car is requesting. It chucks the car into limp mode to preserve the engine - a good feature.. honestly. wink

The most common reason for this is sticky vanes in the turbo, which are not "opening" when it needs to, i.e at hig speed/revs/gears. The turbo is "closed" at lower speeds to encourage early spooling of the turbo, to minimise lag. Once up to speed, the idea of the vanes is to open up. Sticky vanes (usually clogged up by exhaust soot) will stop the turbo from opening up. If you can see the end of the actuator on the turbo, you can try to move the rod to see if its stuck. It will move, but is quite stiff to move even when clean. Hooking up the vacuum pipe to a vacuum pump can replicate the vacuum the car generates normally, when turned off. smile Full vagcom can also run tests in engine 01 section, which will exercise the actuator with the engine turned off (but ignition on obviously)

If you are lucky a damn good thrashing through the gears might clear some soot out, but really the turbo needs removing, and opening up, and cleaning out thoroughly (but carefully). Also worth removing the inlet manifold and EGR and doing the same thing, as this clogs up too, restricting the amount of air getting into the engine. Here's an example of a clogged up inlet. Look how much crap is there, and how much gap the turbo boosted air has to get through....




Edited by TDIfurby on Tuesday 28th December 23:38

Ipswich Jules

Original Poster:

13 posts

48 months

[news] 
Tuesday 28th December 2010 quote quote all
Cheers TDIFurby, I can't see the image as not a member of that site - any chance you can host/link it elsewhere?

Cheers

Jules

TDIfurby

1,832 posts

58 months

[news] 
Tuesday 28th December 2010 quote quote all
Damn - it must have found me. biggrin I will save it and host it on my photobucket.

Edit: here we go - messy! biggrin



Edited by TDIfurby on Tuesday 28th December 23:38

Ipswich Jules

Original Poster:

13 posts

48 months

[news] 
Monday 3rd January 2011 quote quote all
Thanks TDIfurby, I've been doing a bit of research and it seems a product by Innotec if specifically made for the job, I've not read any bad reports about it - it's about £45 for the pack and I'm mechanically competent enough to do it (from the reports of how people have done it previously), do you - or anybody else - have any thoughts/opinions on this product?
http://www.innotecworld.com/c-1064-turbo-clean-set...

Cheers

TDIfurby

1,832 posts

58 months

[news] 
Monday 3rd January 2011 quote quote all
Yeah - that would help with the cleaning side of things. But do you actually know it is that? Innotec won't help with the inlet manifold gunk though. It is easier to access then inlet mnanifold & EGR from above though.

Ipswich Jules

Original Poster:

13 posts

48 months

[news] 
Monday 3rd January 2011 quote quote all
I was going by a search on the fault code VAGCOM threw up and the solutions people have used for it, the Innotec system seemed to of kept popping up in peoples solutions and like I said I've yet to read a negative report about the product
For £45 and a seemingly easy procedure I think it's got to be worth a shot?
I'm just wary as it seems almost too good to be true and normally if it sounds too good to be true.....

Tame Technician

2,292 posts

87 months

[news] 
Monday 3rd January 2011 quote quote all
The trouble with those cleaning cans, is they make is sound so simple, and it rarely is.

The only way to 100% fix overboost caused by sticking turbo vains is to replace the turbo. Given they are £1000 it is worth the cost of the gaskets to remove the turbo and clean it out, but I cant see you will be able to apply any cleaning solution etc with the turbo still on the car.


Ipswich Jules

Original Poster:

13 posts

48 months

[news] 
Monday 3rd January 2011 quote quote all
From what i can understand it is a two part cleaning kit, you remove the turbo outlet (3 bolts), use a sealing plate supplied which has a hole in it, the first part is sprayed into the turbo through the hole in the sealing plate, as it's a foam it breaks down the oil / soot deposits (much like how a foam oven spray works I guess), after about an hour the second part is put in to clean out the first part, I've heard that people suggest moving the actuator arm during the "foam phase", bolt it back up and give it a try
I think for £45 it's worth a try rather than spending £200 + on a recon turbo, as I plan to get a newer audi tdi in the summer.

At least I can try it first hand and report any findings on here for other users if they find themselves in the same situation

Mycorn

3 posts

43 months

[news] 
Monday 14th February 2011 quote quote all
My A4 Tdi hesitation problem has been solved by not using Tesco fuel. Have been running on Shell for two trouble free months now.

djwoody

2 posts

21 months

[news] 
Friday 5th October 2012 quote quote all
Hi.
This morning I was travelling at around 70mph for 5 minutes, decellerated and came out of gear into neutral. Then my engine management light started flashing.
Performance is fine and the light goes out after about a minute but then comes back on again.
Could this be comething to do with the EGR valve?

Chris

legacy4cam

10 posts

53 months

[news] 
Friday 5th October 2012 quote quote all
hi, sounds very similar to the issue I had with my AHF 110 tdi Octavia, and it was cured by changing the vacuum actuator on the variable vanes of the turbo. Bought one from Turbo-online through a well known auction site.
You can test yours with a vac pump, if you can borrow one.

Cheers, Iain

djwoody

2 posts

21 months

[news] 
Saturday 6th October 2012 quote quote all
legacy4cam said:
hi, sounds very similar to the issue I had with my AHF 110 tdi Octavia, and it was cured by changing the vacuum actuator on the variable vanes of the turbo. Bought one from Turbo-online through a well known auction site.
You can test yours with a vac pump, if you can borrow one.

Cheers, Iain
I had a feeling it could be that. I have already replaced the Turbo Boost Control Position Sensor but I suppose this was just getting a bad reading due to to the faulty actuator.
Is this the sort of kit you mean? http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/242051-turboc...

I have the 2.0 170bhp A3 so I think this should be the part.

Chris

Albert819

2 posts

1 month

[news] 
Monday 23rd June quote quote all
Hello Everyone,


I just bought this 2006 Audi A3 1.6.. I’m having serious issues and hoping that someone can give me guidance. The first part I changed in the car was the fuel pump. I just moved to the UAE and didn’t know of any mechanics in the area so I took it to some random place. They said to change the fuel pump and also to change the fuel filter because the car wasn’t injecting gas into the engine properly.. They also recommended to change sparks plugs, breather pipe, brake pads, and bunch of other things that I can’t remember at the moment. I ended up spending soooo much money.. Then the problem came right back.. The car wasn’t taking in gas properly.. Here in the UAE, it gets really hot in the summer.. Currently it’s like 50 C and whenever it is hot outside the car shuts of in the middle of the road. .. I then try to turn off the engine and restart and it starts fine but then shuts off again… it also cuts of during the evening time as well after I have the car running for a while but the problem is more common durring the afternoon when it is really hot.. and sometime when I have the car parked for a while with the ac on I get a strong gasoline smell.. So then I took the car to an Audi mechanic and they told me to change the ACF valve and also replace the fuel pump again with an original Audi Pump.. So I did that and now the problem is back again.. The car was still running awkwardly but it wasn’t shutting for a good week after I added original Audi pump.. but a week later it is doing the same thing.. the car shuts off and I can smell the gasoline

I now took the car to another audi dealership and now they are saying that I need to change fuel injectors, I need an softwear update and the engine control unit might need to be replaced.. Its coming out to be another $3000 dollars..


Does this sound right and are there alternatives like getting the fuel injectors cleaned instead of replacing it and ECU fixed somehow

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