Exhaust manifold preparation
Discussion
I've acquired a decatted manifold in good condition and want to paint it. I've got the paint so should be easy. Its for the 500 so has lambda sensors also included. Do I need to take these out and if not should I clean the exposed end inside the manifold with something? I was just going to give the face that sits against the block a brush with some emery and fit new gaskets, nordlocks and ARP studs. Anything else?
FFG
FFG
blitzracing said:
Leave the probes in so you can use them with your current fuel map.
Sorry Mark, probably wasn't clear. Just wondered if I should remove them to paint the manifold but knowing its not easy getting them out probably best as you say to leave them in. Should I clean the crap off the sensor end and if so with what?FFG
FlipFlopGriff said:
I've acquired a decatted manifold in good condition and want to paint it. I've got the paint so should be easy. Its for the 500 so has lambda sensors also included. Do I need to take these out and if not should I clean the exposed end inside the manifold with something? I was just going to give the face that sits against the block a brush with some emery and fit new gaskets, nordlocks and ARP studs. Anything else?
FFG
Personally Paul, l would remove then. A good TVR specialist should do it in good faith.Mask the ends off, Then get them sandblasted and painted, l can recommend Por 20, its not cheap and can't be bought in aerosol form !!. l took mine to a local paintshop for spraying. FFG
FlipFlopGriff said:
I've got the paint so should be easy.
FFG
What paint have you got, stuff like Sperex VHT won't last five minutes unless the manifolds are sand blasted to spotless clean. Wire brushing, no matter how thorough, is no good (in my experience).FFG
B&Q barbeque paint works pretty well for a quick cheap job!
Sorry if I'm telling you what you already know
FlipFlopGriff said:
Its for the 500 so has lambda sensors also included. Do I need to take these out and if not should I clean the exposed end inside the manifold with something? FFG
Paul, if it was me I would take them out in case they got damaged. I did the classic and got a long reach 17mm socket and took an angle grinder to it to cut a slot for the wire. Believe it or not it really works and what is the cost of a 17mm long reach socket...?http://www.halfords.com/motoring/garage-equipment/...
And that's expensive from Halfrauds, or this one for £4.37 from Fleabay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-S3817D-walldrive-...
A useful tool to have in the toolbox.
I'm interested to know what you do with your manifolds. I was thinking of using Zircotec but the cost is prohibitive. Pete
It was me on f-bay, sorry. I've got other manifolds but all with cats other than a 500 without cats but no hole for the lambda sensors. Seemed easier to buy a decatted set rather than remove the cats in the existing set, and cheaper. I've got high temp POR paint which is POR15 (was POR20). I've used POR on loads of stuff - cast iron hoppers (and will do on guttering), Griff wishbones, brackets for outdoor lights, Victorian gates etc and no rust on any of it so I know its good stuff.
Looked at ceramic and its expensive and I've seen varying results after a short space of time.
FFG
Looked at ceramic and its expensive and I've seen varying results after a short space of time.
FFG
where abouts are you mate? I've got loads of POR20 left you could have?
Sandblasting of manifolds and down pipe was £20 at a local place then coated in POR20 (I bought a large tin and you hardly need any if you're giving them 3 coats).
It's been running loads on the drive, dulled down but nothing has burnt off yet, lasted longer than most things i've tried in the past. I don't think it would post easily though?
Sandblasting of manifolds and down pipe was £20 at a local place then coated in POR20 (I bought a large tin and you hardly need any if you're giving them 3 coats).
It's been running loads on the drive, dulled down but nothing has burnt off yet, lasted longer than most things i've tried in the past. I don't think it would post easily though?
FlipFlopGriff said:
It was me on f-bay, sorry. I've got other manifolds but all with cats other than a 500 without cats but no hole for the lambda sensors. Seemed easier to buy a decatted set rather than remove the cats in the existing set, and cheaper. I've got high temp POR paint which is POR15 (was POR20). I've used POR on loads of stuff - cast iron hoppers (and will do on guttering), Griff wishbones, brackets for outdoor lights, Victorian gates etc and no rust on any of it so I know its good stuff.
Looked at ceramic and its expensive and I've seen varying results after a short space of time.
FFG
As phillpot mike said earlier they need to be sandblasted or the paint can't key properly. Stick the manifold in the oven first before painting!!. The paint will key better if metal is warm. l am sure Andrea won't mind!!!. l did not know it had changed names to POR15 same as the standard anti rust stuff. l had had mine on gore over 2 years now. There has been some minor flaking on the manifolds but the y piece has stayed flake free. The parts which flaked little l rubbed down and reapplied . POR is so runny that it will airbush fine patching up the minor flaking manifolds areas. . Looked at ceramic and its expensive and I've seen varying results after a short space of time.
FFG
brett84 said:
where abouts are you mate? I've got loads of POR20 left you could have?
Sandblasting of manifolds and down pipe was £20 at a local place then coated in POR20 (I bought a large tin and you hardly need any if you're giving them 3 coats).
It's been running loads on the drive, dulled down but nothing has burnt off yet, lasted longer than most things i've tried in the past. I don't think it would post easily though?
mine still look like that after 2 years. nice engine bay. POR stinks when its curring . !!Sandblasting of manifolds and down pipe was £20 at a local place then coated in POR20 (I bought a large tin and you hardly need any if you're giving them 3 coats).
It's been running loads on the drive, dulled down but nothing has burnt off yet, lasted longer than most things i've tried in the past. I don't think it would post easily though?
brett84 said:
where abouts are you mate? I've got loads of POR20 left you could have?
Sandblasting of manifolds and down pipe was £20 at a local place then coated in POR20 (I bought a large tin and you hardly need any if you're giving them 3 coats).
It's been running loads on the drive, dulled down but nothing has burnt off yet, lasted longer than most things i've tried in the past. I don't think it would post easily though?
Many thanks for the offer, but I've got a tin (think its large just need to find it). Can't even recall what colour it is.Sandblasting of manifolds and down pipe was £20 at a local place then coated in POR20 (I bought a large tin and you hardly need any if you're giving them 3 coats).
It's been running loads on the drive, dulled down but nothing has burnt off yet, lasted longer than most things i've tried in the past. I don't think it would post easily though?
FFG
portzi said:
As phillpot mike said earlier they need to be sandblasted or the paint can't key properly. Stick the manifold in the oven first before painting!!. The paint will key better if metal is warm. l am sure Andrea won't mind!!!. l did not know it had changed names to POR15 same as the standard anti rust stuff. l had had mine on gore over 2 years now. There has been some minor flaking on the manifolds but the y piece has stayed flake free. The parts which flaked little l rubbed down and reapplied . POR is so runny that it will airbush fine patching up the minor flaking manifolds areas. .
The POR states it dries with moisture so I normally paint it later at night when the humidity is higher so can't see how sticking in an oven would help.I was just going to rub the surface with a wire brush as its not smooth anyway and as long as there is a key it will stick - note how it stick to skin!!
FFG
which POR are you using?
The high temp stuff will not work properly unless you get them blasted first, i've tried it in the past and checked out loads of other people online in the same situation.
I've done them with an angle grinder wire brush so they look completely clean but it still burnt off after about 10 minutes.
The high temp stuff will not work properly unless you get them blasted first, i've tried it in the past and checked out loads of other people online in the same situation.
I've done them with an angle grinder wire brush so they look completely clean but it still burnt off after about 10 minutes.
brett84 said:
which POR are you using?
The high temp stuff will not work properly unless you get them blasted first, i've tried it in the past and checked out loads of other people online in the same situation.
I've done them with an angle grinder wire brush so they look completely clean but it still burnt off after about 10 minutes.
If I have to sandblast them I will. Got a blaster now and some aluminium oxide grit (which came with it) but this may spur me to finally get a compressor.The high temp stuff will not work properly unless you get them blasted first, i've tried it in the past and checked out loads of other people online in the same situation.
I've done them with an angle grinder wire brush so they look completely clean but it still burnt off after about 10 minutes.
I'll get a socket anyway for £4 -thanks Pete.
FFG
FlipFlopGriff said:
Looked at ceramic and its expensive and I've seen varying results after a short space of time.
FFG
I've heard similar and for the price of the ceramic coating, I would prefer some stainless manifolds but it seems a waste not to use the originals. Keep us posted on this one. PeteFFG
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff