Griffith ignition coil tribulations

[andy43]

Alan461 said:

andy43 said:

Good news if it's back to full health
Under bonnet temps are ridiculous - I'm considering removing the precats, maybe the main cat as well, plus fiddling with the bonnet latch to raise the back edge of the bonnet up a few mm.

This seems like a sensible option, it can't harm anything but the bonnet shut line.
Any reason why not?

Fiddled with latch. Literally got 1/8" out of it if that.
And there's no way I'm taking a cordless drill to the back edge of the bonnet - I suspect my attempt would not be quite so neat.

[Alan461]

andy43 said:

Alan461 said:

andy43 said:

Good news if it's back to full health
Under bonnet temps are ridiculous - I'm considering removing the precats, maybe the main cat as well, plus fiddling with the bonnet latch to raise the back edge of the bonnet up a few mm.

This seems like a sensible option, it can't harm anything but the bonnet shut line.
Any reason why not?

Fiddled with latch. Literally got 1/8" out of it if that.
And there's no way I'm taking a cordless drill to the back edge of the bonnet - I suspect my attempt would not be quite so neat.

This much travel puts a 15mm gap across the back edge of the bonnet.
Some adjustment is needed to get the bonnet shut looking ok while leaving some of the gap.
Sorry it's upside down but you get the idea

[blitzracing]

On the heatsink issue- Lucas worked out bolting the amp to a hot dizzy would not cool it, so they changed the amp design and moved it onto a bracket off the engine so it would cool better on the Range / Land-Rover. You can buy a kit to do this on Ebay, but TBH there is absoluty nothing stopping you bolting the amp onto anything that will work as a heat sink- you just have to extend the reluctor wires with screened cable to the amps new position. I had mine bolted to a steel chassis member on the Ginetta for a while and it worked just fine.