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virgil
Original Poster
1,521 posts
93 months
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jeboa said: I have the same engine. The journals are the smaller (2.3") type, even though the block is the later type (HRC2411) which has the castings for x-bolting - it seems that TVR power never implemented that until later. Not sure why, maybe the availability of the blocks, or maybe they had a lot of small journal cranks left to use up?
I'm still considering what to do with my 5.0ltr engine at present. It's out of the car, and I'm putting in a V8D 4.6 for now. I may re-build the 5ltr over the winter - will give me something to do in the garage!!
My engine sufffered from a disintegrated distributor drive gear. The crank is in perfect condition, but it looks like I may need to spend close to £1k-1.5k to rebuild.
Alternative is to sell as parts, any ideas what the following would be worth:
Block (not x-bolted) £
Small journal 5ltr crank £
Flywheel (TvR 500 lightweight) £
Pistons (+TVR conrods) £
Heads (Big Valve, ported, etc.) £
The flwheel would need to be neutral balanced (unless sold as a set with the crank, and the pulley) I'll have the crank - give me a price....
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virgil
Original Poster
1,521 posts
93 months
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Precat said: Sorry to see the state of your engine.
When looking at your pictures, I notice the main caps are of the early type with small registers.
These do not give much support to the crank when compared to the cross bolt type fitted to the later 500 engines, though the cross bolts were not generally fitted. The later main caps are a better fit in the block and give more support to the rotating assembly.
If you can have a look at the later 4.6 block and the main caps you might find it useful.
From a cost affective point of view, a 4.6 short motor, fitted with 4.0ltr pistons is an option.
I know it's not a 5 ltr
Hope these thoughts help. Precat Any idea if 2.3 cross bolted caps exist and are they swappable, or block specific?
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TVR Beaver
2,105 posts
49 months
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virgil said: Agree with anotehr recent post re con rods as well...the pistons have got SO much spare space at the top. Take a pic of the pistons if you could... on my other post I'm just going on what I've been told... Cheers!!!... and good luck!! 
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Precat
148 posts
94 months
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2.3" cross-bolt main caps do exist.
There were used in TVR 4.5 Tuscan Challenge engines and the later TVR 500 engines.
Before this some Tuners had the blocks machined to accept custom made cross-bolt main caps.
Main caps are usually block specific. Precat.
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tivver500
76 posts
139 months
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Sounds a bit like the 'saga' I had on my 500. Woodruff key slot in the crank pulley was oversize allowing the pulley to move about and wear down the nose of the crank.
Colin Apps (TVRS SW) rebuilt the engine after crank repairs and fitted a stepped woodruff key so no chance of it happening again!! Apparently this is not uncommon.
My cam had also worn - after 24000 miles - so was replaced with a 'stealth' profile cam.
Now runs beautifully.
Good luck with yours - if my crank had been shot I'd probably have looked at an LS1 conversion.......
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Simon says
9,291 posts
90 months
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Precat said: 2.3" cross-bolt main caps do exist.
There were used in TVR 4.5 Tuscan Challenge engines and the later TVR 500 engines.
Before this some Tuners had the blocks machined to accept custom made cross-bolt main caps.
Main caps are usually block specific. Precat.  Andy Quinn/Quinny had a 500 cross bolted small journal block 
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virgil
Original Poster
1,521 posts
93 months
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TVR Beaver said: Take a pic of the pistons if you could... on my other post I'm just going on what I've been told... Cheers!!!... and good luck!! Sorry - not forgotten...just not been near the worshop for a few days! Will take pics tonight and post up...
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Wotland
27 posts
72 months
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If you sell rods&pistons, I am interested....
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virgil
Original Poster
1,521 posts
93 months
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TVR Beaver said: Take a pic of the pistons if you could... on my other post I'm just going on what I've been told... Cheers!!!... and good luck!! piston and rod  piston top  piston inside/bottom  piston height  piston dia.  pin dia.  piston above pin  hope that helps a little... you can see the turning marks on the bottom of the piston and just how much piston is above the pin and how little below!
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rev-erend
17,903 posts
153 months
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You forgot rod length 
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virgil
Original Poster
1,521 posts
93 months
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rev-erend said: You forgot rod length ...and big end width :-( ...wanted to do that but couldn't get the pistons off the rods last night...to be fair I didn't try very hard. Anyone know how much pressure one needs to apply? easy doable or difficult and easy to screw up rod piston or pin?? Got a replacement crank coming hopefulyl in a week or so...and have decided to rebuild it myself. Probably against all sound advice and must say many thanks to Ray, Rob and Shaun so far at V8D - they've been so helpful! At least I'll be buying cam and rebuild stuff form them (and possibly a bottom end if this one goes south again!!) Will post up pics as and when if anyone's interested...still trying to find someone local to do the crank work for me, but got a few good pointers, so getting closer...why aren't V8D further south????
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haircutmike
6,740 posts
73 months
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Seen it done using a bit of heat with an oxy/acetelene torch, they don't remove easily!
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TVR Beaver
2,105 posts
49 months
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Cheers Neil.. thats very interesting... they look like new on the skirt then if you can see the turning marks...
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with regards to getting the pins out... I've removed some years ago on a Land Rover by making a seat in a piece of wood to hold the piston.. and putting a braw bolt through to pull the pin out?.. I guess these are the same unless the intefearance fit in bigger??
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haircutmike
6,740 posts
73 months
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John, these need heating to a high degree.
Seen it done at Chesman Engineering and Austec Racing.
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TVR Beaver
2,105 posts
49 months
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haircutmike said: John, these need heating to a high degree.
Seen it done at Chesman Engineering and Austec Racing. Are they that tight... mind you, re-looking at the pic's above there are no circlips so I guess at 100 deg, they still need to be a tight press fit...
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virgil
Original Poster
1,521 posts
93 months
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certainly the little end has a nice colour on it...blue tinged, I guess from when they assembled them. The pin is a lovely nice sliding fit in the piston though...
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haircutmike
6,740 posts
73 months
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TVR Beaver said: haircutmike said: John, these need heating to a high degree.
Seen it done at Chesman Engineering and Austec Racing. Are they that tight... mind you, re-looking at the pic's above there are no circlips so I guess at 100 deg, they still need to be a tight press fit... A nice tight shrink fit on the rod and slides a beaut in the piston!
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TVR Beaver
2,105 posts
49 months
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Would be good to get rid of all the oil and heat the piston / rod and pin assy up to 90 deg or so.. and then see what the nice sliding fit is like?.. .Rob says this is where the noise on the 500's come from. haircutmike said: A nice tight shrink fit on the rod and slides a beaut in the piston! when you fit them you want the rod hot and the pin in the freezer for a few hours first then..
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virgil
Original Poster
1,521 posts
93 months
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jeboa said: I Block (not x-bolted) £
Small journal 5ltr crank £
Flywheel (TvR 500 lightweight) £
Pistons (+TVR conrods) £
Heads (Big Valve, ported, etc.) £
The flwheel would need to be neutral balanced (unless sold as a set with the crank, and the pulley) Hope the Hols went well and the Weekend was productive!! Just sent you a PM as my home mail is FUBAR after migrating to SKY Broadband!!
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jeboa
412 posts
130 months
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Thanks Neil, was all good. Have sent you a PM.
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