Rear Number Plate Light Mod
Discussion
Chaps - for the purchase of bulbs from car-mod-shop, if when ordering using these links it says 'out of stock', just type in the product number, i.e. BAZ 15D. Some items are 'out of stock' when sold individually (using the links above), but you can then purchase as a pair! Just ordered mine ... fingers crossed.
HKGriff said:
To answer my own question, no they don't. I now have a pair for sale - one owner, never used!For the number plate I have ended up using two of these panels affixed to the back wall of the recess as the plugs and bulb holder thingy replacement all fit together nicely. It's quite bright now I'll try to tak a pic over the weekend
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-T10-501-BA9S-Car-Wh...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-T10-501-BA9S-Car-Wh...
HKGriff said:
HKGriff said:
To answer my own question, no they don't. I now have a pair for sale - one owner, never used!seaside said:
My guess is that you actually want the white version of your rear fogs .. the BA15S 382 but in white instead of red ...
Anyone know for sure?
You can do, but fog lights must shine red. You've got a red filter, so while it may seem pointless to use a red light, it's not. Anyone know for sure?
Using a white light, of same power, will result in a light which is less bright. This is because the red lens will filter out the whole spectrum of light, leaving only red.
If you have a red light behind the lens, it will appear brighter, as virtually no light from the element will get filtered. LEDs are created in such a way that the light they produce will be coloured, so assuming the same brightness as a white bulb when unfiltered, they will appear brighter in the light cluster, as all of their light is transmitted through the lens, not just a small wavelength after filtering the majority out.
TobyLerone said:
seaside said:
My guess is that you actually want the white version of your rear fogs .. the BA15S 382 but in white instead of red ...
Anyone know for sure?
You can do, but fog lights must shine red. You've got a red filter, so while it may seem pointless to use a red light, it's not. Anyone know for sure?
Using a white light, of same power, will result in a light which is less bright. This is because the red lens will filter out the whole spectrum of light, leaving only red.
If you have a red light behind the lens, it will appear brighter, as virtually no light from the element will get filtered. LEDs are created in such a way that the light they produce will be coloured, so assuming the same brightness as a white bulb when unfiltered, they will appear brighter in the light cluster, as all of their light is transmitted through the lens, not just a small wavelength after filtering the majority out.
mk1fan said:
Yes amber / yellow ones are available. You'll need to swap the relay over too or add a resistor. Easier just to swap the relay. Change the front and side indicator bulbs at the same time.
Relays are abumdantly available on evilbay and I assume the previously linked company too.
Could someone explain this at village idiot level as having done tail, stop and number plate updates, my mate following me on Saturday said the indicators were hard to see. They're quite dim and flash quite slowly such that the cycle between on and off is blurred into the sameRelays are abumdantly available on evilbay and I assume the previously linked company too.
It's the rears mainly obviously but the above suggests I have to do all and swap the relay. Swap it for what and where is it once I have swapped it?
If anyone has done this and can provide ebay type links to the right bulbs and er... relays I would be much obliged.
As per the post a few spaces above, did you fit amber LEDs in the indicators? Did you swap the relay as well? Have you chnaged the front and side indicator bulbs too?
One thing that can cuase issues with swapping to LED is the quality of the wiring loom. Even with rosey rose tinted glasses, the TVR looms are poor.
Is evrything OK with a 'regular' bulb? What if you fit an LED on one side and a regular one on the other?
One thing that can cuase issues with swapping to LED is the quality of the wiring loom. Even with rosey rose tinted glasses, the TVR looms are poor.
Is evrything OK with a 'regular' bulb? What if you fit an LED on one side and a regular one on the other?
Thanks for the reply much appreciated
I haven't changed any of the indicator bulbs yet as the previous talk of relays scared me off
Once I work out which bulbs to buy all round or some kind soul who has done it tells me I'll go for amber LEDs.
My other questions are about the relay you mention - what one and where does it go?
How do you access the bulbs on the fronts and the side repeaters?
here's a pic of my number plate backlit
I haven't changed any of the indicator bulbs yet as the previous talk of relays scared me off
Once I work out which bulbs to buy all round or some kind soul who has done it tells me I'll go for amber LEDs.
My other questions are about the relay you mention - what one and where does it go?
How do you access the bulbs on the fronts and the side repeaters?
here's a pic of my number plate backlit
Stever said:
How do you access the bulbs on the fronts and the side repeaters?
Sides - the lens literally pulls out, and the bulb is inside and easily accessible. No instructions needed. Very easy. I have changed my lens covers to grey (with silver coated orange indicator bulbs), and being a silver car, the contrast is better (in my view) than with orange lenses.Front - haven't got round to replacing the indicator bulbs (and lens cover) on the front yet, but it looks like you have to remove at least one bolt which holds in place (I think) the horn (or part of the alarm siren thingy), to then access the "Challenger Tank Lights". Get underneath and you'll see what I mean. Someone on Griffith FB Group said that you literally give the front of the indicator a little 'shove' and it should come loose so that you can remove it from the back (I guess it may be held in place with silicone). If you get round to doing this before me, please do let me know if this is the correct method!
Thanks Terry
Long bank holiday weekend here coming hope I might get some time to have a look and will certainly post up my experiences.
on your profile pic your car looks fab in sliver, got any more pics you can post up, I love seeing Griffs and what different owners do to add their own personal touches
Long bank holiday weekend here coming hope I might get some time to have a look and will certainly post up my experiences.
on your profile pic your car looks fab in sliver, got any more pics you can post up, I love seeing Griffs and what different owners do to add their own personal touches
If the lights are faulty and you haven't changed anything then there's clearly an issue.
This could be poor wiring, corroded bulb holders/ bases, a faulty relay or a combination of these.
I don't know the Grief / Chimp fuseboard layout. The indicator relay is located [remotely] below the steering wheel in the Wedge and the S but on the fuse board on the T cars (iirc).
You need to check the connections but if all of the indicators are effected then the relay would seem the sensible place to start. Standard indicator relays are pretty cheap so if you can't find a local TVR owner who can lend you one just take your one to the motorfactors and get it matching one.
As for switching to LEDs, it is either a 'CF13' or a 'CF14' relay that is required. just match up the wiring numbers / diagram on the existing relay with the two I have ref'd.
This could be poor wiring, corroded bulb holders/ bases, a faulty relay or a combination of these.
I don't know the Grief / Chimp fuseboard layout. The indicator relay is located [remotely] below the steering wheel in the Wedge and the S but on the fuse board on the T cars (iirc).
You need to check the connections but if all of the indicators are effected then the relay would seem the sensible place to start. Standard indicator relays are pretty cheap so if you can't find a local TVR owner who can lend you one just take your one to the motorfactors and get it matching one.
As for switching to LEDs, it is either a 'CF13' or a 'CF14' relay that is required. just match up the wiring numbers / diagram on the existing relay with the two I have ref'd.
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