Worth saving my Griff?

Worth saving my Griff?

Author
Discussion

Speed 3

4,561 posts

119 months

Thursday 19th May 2016
quotequote all
Hi Saxon, are you still based in Surrey per your profile ? I can help out with a tow car if you want hire a trailer (£50-80 per day) and I'm fairly flexible. Happy to help at cost as long as we're not heading to Scotland !

Local to me are Elmwood who do a full range of TVR work including chassis. Rates not bad for the area and I know they've done deep work on rotten cars.

DaveWesty

75 posts

207 months

Thursday 19th May 2016
quotequote all
You could give Wilton Morgan near Reading a call. They're good guys and not too far away.
http://www.wiltonmorgan.co.uk/


seaside

110 posts

126 months

Thursday 19th May 2016
quotequote all
I can also recommend Topcats in Waddesdon (nr. Aylesbury) for just about anything TVR.
Warren and Charlotte are great people to deal with.

http://www.topcatsracing.com/



saxon

Original Poster:

420 posts

250 months

Thursday 19th May 2016
quotequote all
Thanks everyone - especially Speed3 for the offer of the trailer - I will keep that in mind if I need it.

Right just had a call from Andy Rouse from APM and things are looking better than feared after he got it up on a ramp.

Fuel pump OK - was out of fuel!
Chassis OK, outriggers need doing and will get his chassis man to tidy up the rest of the chassis so outriggers £1500+VAT fitted and then maybe £500 on chassi refurb, maybe take wishbones off for shot blast and repowder coat
He's run the car briefly but needs coollant flush and he will be attempting that with engine in place
2 new front tyres required
Full service required
New battery
All fluids to be replaced including gearbox etc
Replace all brake and fuel lines with braided hoses
Replace brake pads and maybe discs
MOT

Given he comes well thought of on here, seems a fair guy, he's 4 miles from my house and the car is there I've told him to go ahead and get her road legal and MOT'd

He's getting his bodyshop to quote for the respray work.

I will need to organise trimming too. APM use somebody called Rawles motorsport near Alton but there's dave the Trimmer etc and also the option of sending it North to Blackpool etc. When the trimming commences then I can get the dash replaced by London Carriagecraft.

After getting it road legal again one question - respray or trim first?

if any of you have had good trim work done I'd appreciate some ballpark quotes...

Thanks again Saxon

PS I'm not really Surrey anymore - more West Sussex in the Fernhurst direction. I'd have taken it there but I'm guessing their labour rate would be high - anybody know?


GlynMo

1,140 posts

249 months

Thursday 19th May 2016
quotequote all
saxon said:
When the trimming commences then I can get the dash replaced by London Carriagecraft.
Have a look at http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... Pete's dashes are spot-on and have the benefit of an engineered solution to the switches mounting instead of adhesive.

ETA - good news on the rest of the refurb.

Matthew Poxon

5,329 posts

173 months

Thursday 19th May 2016
quotequote all
GlynMo said:
saxon said:
When the trimming commences then I can get the dash replaced by London Carriagecraft.
Have a look at http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... Pete's dashes are spot-on and have the benefit of an engineered solution to the switches mounting instead of adhesive.

ETA - good news on the rest of the refurb.
I agree with the above, nothing against London Carriagecraft as I have seen their dashboards and the quality is excellent as you would expect, but the original TVR design for the dashboard is very poor.

Pete has re-engineered the TVR dashboard and has come up with a really nice solution. Have a look at the below link for more info and make your own mind up, I would personally 100% recommend a Pete Dash if you are looking for a new dash...
https://matthewpoxon.wordpress.com/2015/03/25/new-...

Regarding the respray and the retrim, you mention funds might be a bit tight, just get the car MOT'd and back on the road and drive it this summer, respray and retrim are superficial and can be done whenever.

BJWoods

5,015 posts

284 months

Thursday 19th May 2016
quotequote all
saxon said:
Thanks everyone - especially Speed3 for the offer of the trailer - I will keep that in mind if I need it.

Right just had a call from Andy Rouse from APM and things are looking better than feared after he got it up on a ramp.

Fuel pump OK - was out of fuel!
Chassis OK, outriggers need doing and will get his chassis man to tidy up the rest of the chassis so outriggers £1500+VAT fitted and then maybe £500 on chassi refurb, maybe take wishbones off for shot blast and repowder coat
He's run the car briefly but needs coollant flush and he will be attempting that with engine in place
2 new front tyres required
Full service required
New battery
All fluids to be replaced including gearbox etc
Replace all brake and fuel lines with braided hoses
Replace brake pads and maybe discs
MOT

Given he comes well thought of on here, seems a fair guy, he's 4 miles from my house and the car is there I've told him to go ahead and get her road legal and MOT'd

He's getting his bodyshop to quote for the respray work.

I will need to organise trimming too. APM use somebody called Rawles motorsport near Alton but there's dave the Trimmer etc and also the option of sending it North to Blackpool etc. When the trimming commences then I can get the dash replaced by London Carriagecraft.

After getting it road legal again one question - respray or trim first?

if any of you have had good trim work done I'd appreciate some ballpark quotes...

Thanks again Saxon

PS I'm not really Surrey anymore - more West Sussex in the Fernhurst direction. I'd have taken it there but I'm guessing their labour rate would be high - anybody know?
Sounds like good news!

you don't say how old the tyre are.. (ie the rear ones, even if they have tread)

I'd recommend replace the whole set at once.. definitely for the same make/type. Old rear tyres(hard) with new fronts, might be a bit of a handful..

I replaced my whole set, when the fronts had worn out (I'd previously replaved the rears).. But when I realised the rears were getting on for 9 years old they went as well.

It transformed the car. (just toyos - ~£600 fitted)

gwardman

48 posts

107 months

Thursday 19th May 2016
quotequote all
I cant be more intelligent than all before me on this post, so I will just echo some key points.

Don't sell (unless its a route to another!)...

I'm a bit disappointed that the first quote you received seemed to be a bit stiff - and to quote "beyond economic repair" doesn't make sense for cars that are not made anymore. Others have given the benefit of the doubt, and it might just be his way to start high and then settle back to something that feels more palatable. Still grips me though....

Glad to you have a route to roadworthiness again - that will keep you going. I still have internal trim and an ignition replacement on my list, which will take another 2 years. In the mean time, I am still able to grin!!!

alexcurtis

161 posts

256 months

Monday 23rd May 2016
quotequote all
Hi

So I used central they are only 5 miles from me when some dim chimp drove into the back of me in 2011.

I needed a new rear end grafted on to the back and sprayed up. The finished job is amazing if you really really look then you can see the shut line but only on a sunny day and when your squinting at it HARD I have very recently just done a body lift and had it dangling from the new rear end and no issues at all with the repair!

So I would thoroughly recommend him for body jobs I can not not comment for structural or engineering jobs my only criticism was that he was a slower than I would have liked, but I would use Deff use again.

Just my 2p, but completly agree with drip feed and work on the structural first, outriggers and any other chassis rot first my 1999 was outriggers and one random tube on the top of the main chassis At the end of the block.... Only a TVR

Big Bang is nice but you will get more satisfaction from step by step

Englishman

2,219 posts

210 months

Monday 23rd May 2016
quotequote all
saxon said:
After getting it road legal again one question - respray or trim first?

if any of you have had good trim work done I'd appreciate some ballpark quotes...
Trim first, as bodywork can get accidentally marked.

A full retrim with hood, carpets and everything covered in leather is likely to be £4-5K.

saxon

Original Poster:

420 posts

250 months

Wednesday 8th June 2016
quotequote all
Just an update! I'm off to see the car today as Andy at APM has completed the mechanical work on it and next it's going to have the chassis work done. I plan to try to clean up as much of the interior as possible and just replace the bits that need doing which are:

1. Dash - just placed deposit on a lovely Peter Wiggins one! Will get APM automotive to fit when it comes in at the end of July. While that's being done I will add some rear speakers and have new front speakers fitted and an aux in cable adapter put on my existing Alpine head unit.
2. Recover two seats and possibly the odd bit of magnolia vinyl/ambla on the doors.
3. Replace carpet behind rear drivers seat and make new floor mats. Question: If I cut a small sample of the original carpet off and hawk it around some carpet stores I reckon I should be able to get a very close match to the original green Wilton and can then get the trimmer to make some mats and cut the carpet to fit behind the driver's seat. Is there any reason why this won't work? What backing should I look for on the carpet as I imagine most good quality carpet will be on hessian and I'm unclear if that's suitable for automotive use?
4. I need to clean up the rather grubby magnolia vinyl on the center tunnel and dash. Can anyone recommend the best product for getting the vinyl/ambla really clean??? I've tried Autoglym vinyl and rubber care but to be honest didn't think it was as good as CIF or barkeepers friend!
5. I am getting quotes for respray work and plan to get that done last. APM have recommended their respray guy and I am awaiting aquote from him.
6. APM have a wheel refurb place they use and are getting a quote for that work.

So hopefully the car will be running and road legal within a fortnight so at least usable for the Summer. I'm hoping that Andy has taken a good look for points of water entry to seal them and we've talked about some possible hood mods that might help as well as spraying with the obligatory fabsil. The water is getting in down the sidewall behind the drivers seat so I have my suspicions that it is to do with where the hood joins the bodywork aft of the door opening plunger. I'm going to see what the trimmer thinks too. It's important that the car is as watertight as possible if I'm having all this done even though it will be in a garage from now on...

I've rejoined the TVR car club and am very excited and enthused by seeing her running again! Going to take some pictures tomorrow!

Many many thanks to everyone on here for advice and recommendations - rest assured I will be following up with quotes from your recommended people. The Peter Wiggins dash for example was a brilliant find and I can't wait to see what the car looks, drives and feels like when all this has been done.

saxon




FlipFlopGriff

7,144 posts

247 months

Wednesday 8th June 2016
quotequote all
There should be a triangular piece of rubber on the hood which diverts water to the outside of the car, called an elephants ear. Do you have one on the passenger side? If so make a replica out of bicycle inner tube and stick with contact adhesive.
FFG

saxon

Original Poster:

420 posts

250 months

Wednesday 8th June 2016
quotequote all
Flip flop Griff - I don't have one on either side - in fact the replacement hood which was done by the main agent in Farnham probably ten years ago never had them - just the velcro. For some reason the pas side has never leaked but the drivers side does so I will certainly do as you say and give it a go - it will be great if that cures the problem!! If anyone can take a pic of theirs so I can get the shape right that would be brilliant!!

Many many thanks,

saxon

Matthew Poxon

5,329 posts

173 months

Wednesday 8th June 2016
quotequote all
Morning saxon,

I am very pleased to hear that you have managed to find a way to keep hold of your Griff and great news it will be on the road to enjoy this summer.

Regarding this point, I have used Magic Eraser on mine, looks like a crap shopping channel rip off product but after reading this thread I tried it for myself and it works like a dream:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

4. I need to clean up the rather grubby magnolia vinyl on the center tunnel and dash. Can anyone recommend the best product for getting the vinyl/ambla really clean??? I've tried Autoglym vinyl and rubber care but to be honest didn't think it was as good as CIF or barkeepers friend!

SMB

1,513 posts

266 months

Wednesday 8th June 2016
quotequote all
re cleaning, i find that most leather/vinyl cleaners are about the same, you often use them and wonder why you bothered, until i started using a leather clean brush and way better results.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Swiz%C3%B6l-1043590-Swiss...

worth the few quid, makes a major difference, the brushes get into the grain, then just wipe off.

my250gt

626 posts

219 months

Wednesday 8th June 2016
quotequote all
BJWoods said:
Some of the early Griffs may be disappearing of to the USA soon,
Edited by BJWoods on Monday 16th May 22:10
Why do you say that?

battered

4,088 posts

147 months

Wednesday 8th June 2016
quotequote all
Under US law cars 25+ years old can be imported with fewer restrictions. If they are newer then there are problems with emissions, safety eqpt, etc.

FlipFlopGriff

7,144 posts

247 months

Wednesday 8th June 2016
quotequote all
saxon said:
Flip flop Griff - I don't have one on either side - in fact the replacement hood which was done by the main agent in Farnham probably ten years ago never had them - just the velcro. For some reason the pas side has never leaked but the drivers side does so I will certainly do as you say and give it a go - it will be great if that cures the problem!! If anyone can take a pic of theirs so I can get the shape right that would be brilliant!!

Many many thanks,

saxon
If you drop me a pm i'll send you a template drawing. These may help:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=148...
FFG

Edited by FlipFlopGriff on Wednesday 8th June 14:15

Hoover.

5,988 posts

242 months

Wednesday 8th June 2016
quotequote all
FlipFlopGriff said:
saxon said:
Flip flop Griff - I don't have one on either side - in fact the replacement hood which was done by the main agent in Farnham probably ten years ago never had them - just the velcro. For some reason the pas side has never leaked but the drivers side does so I will certainly do as you say and give it a go - it will be great if that cures the problem!! If anyone can take a pic of theirs so I can get the shape right that would be brilliant!!

Many many thanks,

saxon
If you drop me a pm i'll send you a template drawing. These may help:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=148...
FFG

Edited by FlipFlopGriff on Wednesday 8th June 14:15
or you can spend £36 and buy them..... scratchchin (I think these are what FFG is referring)

http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/v0144-tvr-car-part...



FlipFlopGriff

7,144 posts

247 months

Wednesday 8th June 2016
quotequote all
Hoover. said:
or you can spend £36 and buy them..... scratchchin (I think these are what FFG is referring)

http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/v0144-tvr-car-part...
Plus about £8 P&P, or £2 and 5 minutes to trim some out of an inner tube (and you could do another 50 if you wanted).
Lazy bugger Steve.

The link dont work but I think you're looking at the door cap on the door but hthis is the flexi rubber bit on the mullet to divert the water.
FFG


Edited by FlipFlopGriff on Wednesday 8th June 18:56