Time for a chassis refurb?
Discussion
Outriggers were done but not too happy with the welding.
After much cleaning and scraping I think this deserves a full body off, the rest of it is covered in waxoil and is a mess.
There are a couple of tiny holes in the chassis rail, one between the left upper wishbone brackets.
Second photo is upside down but you get the idea
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/t91mtlpy[/url]
After much cleaning and scraping I think this deserves a full body off, the rest of it is covered in waxoil and is a mess.
There are a couple of tiny holes in the chassis rail, one between the left upper wishbone brackets.
Second photo is upside down but you get the idea
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/t91mtlpy[/url]
Two comments:
Sadly it is cheaper to sell yours and buy one already done.....but I too will be refurbing my car, not selling it.
I don't know how you use your car, but when I listed my refurb plans to a friend with an immaculate car, fully refurbed, expecting an enthusiatic response, he warned me to think carefully before starting, because I wouldn't want to use the car once completed. Mine does 10,000 miles a year, driven all year, track days etc....
Sadly it is cheaper to sell yours and buy one already done.....but I too will be refurbing my car, not selling it.
I don't know how you use your car, but when I listed my refurb plans to a friend with an immaculate car, fully refurbed, expecting an enthusiatic response, he warned me to think carefully before starting, because I wouldn't want to use the car once completed. Mine does 10,000 miles a year, driven all year, track days etc....
QBee said:
Two comments:
Sadly it is cheaper to sell yours and buy one already done.....but I too will be refurbing my car, not selling it.
I don't know how you use your car, but when I listed my refurb plans to a friend with an immaculate car, fully refurbed, expecting an enthusiatic response, he warned me to think carefully before starting, because I wouldn't want to use the car once completed. Mine does 10,000 miles a year, driven all year, track days etc....
But then you are into the realms of the unknown. Many a good looking car has hidden horrors, better the devil you know. Mine is being done over this winter as it is a keeper.Sadly it is cheaper to sell yours and buy one already done.....but I too will be refurbing my car, not selling it.
I don't know how you use your car, but when I listed my refurb plans to a friend with an immaculate car, fully refurbed, expecting an enthusiatic response, he warned me to think carefully before starting, because I wouldn't want to use the car once completed. Mine does 10,000 miles a year, driven all year, track days etc....
Oldred_V8S said:
QBee said:
Two comments:
Sadly it is cheaper to sell yours and buy one already done.....but I too will be refurbing my car, not selling it.
I don't know how you use your car, but when I listed my refurb plans to a friend with an immaculate car, fully refurbed, expecting an enthusiatic response, he warned me to think carefully before starting, because I wouldn't want to use the car once completed. Mine does 10,000 miles a year, driven all year, track days etc....
But then you are into the realms of the unknown. Many a good looking car has hidden horrors, better the devil you know. Mine is being done over this winter as it is a keeper.Sadly it is cheaper to sell yours and buy one already done.....but I too will be refurbing my car, not selling it.
I don't know how you use your car, but when I listed my refurb plans to a friend with an immaculate car, fully refurbed, expecting an enthusiatic response, he warned me to think carefully before starting, because I wouldn't want to use the car once completed. Mine does 10,000 miles a year, driven all year, track days etc....
Mark
Having done mine I would go down the same route again only using a different coating system. If you have the room then the most satisfying way is to basically do it yourself with a little help when needed. Also work out (as best you can) what you are expecting to refurbish when the body is off - brake lines / fuel lines pump and filter / some wiring / extra earth studs? How is the suspension? Any upgrades?.
Have the chassis blasted then decide what needs replacing / repairing and then the difficult decision of what to coat it in - and there is no one correct answer to that.
I'm sure you have already gone over all of the above several times. Keep us posted and lots of photos.
Have the chassis blasted then decide what needs replacing / repairing and then the difficult decision of what to coat it in - and there is no one correct answer to that.
I'm sure you have already gone over all of the above several times. Keep us posted and lots of photos.
I feel better about this already, like it's already beginning.
The plan is to get the chassis blasted then paint it myself, not sure what to use, there have been enough threads on this but still undecided, has to be either white or silver&white mix with the wishbones the same.
New dampers all round then go from there, budget might all go on putting straight or have some spare for shiny bits
Has to look new from underneath thats what I'm looking for but with a view to use it and enjoy.
It won't be trashed in the salt and filth as a daily as so many were so should be easy enough to keep tip top
The plan is to get the chassis blasted then paint it myself, not sure what to use, there have been enough threads on this but still undecided, has to be either white or silver&white mix with the wishbones the same.
New dampers all round then go from there, budget might all go on putting straight or have some spare for shiny bits
Has to look new from underneath thats what I'm looking for but with a view to use it and enjoy.
It won't be trashed in the salt and filth as a daily as so many were so should be easy enough to keep tip top
magpies said:
Having done mine I would go down the same route again only using a different coating system. If you have the room then the most satisfying way is to basically do it yourself with a little help when needed. Also work out (as best you can) what you are expecting to refurbish when the body is off - brake lines / fuel lines pump and filter / some wiring / extra earth studs? How is the suspension? Any upgrades?.
Have the chassis blasted then decide what needs replacing / repairing and then the difficult decision of what to coat it in - and there is no one correct answer to that.
I'm sure you have already gone over all of the above several times. Keep us posted and lots of photos.
So what coating would have you changed for as went powder coat then expoxy resin over the top and have to say nearly 4 years on it's stayed spotless without the wax oil Have the chassis blasted then decide what needs replacing / repairing and then the difficult decision of what to coat it in - and there is no one correct answer to that.
I'm sure you have already gone over all of the above several times. Keep us posted and lots of photos.
Wasn't sure whether to start (yet) another thread on chassis refurb; anyway here's my own under way.
Mines a '96 500HC and the chassis is very good apart from the usual outrigger rot. Here's some before pics.
Rang RT racing to get the low down - seems expensive to me?
Still it's progressing well enough - and it's fun !!
Martin
Mines a '96 500HC and the chassis is very good apart from the usual outrigger rot. Here's some before pics.
Rang RT racing to get the low down - seems expensive to me?
Still it's progressing well enough - and it's fun !!
Martin
hillclimbmanic said:
I'm in the middle of a complete restoration, and I've just finished the outriggers...I'm sending my chassis to Surface Industries, in Swansea. It's being blasted, hot flame sprayed with aluminium(not zinc, because I live coastal), then powder coated - £600
Manic
This is exactly what I would do if I ever get round to it. Spoke to these people too last summer. It's a moulten metal spray which should prevent corrosion altogether. No brainer too at that price. Manic
andy43 said:
Barkychoc said:
andy43 said:
Probably a dumb question but why does your postcode affect the choice of coating?
Salt salt and more salt off the sea.Manic
hillclimbmanic said:
I'm in the middle of a complete restoration, and I've just finished the outriggers...I'm sending my chassis to Surface Industries, in Swansea. It's being blasted, hot flame sprayed with aluminium(not zinc, because I live coastal), then powder coated - £600
Manic
Manic, I'm really surprised at this. I am not a metallurgist however I have posted a number of times on here that I am planning to get my chassis galvanised, which itself is a bit controversial as I have had to drill holes in my chassis. I don’t live by the sea but as far as I am concerned galvanising is the ultimate corrosion resistance although many will say I am going over the top.Manic
I thought that with aluminium there are a number of issues related to corrosion with regard to galvanic reaction (dissimilar metals) and this has caused corrosion on the Jag XJ, where they have used steel rivets through an aluminium body.
When you Google corrosion of galvanised steel against aluminium in a salt water environment, galvanised steel seems to have better corrosion properties than aluminium, in fact it is advised.
I am sure in your case it’s fine as I see you are powder coating the aluminised chassis and I also appreciate Surface Industries are comparing hot zinc spray versus hot aluminium spray, which is not the same thing as galvanising, however…… Pete
That's a good point - I have a BMW that's full of ally suspension bits and apparently it can take ten times as long to access bushes etc compared to the older steel-suspension'd cars as all the bolts holding stuff together are still steel and literally weld themselves in place.
On a TVR chassis as long as the bolt holes are cleared of the thin ally film you'd hope it'd be ok.
Interesting stuff. North sea oil rig builders - get your info right here
On a TVR chassis as long as the bolt holes are cleared of the thin ally film you'd hope it'd be ok.
Interesting stuff. North sea oil rig builders - get your info right here
I'd agree with Peter... Its the last day of Land Rover production for the 90 / 110's but going back to when they riveted the rear ali side panels on with steel rivets (sounds like they have done it again on the new Jag!!! do they ever learn?)they would literally behave like a battery... and within months if exposed to water with salt in... would dissolve locally until they fell off
I suppose if it's on well and the water / salt can’t get between them it’s okay, but all you'd have to do was expose a joint (like cleaning out a hole?) and it would be off like mad??....
....
I suppose if it's on well and the water / salt can’t get between them it’s okay, but all you'd have to do was expose a joint (like cleaning out a hole?) and it would be off like mad??....
....
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff