Time for a chassis refurb?

Time for a chassis refurb?

Author
Discussion

Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Monday 2nd November 2015
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Outriggers were done but not too happy with the welding.
After much cleaning and scraping I think this deserves a full body off, the rest of it is covered in waxoil and is a mess.
There are a couple of tiny holes in the chassis rail, one between the left upper wishbone brackets.
Second photo is upside down but you get the idea

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|http://thumbsnap.com/t91mtlpy[/url]

pb450

1,301 posts

159 months

Tuesday 3rd November 2015
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Solid now but ready to rot soon.
If it's a keeper, body off. No brainer!
If you're not doing it yourself budget 6k and 3-4 months.
Final cost depends on exact scope but you'll be in this region by the time you've done all the 'while we're here' jobs.

QBee

20,904 posts

143 months

Tuesday 3rd November 2015
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Two comments:
Sadly it is cheaper to sell yours and buy one already done.....but I too will be refurbing my car, not selling it.
I don't know how you use your car, but when I listed my refurb plans to a friend with an immaculate car, fully refurbed, expecting an enthusiatic response, he warned me to think carefully before starting, because I wouldn't want to use the car once completed. Mine does 10,000 miles a year, driven all year, track days etc....

Oldred_V8S

3,714 posts

237 months

Tuesday 3rd November 2015
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QBee said:
Two comments:
Sadly it is cheaper to sell yours and buy one already done.....but I too will be refurbing my car, not selling it.
I don't know how you use your car, but when I listed my refurb plans to a friend with an immaculate car, fully refurbed, expecting an enthusiatic response, he warned me to think carefully before starting, because I wouldn't want to use the car once completed. Mine does 10,000 miles a year, driven all year, track days etc....
But then you are into the realms of the unknown. Many a good looking car has hidden horrors, better the devil you know. Mine is being done over this winter as it is a keeper.

portzi

2,296 posts

174 months

Tuesday 3rd November 2015
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Oldred_V8S said:
QBee said:
Two comments:
Sadly it is cheaper to sell yours and buy one already done.....but I too will be refurbing my car, not selling it.
I don't know how you use your car, but when I listed my refurb plans to a friend with an immaculate car, fully refurbed, expecting an enthusiatic response, he warned me to think carefully before starting, because I wouldn't want to use the car once completed. Mine does 10,000 miles a year, driven all year, track days etc....
But then you are into the realms of the unknown. Many a good looking car has hidden horrors, better the devil you know. Mine is being done over this winter as it is a keeper.
There is something very personal and a feel good factor about having your P&J refurbished, the excitement of seeing the body lift and all the naked chassis getting stripped down, but once you start getting all the parts refurbed or replaced it a fantastic refurbishment ride and as always spend more than you budgeted for, as at this point there's no point scrimping on cheaper parts, then if your Trevor is a keeper you will know you car literally inside and out!!!

Mark

Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Tuesday 3rd November 2015
quotequote all

Have to be honest, I was looking for a good enough excuse to do this so it's condition is a bonussmile

it's in the workshop now waiting for me to make a start with a view to being back on the road for spring.

magpies

5,129 posts

181 months

Tuesday 3rd November 2015
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Having done mine I would go down the same route again only using a different coating system. If you have the room then the most satisfying way is to basically do it yourself with a little help when needed. Also work out (as best you can) what you are expecting to refurbish when the body is off - brake lines / fuel lines pump and filter / some wiring / extra earth studs? How is the suspension? Any upgrades?.
Have the chassis blasted then decide what needs replacing / repairing and then the difficult decision of what to coat it in - and there is no one correct answer to that.
I'm sure you have already gone over all of the above several times. Keep us posted and lots of photos.

Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Tuesday 3rd November 2015
quotequote all
I feel better about this already, like it's already beginning.
The plan is to get the chassis blasted then paint it myself, not sure what to use, there have been enough threads on this but still undecided, has to be either white or silver&white mix with the wishbones the same.
New dampers all round then go from there, budget might all go on putting straight or have some spare for shiny bitssmile
Has to look new from underneath thats what I'm looking for but with a view to use it and enjoy.
It won't be trashed in the salt and filth as a daily as so many were so should be easy enough to keep tip top

portzi

2,296 posts

174 months

Tuesday 3rd November 2015
quotequote all
magpies said:
Having done mine I would go down the same route again only using a different coating system. If you have the room then the most satisfying way is to basically do it yourself with a little help when needed. Also work out (as best you can) what you are expecting to refurbish when the body is off - brake lines / fuel lines pump and filter / some wiring / extra earth studs? How is the suspension? Any upgrades?.
Have the chassis blasted then decide what needs replacing / repairing and then the difficult decision of what to coat it in - and there is no one correct answer to that.
I'm sure you have already gone over all of the above several times. Keep us posted and lots of photos.
So what coating would have you changed for as went powder coat then expoxy resin over the top and have to say nearly 4 years on it's stayed spotless without the wax oil smile

mperman2

2 posts

99 months

Wednesday 27th January 2016
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Wasn't sure whether to start (yet) another thread on chassis refurb; anyway here's my own under way.
Mines a '96 500HC and the chassis is very good apart from the usual outrigger rot. Here's some before pics.
Rang RT racing to get the low down - seems expensive to me?
Still it's progressing well enough - and it's fun !!
Martin



hillclimbmanic

610 posts

143 months

Thursday 28th January 2016
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I'm in the middle of a complete restoration, and I've just finished the outriggers...I'm sending my chassis to Surface Industries, in Swansea. It's being blasted, hot flame sprayed with aluminium(not zinc, because I live coastal), then powder coated - £600


Manic

andy43

9,548 posts

253 months

Thursday 28th January 2016
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hillclimbmanic said:
hot flame sprayed with aluminium(not zinc, because I live coastal)
Probably a dumb question but why does your postcode affect the choice of coating? smile

pwd95

8,382 posts

237 months

Thursday 28th January 2016
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hillclimbmanic said:
I'm in the middle of a complete restoration, and I've just finished the outriggers...I'm sending my chassis to Surface Industries, in Swansea. It's being blasted, hot flame sprayed with aluminium(not zinc, because I live coastal), then powder coated - £600


Manic
This is exactly what I would do if I ever get round to it. Spoke to these people too last summer. It's a moulten metal spray which should prevent corrosion altogether. No brainer too at that price. yes

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

203 months

Thursday 28th January 2016
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andy43 said:
Probably a dumb question but why does your postcode affect the choice of coating? smile
Salt salt and more salt off the sea.

andy43

9,548 posts

253 months

Thursday 28th January 2016
quotequote all
Barkychoc said:
andy43 said:
Probably a dumb question but why does your postcode affect the choice of coating? smile
Salt salt and more salt off the sea.
Thanks - I didn't realise there was something better out there than zinc spraying.

TVR Beaver

2,867 posts

179 months

Thursday 28th January 2016
quotequote all
if you're painting it yourself, have a look at POR15.
I used it on mine and at the same time painted a bit of rusty tube that lives in the garden... 5 years on my chassis is mint and you just can't shift it from the tube wink

hillclimbmanic

610 posts

143 months

Thursday 28th January 2016
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andy43 said:
Barkychoc said:
andy43 said:
Probably a dumb question but why does your postcode affect the choice of coating? smile
Salt salt and more salt off the sea.
Thanks - I didn't realise there was something better out there than zinc spraying.
Neither did I.!! I asked about zinc, and they recommended aluminium...They do a lot of marine work, so I bowed to their superior knowledge...


Manic

Pete Mac

755 posts

136 months

Friday 29th January 2016
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hillclimbmanic said:
I'm in the middle of a complete restoration, and I've just finished the outriggers...I'm sending my chassis to Surface Industries, in Swansea. It's being blasted, hot flame sprayed with aluminium(not zinc, because I live coastal), then powder coated - £600


Manic
Manic, I'm really surprised at this. I am not a metallurgist however I have posted a number of times on here that I am planning to get my chassis galvanised, which itself is a bit controversial as I have had to drill holes in my chassis. I don’t live by the sea but as far as I am concerned galvanising is the ultimate corrosion resistance although many will say I am going over the top.

I thought that with aluminium there are a number of issues related to corrosion with regard to galvanic reaction (dissimilar metals) and this has caused corrosion on the Jag XJ, where they have used steel rivets through an aluminium body.

When you Google corrosion of galvanised steel against aluminium in a salt water environment, galvanised steel seems to have better corrosion properties than aluminium, in fact it is advised.

I am sure in your case it’s fine as I see you are powder coating the aluminised chassis and I also appreciate Surface Industries are comparing hot zinc spray versus hot aluminium spray, which is not the same thing as galvanising, however…… Pete


andy43

9,548 posts

253 months

Friday 29th January 2016
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That's a good point - I have a BMW that's full of ally suspension bits and apparently it can take ten times as long to access bushes etc compared to the older steel-suspension'd cars as all the bolts holding stuff together are still steel and literally weld themselves in place.
On a TVR chassis as long as the bolt holes are cleared of the thin ally film you'd hope it'd be ok.
Interesting stuff. North sea oil rig builders - get your info right here hehe

TVR Beaver

2,867 posts

179 months

Friday 29th January 2016
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I'd agree with Peter... Its the last day of Land Rover production for the 90 / 110's but going back to when they riveted the rear ali side panels on with steel rivets (sounds like they have done it again on the new Jag!!! do they ever learn?)they would literally behave like a battery... and within months if exposed to water with salt in... would dissolve locally until they fell off eek
I suppose if it's on well and the water / salt can’t get between them it’s okay, but all you'd have to do was expose a joint (like cleaning out a hole?) and it would be off like mad??....
....