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gavgavgav
Original Poster
1,265 posts
98 months
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(I reckon you guys who have had the body off would know this) I need to replace the flexible fuel pipe. Where abouts does the rubber pipe end after the fuel filter? I suspect it must go to a copper pipe somewhere, trying to figure out if I can get to it easily enough on axle stands. As far as I can see it disappears along the chassis around the exhaust plate.
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carsy
1,281 posts
34 months
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The rubber pipe after the filter normally attaches to the copper pipe along the outer of the main chassis rail, basically directly beneath the filter near to where the outrigger attaches to the main chassis. You should be able to see it from underneath.
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roseytvr
640 posts
47 months
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Just above the passenger rear arb mount
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gavgavgav
Original Poster
1,265 posts
98 months
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Ahh super, so it's just a job to take off the ARB to access the connection?
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DarkMatter
956 posts
100 months
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gavgavgav said: Ahh super, so it's just a job to take off the ARB to access the connection? Yes, that's right.
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BliarOut
53,514 posts
108 months
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Do the engine bay ones when you're at it!!! They fail silently down near the bulkhead.
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TJS10
230 posts
70 months
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I reconnected the battery this morning ready to take the Griff for its annual MOT. The car has not been started for 8 months. The usual 4 second whirr of pumps and then the sound of liquid splashing on the garage floor followed by smell of fuel. Switched the ignition off, disconnected the battery and looked at a puddle of fuel underneath the car below the dash / rear of the engine. I will need to get the car collected by transporter and off to the local garage and onto their ramps to see what needs to be replaced.
Fuel pump is at the rear of the car ... so, perished hose or connection to the fuel rail ???
Upside, well at least it failed while in the garage at home and not when in use with hot exhaust, engine running, miles from home at night in the pouring rain.
TJS
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BliarOut
53,514 posts
108 months
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It's the flexible pipes from just above the clutch bell housing to the injector rail that have gone on yours. More fiddly than hard but I'd do every pipe while you're at it 
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TJS10
230 posts
70 months
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Thanks
i will order new rubber fuel pipes for the entire car. 4 metres enough? also what size, I think from looking a severeal TVR parts suppliers it is the 7.3 mm internal diameter rather than the 12mm internal diameter. I assume the pipe is held in place with stainless steel jubilee clips. How may per car ? two per length (3 lengths ?) = 6?
TJS
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Simon says
9,311 posts
90 months
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TJS10
230 posts
70 months
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What a b  h of a job ! The TVR specialist that provided the hose also offered a complimentary packet of swear words, all of which were used. It seems the length of the copper pipe varies between cars depending on either the mood of the fitter or available supply of pipe at the factory. Suffice to say the feed pipe on my car was only just reachable. Tips for the future. If you cant visibly see the copper pipe down the front of the bulkhead take the car the car to a TVR specialist and pay them to do the job. Also if you are right handed. The pipes that eventually came off were 7mm diameter, replacements 7.3mm. Replace with the larger bore and proper fuel line clamps. The originals were fitted (crushed) with jubilee clips which caused the leak Unfasten and move the coolant pipes out of the way, you may lose an egg cup of fluid, also the connector to the stepper motor. Plenum stayed on. Unbolt and move the bonnet lock mechanism for the pipe tucked neatly behind the rear of the rocker cover. Buy a very long reach slotted screwdriver to get at the jubilee clips and long reach 6mm socket on flexible extension for the replacement fuel line clips. Long reach 12 inch pliers and second person to hold the copper pipe when refitting the rubber hose Silicone spay and cup of very hot water to soak the end of the replacement hose will give you a fighting chance of getting the hose onto the pipe. Used mates cup of tea, it was Earl Grey, so the rubber didn't effect the taste. Remove the bonnet (30 second job). I did contemplate replacing the copper piping with stainless steel and extending the length to tuck neatly at the back to the engine below the plastic screen base. Maybe next time. If you are a gynaecologist by profession and used to painting the hallway through your letter box you will love this job. TJS
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TJS10
230 posts
70 months
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What a b h of a job ! The TVR specialist that provided the hose also offered a complimentary packet of swear words, all of which were used. It seems the length of the copper pipe varies between cars depending on either the mood of the fitter or available supply of pipe at the factory. Suffice to say the feed pipe on my car was only just reachable. Tips for the future. If you cant visibly see the copper pipe down the front of the bulkhead take the car the car to a TVR specialist and pay them to do the job. Also if you are right handed. The pipes that eventually came off were 7mm diameter, replacements 7.3mm. Replace with the larger bore and proper fuel line clamps. The originals were fitted (crushed) with jubilee clips which caused the leak Unfasten and move the coolant pipes out of the way, you may lose an egg cup of fluid, also the connector to the stepper motor. Plenum stayed on. Unbolt and move the bonnet lock mechanism for the pipe tucked neatly behind the rear of the rocker cover. Buy a very long reach slotted screwdriver to get at the jubilee clips and long reach 6mm socket on flexible extension for the replacement fuel line clips. Long reach 12 inch pliers and second person to hold the copper pipe when refitting the rubber hose Silicone spay and cup of very hot water to soak the end of the replacement hose will give you a fighting chance of getting the hose onto the pipe. Used mates cup of tea, it was Earl Grey, so the rubber didn't effect the taste. Remove the bonnet (30 second job). I did contemplate replacing the copper piping with stainless steel and extending the length to tuck neatly at the back to the engine below the plastic screen base. Maybe next time. If you are a gynaecologist by profession and used to painting the hallway through your letter box you will love this job. TJS
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Hedgehopper
582 posts
113 months
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Amazes me that you did this job with the plenum in place. Ten minute job to move the plenum to one side complete with accel. linkeage, makes job relatively easy.
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Marty V8
575 posts
55 months
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Did you also replace the fuel line return to the tank whilst you were at it? Although its not subjected to the same pressure as the fuel supply pipe, it also gets the full heat treatment as well and is as liable to crack with age and heat.
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TJS10
230 posts
70 months
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The feed pipe was towards the offside of the car and the long reach tools could be threaded through the throttle mounting brackets if the rubber pipe between the intake and rear of the plenum was removed. The return pipe was also changed as a precaution which was wise as the over tightened jubilee clip had split the hose. Rubber fuel hoses near the manifold seem rather scary so I will get some heat protective tubing to cover the pipes, the type secured by velcro so that it can be easily removed and the pipes regularly inspected. http://www.nimbusmotorsport.com/ProdShop2.asp?id=6...
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but you can just get 8mm I.D Fuel Inj hose this fits every fitting nice and snug 
these can help for the hose 
much easier with the intake plenum removed I might add 
