Griff stalling
Discussion
dantvrgriff said:
Thanks for all the input.
The heat inside the bonnet of the Griff is mad.
Connected the car to rover Gauge software again and noticed AFM readings of 6% during iddle. According to the great documention from Blitzracing it should be around 35% at iddle. The Throttle Potentiometer shows 5%. I keep getting the fault codes 17 (throttle potentiometer) and 19 (AFM). Any way of checking if the AFM needs replacing ? Also does the ECU reset when you undo the battery ?
Be careful on this - there are two readings- one direct (the 35% 0ne) and the other adjusted to compensate for the very non linear response curve of the AFM output which will show much lower, so check which reading you have.The heat inside the bonnet of the Griff is mad.
Connected the car to rover Gauge software again and noticed AFM readings of 6% during iddle. According to the great documention from Blitzracing it should be around 35% at iddle. The Throttle Potentiometer shows 5%. I keep getting the fault codes 17 (throttle potentiometer) and 19 (AFM). Any way of checking if the AFM needs replacing ? Also does the ECU reset when you undo the battery ?
Did some investigating. When measuring the output of the AFM I begin with a reading of 0.5V and only after 6 to 8 sec it comes down to 0.34 V.
When connecting the Rover Gauge software using direct I get 35% of the AFM reading and 7% on the Throttle Pot reading at idle. The car still stalls occasionally and it is driving me nuts.
What do you suggest me to change first - the AFM or the TP and from where can I buy them for a reasonable price ?
Thanks again
When connecting the Rover Gauge software using direct I get 35% of the AFM reading and 7% on the Throttle Pot reading at idle. The car still stalls occasionally and it is driving me nuts.
What do you suggest me to change first - the AFM or the TP and from where can I buy them for a reasonable price ?
Thanks again
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