Griff not starting after lay up

[Colin RedGriff]

Hi

On this thread there is a diagram (not TVR) for the Fuel pump and relay circuits for the Rover V8 which might help you.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=34611

[Aussie John]

Check for a fuse that is just floating in the wiring that holds the 2 relays, this can be the fault.

[S3DaveP]

I have the relays operating as they should so the ECU is sending out the correct signals but I have no power to the normally open contacts on both relays so there is no power to the inertia switch and therefore the pump.

I guess my question is where does the live supply for the pump come from ? and is there a fuse inline. I looks like the supply comes from the back of the ignition switch but there are so many different wiring diagrams I am not sure of that.

[Aussie John]

I think the live supply comes via the loose fuse, the supply for the operating coil on the pump relay comes via the ecu.

[blitzracing]

The main relay switches power to the fuel pump relay contacts when the ignition is turned on- at the same time the fuel pump relay closes to provide power to the pump. The main relay is fed from a 12 volt live feed. This is all within the 14CUX loom, and you say there is no power from the main and fuel pump relay? You will hace no AFM power or lambda power if this is the case.

Edited by blitzracing on Friday 18th July 14:05

[S3DaveP]

Thanks for the tips, I will get another chance to look at it at the weekend.

Blitz,

Is the main relay you speak about on the fuse board or is it one of the two dangling in the footwell ? I have power to those relay coils but appear to have no supply to the normally open contact on blue connector relay and the black one.

[blitzracing]

In my book the main relay is along side the fuel pump relay as part of the 14cux loom- ie the two that click together whenyou turn on the ignition- but I dont know what skull duggery goes on in the TVR loom. I know there where some odd relay wiring on the early Griffs- I think Dave Peck is your man for that.

[davep]

Lots of TVR footwell relay related info in this thread:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gAssing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Identifies the Main, Fuel and AC relays, the so called floating loom relays.

And also here:

http://www.pistonheads.com/Gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

The early pre-cat Griffs have been known to have a second relay for the Fuel Pump/Inertia Switch circuit on the Relay and Fuse board, position R8, I think. Doesn't apply to the 500s.

If you do not have +12Vdc to pin 30/51 of the Fuel Pump relay and to pins 30/51 and 86 of the Main (or Injectors) relay then do a continuity check back to the positive terminal of the battery.

Edited by davep on Friday 18th July 16:25

[S3DaveP]

Thanks Guys,

I have some things to try now, but its sooo hot I just can't face it tonight, I am a bit too old to crawl about in the footwell of a TVR.

I will have another go after the big storm they are predicting for tomorrow and report back, I really don't want to get Bespoke to recover it if I can help it, I just don't want to give up as I have some electrical knowledge(ONC electronic engineering )and if its something silly i will feel daft.

[S3DaveP]

I managed to have another go at the Griff today, I now have 12V at the fuel pump relay (blue socket pin 87) when I push the key fob, but still no fuel pump.
I checked the connections at the pump end and in the passenger B post and all seem ok but but I need to jack it up for a proper test though.
I have remembered the last few times I did start it the fuel pump did sound like it was groaning a bit and its allways been fairly noisy so I am thinking that the pump is knackered, Clever Trevor sell them for £108 plus vat so I think I will order an OEM one from them, unless there is a cheaper option?

[Loubaruch]

You can easily check your fuel pump in situ by just running a +12 v feed from the battery etc. Worth checking before buying another.

If pump is OK could be the immobiliser playing up.

[blitzracing]

On the above- if the pump wont spin with 12 volts on it- try wiring it backwards so it spins in reverse. It used to be an issue on my Ginetta when rust flakes from the tank (no filter) used to get into the pump rotor and jam it up. Spinning it backwards was enough to free it off again.