Head Gasket Problem ??
Discussion
Steve_D said:
Pics needed.
Sounds more likely to be the joint between inlet manifold, valley gasket and head. There is a water passage at each end of the heads. The rebuild instructions add a ring of sealant around each passage but none on the rest of the gasket.
I wouldn't put anything on the head gasket!Sounds more likely to be the joint between inlet manifold, valley gasket and head. There is a water passage at each end of the heads. The rebuild instructions add a ring of sealant around each passage but none on the rest of the gasket.
Sealant only goes into the join between the valley seals and where the little tails of the head gasket end, you can put a smear around the water way on the valley gasket but you don't really want to do anything to interfere with the head gasket mating (just asking for trouble IMO).
Quinny said:
Have you pulled the plugs....... Well worth checking if any plug has been "steam cleaned"
Above may give a clue.
Getting rid of air locks is a job for patience! I got there in the end.
1 Open the heater valves.
2 Refill and top up the swirl pot and hand press the top entry tube (black one) and the the bottom one from the swirl pot (red one) to the top of the near side radiator. This is to remove bubbles of air from the system.
3 Always have the expansion tank behind the radiator always at least half to 3/4 full of top up.
4 Repeat this sequence until the level in the expansion tank stays about the same, as measured with a mark on a stick.
5 Make sure there is no air in the top of the radiator. Mine has a large bolt on the rad top offside to allow the trapped air to hiss out.
6 Have read somewhere that it helps to get rid of air locks by jacking up the front of the car when doing 1 - 5
Edited by EGB on Monday 21st April 21:24
From the picture, I'd very carefully inspect the neck of the swirl tank if I was you.
Worn engine mounts allow the belt/pulley to grind the swirl tank neck & you could have a pin hole leak there (and saw the spray bouncing off the manifold).
ETA: distracted....
or of course a leak in the expansion hose off the swirl tank...
Worn engine mounts allow the belt/pulley to grind the swirl tank neck & you could have a pin hole leak there (and saw the spray bouncing off the manifold).
ETA: distracted....
or of course a leak in the expansion hose off the swirl tank...
I suggest you look very close at your header tank. Mine had a tiny hole and it took a long while until it became bigger and coolant was spraying out. It only did this when the engine was warmed up and also revving it to have a higher coolant flow. My pinhole was at the bottom joint of the header at the back, where it's welded together. Quite difficult to spot from above.
All the best,
Peter
All the best,
Peter
I think everybody more or less agrees. It could be a head gasket but more likely to be a pinhole leak and/or system needs bleeding. Whatever agony and mystification you are going through, it's a lot less than replacing a head gasket and likely to be a lot cheaper.
Don't forget to get your water 'sniffed' to either confirm or get rid of whether it is head gasket or not.
When I get home, I'll post a pic of my little 'bleeder'. It's not rocket science, just a nylon funnel screwed into a brass BSP fitting with some PTFE tape and screwed onto the swirl pot but it does work.
Come on Rich, I'm stuck out in this hell hole, I dying to know what the answer is...... Good luck mate, Pete
Don't forget to get your water 'sniffed' to either confirm or get rid of whether it is head gasket or not.
When I get home, I'll post a pic of my little 'bleeder'. It's not rocket science, just a nylon funnel screwed into a brass BSP fitting with some PTFE tape and screwed onto the swirl pot but it does work.
Come on Rich, I'm stuck out in this hell hole, I dying to know what the answer is...... Good luck mate, Pete
EGB said:
Getting rid of air locks is a job for patience! I got there in the end.
1 Open the heater valves.
2 Refill and top up the swirl pot and hand press the top entry tube (black one) and the the bottom one from the swirl pot (red one) to the top of the near side radiator. This is to remove bubbles of air from the system.
3 Always have the expansion tank behind the radiator always at least half to 3/4 full of top up.
4 Repeat this sequence until the level in the expansion tank stays about the same, as measured with a mark on a stick.
5 Make sure there is no air in the top of the radiator. Mine has a large bolt on the rad top offside to allow the trapped air to hiss out.
6 Have read somewhere that it helps to get rid of air locks by jacking up the front of the car when doing 1 - 5
Edited by EGB on Monday 21st April 21:24
I made up my little 'bleeder'. I also unbolted the expansion tank, snipped the elctrical ties holding the pipe and lifted it up above everything else.
I also got there in the end but it took time. Pete
spend said:
Steve_D said:
Pics needed.
Sounds more likely to be the joint between inlet manifold, valley gasket and head. There is a water passage at each end of the heads. The rebuild instructions add a ring of sealant around each passage but none on the rest of the gasket.
I wouldn't put anything on the head gasket!Sounds more likely to be the joint between inlet manifold, valley gasket and head. There is a water passage at each end of the heads. The rebuild instructions add a ring of sealant around each passage but none on the rest of the gasket.
Sealant only goes into the join between the valley seals and where the little tails of the head gasket end, you can put a smear around the water way on the valley gasket but you don't really want to do anything to interfere with the head gasket mating (just asking for trouble IMO).
Steve
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