Locking Griffith glove box
Discussion
Hi Rob
It has been discussed here, its quite common from my understanding:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
hope that helps
Adam
It has been discussed here, its quite common from my understanding:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
hope that helps
Adam
On the weekend I fitted a fantastic mod that David Beer helped me with.
I have now got a glove box that locks without issue and cannot open without the ignition being on.
I used a £7.99 central locking kit from maplin and a switch from rs components , with an additional 12v relay I found.
It works a treat.
I can post some photos if anyone needs them.
I have now got a glove box that locks without issue and cannot open without the ignition being on.
I used a £7.99 central locking kit from maplin and a switch from rs components , with an additional 12v relay I found.
It works a treat.
I can post some photos if anyone needs them.
robsant said:
On the weekend I fitted a fantastic mod that David Beer helped me with.
I have now got a glove box that locks without issue and cannot open without the ignition being on.
I used a £7.99 central locking kit from maplin and a switch from rs components , with an additional 12v relay I found.
It works a treat.
I can post some photos if anyone needs them.
I'd certainly be very interested in the details, especially as electrics are not my strong point as I can't see it!I have now got a glove box that locks without issue and cannot open without the ignition being on.
I used a £7.99 central locking kit from maplin and a switch from rs components , with an additional 12v relay I found.
It works a treat.
I can post some photos if anyone needs them.
I will try to explain….but I am no wiring expert either, David Beer gave me most of the info on this.
This all sounds much more complex than it is, its just harder to explain that to do I think!
Things needed…….
Central Locking relay kit £7.99 maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/central-door-locking-sys... or similar
Push button switch to replace glove box plastic catch (rs components part number 250-7907 £1.56)
12v dc relay with a normally closed connector on it (so when this relay has power the circuit is open, when it hasn't got power it is closed)
Some spade connectors and some scotch lock connectors to link into the cars wiring.
The glove box will have to be removed to do all of this.
We only need one of the motors from the central locking kit (use one that only has two wires).
I chopped off the other motors wiring looms (but best do this one you have it working on a bench).
The kit requires a live and ground connection (when fitted I used live that was only live when the key was in, so the glove box can’t be opened without the ignition on, David found a live linked to the central locking, which I would have preferred if I could have found it)
The kit also has two wires that when each is connected to ground will either send the motor arm out or in.(the maplin instructions refer to these as the alarm wires I think)
The rs components switch has four connectors on the back (to control two separate circuits).
Two of the connectors you connect to ground and the wire that sends the motor arm out.
The other two connectors have ground in one side and out to the ground on the 12v dc relay. The other side of the relay you connect to the live you are using.
Finally the normally closed part of the relay you connect to ground and to the wire that pulls the motor arm back in.
Connect it all up on a bench and test it.
In theory what should happened is.
1) Push switch in – motor arm goes out
2) Push switch in again (which opens it) – motor arms pulls back in.
The operation in the glove box should work exactly the same when its all fitted, you push up (closes the switch) this extends the motor arm and locks the glove box, push up again and the switch opens (which retracts the motor arm) and unlocks the glove box.
If that all works you now have to fit the motor in the glove box (as per pictures), drill a hole in the back of the glove box for the wires to come out, cut the metal motor arm so when retracted it is flush with the trim of the glove box (as per picture), drill a hole for the motor arm to go into when extended, hide the wires, tidy everything up. A tip from David was to work out where you need to drill a hole, close the glove box, the arm will try to extend, but cant, it leaves a mark in the trim when you can then drill a small hole. I had to make a slightly bigger hole as it didn’t line up.
Good Luck!!!
This all sounds much more complex than it is, its just harder to explain that to do I think!
Things needed…….
Central Locking relay kit £7.99 maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/central-door-locking-sys... or similar
Push button switch to replace glove box plastic catch (rs components part number 250-7907 £1.56)
12v dc relay with a normally closed connector on it (so when this relay has power the circuit is open, when it hasn't got power it is closed)
Some spade connectors and some scotch lock connectors to link into the cars wiring.
The glove box will have to be removed to do all of this.
We only need one of the motors from the central locking kit (use one that only has two wires).
I chopped off the other motors wiring looms (but best do this one you have it working on a bench).
The kit requires a live and ground connection (when fitted I used live that was only live when the key was in, so the glove box can’t be opened without the ignition on, David found a live linked to the central locking, which I would have preferred if I could have found it)
The kit also has two wires that when each is connected to ground will either send the motor arm out or in.(the maplin instructions refer to these as the alarm wires I think)
The rs components switch has four connectors on the back (to control two separate circuits).
Two of the connectors you connect to ground and the wire that sends the motor arm out.
The other two connectors have ground in one side and out to the ground on the 12v dc relay. The other side of the relay you connect to the live you are using.
Finally the normally closed part of the relay you connect to ground and to the wire that pulls the motor arm back in.
Connect it all up on a bench and test it.
In theory what should happened is.
1) Push switch in – motor arm goes out
2) Push switch in again (which opens it) – motor arms pulls back in.
The operation in the glove box should work exactly the same when its all fitted, you push up (closes the switch) this extends the motor arm and locks the glove box, push up again and the switch opens (which retracts the motor arm) and unlocks the glove box.
If that all works you now have to fit the motor in the glove box (as per pictures), drill a hole in the back of the glove box for the wires to come out, cut the metal motor arm so when retracted it is flush with the trim of the glove box (as per picture), drill a hole for the motor arm to go into when extended, hide the wires, tidy everything up. A tip from David was to work out where you need to drill a hole, close the glove box, the arm will try to extend, but cant, it leaves a mark in the trim when you can then drill a small hole. I had to make a slightly bigger hole as it didn’t line up.
Good Luck!!!
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff