Discussion
7 TVR said:
Nothing but respect for what you doing and the pace your doing it at! Would of loved to of controlled the speed of my build, was lacking the knowledge, time and sheer balls so hats of to you 
Look forward to seeing the car at the Growl and comparing notes!
thanks, I 've had lots of assistance though, cant take all the creditLook forward to seeing the car at the Growl and comparing notes!
...to name a few...
Craig at dynatorque....welding guru and master at stating the obvious that i've thought far too hard about..really hands on chap who knows the LS, and has helped and advised on a number of different ways of doing things
Ian at sportmotive (you can see his headers, gearbox mount, engine mount etc in there), and a fountain of knowledge on "how to stuff the ls in a TVR"
Ant, (loads of help with wiring plans and other bits)
Tim adams Racing Engines....what he doesnt know about engine builds isn't worth knowing. he let me use his workshop sat, fitted the valve guide for me as the technique was "freeze one bit, heat the other and bang it together in a couple of seconds", and generally made sure i didn't fubar anything. Im happy to build the engine, but far happier knowing i can say "is this ok?' to someone who REALLY knows. (while i was there, he was setting a 580hp 5.0 ford on the dyno!)...destined for an original GT40.....and the best bit, cost me a box of biscuits...literally, wouldnt take a penny
Im waiting on a bit from SH engineering for my diff mount....if that arrives, i hope to refit the body next weekend.
Edited by SSPPGG on Monday 20th February 15:35
Edited by SSPPGG on Monday 20th February 16:01
decided i might fit PAS to this car....you can see a few racks dotted around the garage as a I "squirm" at paying out for a tvr setup........and as i can't easily fit the rover setup to the LS, thinking i might as well make my own setup
found something that will fit the existing chassis mounts, rack length is within 2mm, and with a bit of fettling, i think it might work,
Ratio is currently a bit quicker than a manual rack, but not as quick as the tvr PAS.....but i can fit the internals of a quick rack if i want......but at the moment just playing with a cheap rack to see if it'll work before i do that
only difficult bit was making a pinion that would work with the tvr stuff.....
just about finished
will put this together at the weekend, and see if it works ok
found something that will fit the existing chassis mounts, rack length is within 2mm, and with a bit of fettling, i think it might work,
Ratio is currently a bit quicker than a manual rack, but not as quick as the tvr PAS.....but i can fit the internals of a quick rack if i want......but at the moment just playing with a cheap rack to see if it'll work before i do that
only difficult bit was making a pinion that would work with the tvr stuff.....
just about finished
will put this together at the weekend, and see if it works ok
Edited by SSPPGG on Thursday 23 February 19:59
Edited by SSPPGG on Thursday 23 February 20:01
Thanks, though a few weeks yet before it runs.
I will probably do the loom fuel tank. Then loom etc next.
Don't need a remote, the t56 mid shift sits only a couple inches forward of the original shifter hole, and centrally, so with a bit of a bracket, I can make that shifter work without using a remote, and as I shortened the shifter, I can get it all under the original transmission tunnel, and use the precat whaletali, which I was unsure about.
I will cut an access panel like the later cars though, as it makes life easier fitting the shifter mechanism.
I did have a slight mishap with the shifter though, it uses some cast levers in the mechanism, first try and I broke one, so the supplier is sending replacements.
I will probably do the loom fuel tank. Then loom etc next.
Don't need a remote, the t56 mid shift sits only a couple inches forward of the original shifter hole, and centrally, so with a bit of a bracket, I can make that shifter work without using a remote, and as I shortened the shifter, I can get it all under the original transmission tunnel, and use the precat whaletali, which I was unsure about.
I will cut an access panel like the later cars though, as it makes life easier fitting the shifter mechanism.
I did have a slight mishap with the shifter though, it uses some cast levers in the mechanism, first try and I broke one, so the supplier is sending replacements.
refitted the rad yesterday...what a PITA.
is there ANY way to refit that without scratching the inner panels????
after 30 mins fiddling, i resorted to grinding off maybe 5mm of the 4 extremities of the rad mounting brackets, repainting those, which made refitting easy....
also finished off the new fuel pump wiring and connections, refitted fuel tank, bolted the remaining body bolts down.
is there ANY way to refit that without scratching the inner panels????
after 30 mins fiddling, i resorted to grinding off maybe 5mm of the 4 extremities of the rad mounting brackets, repainting those, which made refitting easy....
also finished off the new fuel pump wiring and connections, refitted fuel tank, bolted the remaining body bolts down.
Got to say how impressed i am by what you've taken on and the speed with which it's coming back together.
I've been abroad for the last three weeks suffering severe Griff withdrawal symptoms as I had to leave mine with the front suspension dismantled (about the limit of my capabilities!). I've regularly been checking your progress on PH and, Like the others, really look forward to seeing the completed car at The Growl. David.
I've been abroad for the last three weeks suffering severe Griff withdrawal symptoms as I had to leave mine with the front suspension dismantled (about the limit of my capabilities!). I've regularly been checking your progress on PH and, Like the others, really look forward to seeing the completed car at The Growl. David.
Shawbags said:
Got to say how impressed i am by what you've taken on and the speed with which it's coming back together.
I've been abroad for the last three weeks suffering severe Griff withdrawal symptoms as I had to leave mine with the front suspension dismantled (about the limit of my capabilities!). I've regularly been checking your progress on PH and, Like the others, really look forward to seeing the completed car at The Growl. David.
thanks chap.....lovely day outside today, spurred me onto get a few bits and pieces ordered up so i can get the griff back on the roadI've been abroad for the last three weeks suffering severe Griff withdrawal symptoms as I had to leave mine with the front suspension dismantled (about the limit of my capabilities!). I've regularly been checking your progress on PH and, Like the others, really look forward to seeing the completed car at The Growl. David.
made a template for a laser cut 15mm thick bracket to hold the alternator, as that wont fit in its normal position as it fouls the chassis (it'll end up top right of the engine,
drew up a design for the header tank in ali....which will sit pretty much where the old one did, and have somewhere for the temp sender and otter switch to be mounted.
ordered up some heater/vac/and other hoses as the old stuff is "crusty"
modified the thermostat housing (cut it in half so it can be welded at an angle) as it would likely make the hose foul the front chassis rail if left
i think im going to try to mount the coil packs at the rear of the heads if i can, so the plug leads run below the headers, that way they are far less likely to get burned, and it keeps the plug leads as short as i can.
put the new LS wiring loom in over the weekend, after pulling out the last of the rover stuff. no real problems, it all just plugged in.
I need to get an earth strap, and make or get a box for the battery connections, as between the ecu, starter, alternator, and other bits and pieces there is far too much going on around the battery.
had a mounting bracket made up for the alternator in ss, just need to machine back the original alternator mount by 12mm to account for the plate thickness....
i tried about every possibility of alternator location, and even a few small low output alternators, to get the alternator low down in the engine bay, but it was just not going to happen unless i ended up with a tiny "race' alternator that cost a fortune, and probably wouldn't charge the battery enough to turn the starter....
once the alt is in, i will probably need to support it of the back as well as this bracket, but ill need to do that once mounted and in position, with the belt wrapped
drew up the header tank for costing, which worked out at under 100, so will have that made up.
my old exhaust will be a little too small bore for the LS i think, so have sent the car to craig at dynotorque, who is going to fab up a larger bore system in SS, and squeeze it in around the chassis/gearbox etc
also ordered up some coil pack relocators, as id prefer not to wrap the plug leads over the exhausts if possible
This is where the modified t56 shifter comes up....ive cut an access panel, but the top of the shifter is below the tunnel
so i will need to make a shifter a little like this one
went to connect the new copper brake lines to the bulkhead, and surprised that the 3 bulkhead connections are the same size for all the brakes, but the new copper line to the rear is a different connector.
either that, or my drawing which tells me which bulkhead connector is which is incorrect, and I am confusing the clutch line (could make life fun), so i will have to have another look at that,
I need to get an earth strap, and make or get a box for the battery connections, as between the ecu, starter, alternator, and other bits and pieces there is far too much going on around the battery.
had a mounting bracket made up for the alternator in ss, just need to machine back the original alternator mount by 12mm to account for the plate thickness....
i tried about every possibility of alternator location, and even a few small low output alternators, to get the alternator low down in the engine bay, but it was just not going to happen unless i ended up with a tiny "race' alternator that cost a fortune, and probably wouldn't charge the battery enough to turn the starter....
once the alt is in, i will probably need to support it of the back as well as this bracket, but ill need to do that once mounted and in position, with the belt wrapped
drew up the header tank for costing, which worked out at under 100, so will have that made up.
my old exhaust will be a little too small bore for the LS i think, so have sent the car to craig at dynotorque, who is going to fab up a larger bore system in SS, and squeeze it in around the chassis/gearbox etc
also ordered up some coil pack relocators, as id prefer not to wrap the plug leads over the exhausts if possible
This is where the modified t56 shifter comes up....ive cut an access panel, but the top of the shifter is below the tunnel
so i will need to make a shifter a little like this one
went to connect the new copper brake lines to the bulkhead, and surprised that the 3 bulkhead connections are the same size for all the brakes, but the new copper line to the rear is a different connector.
either that, or my drawing which tells me which bulkhead connector is which is incorrect, and I am confusing the clutch line (could make life fun), so i will have to have another look at that,
Edited by SSPPGG on Tuesday 6th March 10:32
new brake line arrived today, seems automec got the old one wrong, as the new one fits fine, but as they supplied a foc replacement with no issues, i cant be too unhappy, though a real PITA to refit.
machined the back of the old alt bracket, so that fits fine now, and clears the exhaust and fan belt wrap is ok, though i might add a guide pulley to make sure
the old headers have been modified to take the exhaust much lower, and now will emit less heat around the front of the engine, as i dont need the cats that this setup was originally designed for.
i have some sort of plan to wire the speedo via the ecu, and see if that can be used to drive the SW gauges, rather than using speedy to add a "box of electronics" to the back of the speedo, with an adjustable pot.
coming together....
machined the back of the old alt bracket, so that fits fine now, and clears the exhaust and fan belt wrap is ok, though i might add a guide pulley to make sure
the old headers have been modified to take the exhaust much lower, and now will emit less heat around the front of the engine, as i dont need the cats that this setup was originally designed for.
i have some sort of plan to wire the speedo via the ecu, and see if that can be used to drive the SW gauges, rather than using speedy to add a "box of electronics" to the back of the speedo, with an adjustable pot.
coming together....
Ha… like others, I’d not spotted this post before (well, only in the early days before the LS came into it)….. what a top job.. respect to what you're doing and the rate you’re doing it!... Will be very nice when finished…. And interested in seeing it if I get to the Growl!.....
Will be keeping a close eye on the progress from now on!... Best of luck!!
Will be keeping a close eye on the progress from now on!... Best of luck!!
snookes said:
I had a look at your car yesterday while I was
At Dyno torque
Only seen it from underneath
Wow! what a job. I wish I'd got the skill and
The patience to have a go at mine
Top job
thanks chap, the top needs some tidying, but that will have to wait till next winter...as ive spent all my money.At Dyno torque
Only seen it from underneath
Wow! what a job. I wish I'd got the skill and
The patience to have a go at mine
Top job
i suspect the bonnet will remain unpainted this summer too
SSPPGG said:
I did have a slight mishap with the shifter though, it uses some cast levers in the mechanism, first try and I broke one, so the supplier is sending replacements.
my FOC shifter parts arrived today..with a £22 handling charge from customs.....robbing b
ds... wouldn't accept any argument that as a foc replacement part, no vat or duties were due.might only be £22, but i think an appropriately worded letter of "theft" of my money to hmrc will be winging its way today
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