Alarm wiring circuit diagram,

Alarm wiring circuit diagram,

Author
Discussion

m.w.todd

Original Poster:

8 posts

187 months

Monday 31st August 2015
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Hi, can anybody help by e.mailing me the alarm/ immob wiring info because its driving me barmy. There is no pattern to the problems i am having trying to start the car. Cranking but no pump prime, now wont crank either, plus no flashing red light now on the steering column. Tapped the fuel and Ecu relays also bashed under and above the dash,pressed the inertia reset button ( i think), cleaned the pump contacts. Took a direct supply off the battery to check the pump and it primed. Alarm sets and unsets ok as does the central locking. My problems seemed to start when i went to start the car with my CTEK trickle charger still switched on ( wifes fault) Batt was right on top charge and car would crank but no pump prime then problems developed as above. Also there seems to be numerous relays available as i will replace these too. Both bosch silver 1" square, 1 x 20amp, 1 x 30 amp any advice on part numbers or suppliers much appreciated. Many thanks for any help

Edited by m.w.todd on Monday 31st August 18:13

nrick

1,866 posts

162 months

Monday 31st August 2015
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Do griffs have the same 100amp fuses as the T cars?

m.w.todd

Original Poster:

8 posts

187 months

Monday 31st August 2015
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yo. down on the starter motor area

Pete Mac

755 posts

136 months

Tuesday 1st September 2015
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I don't suppose you've checked the fuses.....?

I have a Cobra 0802T on my 1995 Griff 500. They don't make them any more but Cobra sell a very similar upgrade. The wiring for mine is as follows:



I don't know what you have but I guess it will be similar in that the Cobra has two immobilisation circuits, usually the fuel pump and the starter.

You will have to take out your dash and the immobiliser is probably behind your glove box.

The starter motor is probably a white and red wire and the fuel pump is probably a yellow wire.

You will probably see a black wire from your immobiliser to one red and white wire and another black wire to another red and white wire. The installer should have broken the circuit. If you put a jumper across the two red and white wires then your starter should crank.

The same applies to the yellow wires. Again if you put a jumper across, the fuel pump should work.

If it is not this and it is not the fuses then you will have to look elsewhere.

Hope this helps you. Pete

m.w.todd

Original Poster:

8 posts

187 months

Tuesday 1st September 2015
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Looks like im in for a long weekend here but im in 2 minds as we have a spot on Auto Leccy 5 mins down the road and i think im in 2 minds as to just let him by-pass everything and install a new system. Thanks for the wiring info and will explore when i loosen the dash as i need it to run to get it there. Will keep all up to date so thanks again for all contributions

m.w.todd

Original Poster:

8 posts

187 months

Tuesday 1st September 2015
quotequote all
All fuses checked Pete, in the fuse box area. Are there any hidden in the alarm itself? Relays all tapped and contacts cleaned but replacements arriving soon as a matter of start at the basics lol. Disconnected all power now to allow a fresh reset hopefully. Thanks

Pete Mac

755 posts

136 months

Wednesday 2nd September 2015
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m.w.todd said:
All fuses checked Pete, in the fuse box area. Are there any hidden in the alarm itself? Relays all tapped and contacts cleaned but replacements arriving soon as a matter of start at the basics lol. Disconnected all power now to allow a fresh reset hopefully. Thanks
I'm not aware of a fuse. My immobiliser connects to the battery directly. A good Auto-leccy sounds like a reasonable plan if you are not confident yourself. The reason I have taken an interest is that I have some problems, basically battery drain. I work abroad month on month off. I leave a battery conditioner on and the car starts brilliantly. Power used to last a month but now it is a matter of days. I suspect it is the old alarm but it could be relays, alternator regulator etc. etc. I've started to pull fuses with no obvious pointers. So I know I am going to have to go through the same process as you, replacing relays etc. etc. Not difficult just time consuming and methodical and you need a multi-meter. I am confident enough to replace the immobiliser with a more modern version, they are only 45 quid or so but again it's time..... Good luck. Pete

Loubaruch

1,164 posts

197 months

Thursday 3rd September 2015
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If your car has the Meta alarm system there are normally three fuses involved.

Two on the bulkhead behind the dash a (5 Amp) for the Alarm/Immobiliser modules and a (15 Amp) for the alarm modules feed to the indicators.

Fuse number 8 (15A)on the fuse/relay panel (marked Alarm/indicators)feeds ignition +12 to the Alarm and Immobiliser.


My car is a 1996 500 and may differ from yours as there are many variations in this area.

I have finally traced the Fuel pump and immobiliser circuits completely and can send you a copy if you fancy tackling the problem yourself, its not that complicated really but the change in wire colours within the loom makes tracing a PITA.

I do not think that your charger connected would have caused your problems.

Best of luck

Edited by Loubaruch on Thursday 3rd September 23:07

Pete Mac

755 posts

136 months

Friday 4th September 2015
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Loubaruch said:
..... its not that complicated really but the change in wire colours within the loom makes tracing a PITA.

I do not think that your charger connected would have caused your problems.


Edited by Loubaruch on Thursday 3rd September 23:07
I agree on both counts. It sounds like you are technically sound. It's just time consuming. Pete