Battery and Fusebox relocation - advice please
Discussion
I shall look forward to seeing what you decide on the roll hoop. Also considering one for mine but I do not like the fact with the roof down you cannot see anything out the back through the rear view mirror. I am going to try and get the roof modified so it sits lower to get around that issue.
Tamora seats are very nice, I believe Adrian at Central TVR still has some new ones but like you say at a price. Maybe you should save your money on the seats and invest in that Jenvey ITB system that angus had on his LS3 Tammy.
Tamora seats are very nice, I believe Adrian at Central TVR still has some new ones but like you say at a price. Maybe you should save your money on the seats and invest in that Jenvey ITB system that angus had on his LS3 Tammy.
eff eff said:
OMG 
why did you have to go and show me those .............more money!!!!!
Have a listen to this induction noise! why did you have to go and show me those .............more money!!!!!https://youtu.be/zfoeKPltyNM
Angus's LS3 Tammy:
You know you want to!
Matthew Poxon said:
TV8 said:
Hi Matt, does the Griff have the alcove type space behind the passenger seat? I have seen a couple of Chims where the existing loom is un-taped and the fuse boxed moved to the cubby hole. No extensions required to the fuse box wiring and then move the battery where you want.
Hi Graham, yes I had considered that before I saw the VT automotive solution. You are right quite a lot of work involved in putting it in the boot I think. I did find this on Google which looks like a neat solution. Only issue for me would be already being fat b
d I am not sure I would want more weight on the drivers side of the car.
carsy said:
Here you go Matthew. Just need to brush up on your glassing skills.
A couple more;
That does look good Ian, many thanks for digging those out, very kind of you.A couple more;
The only thing I would be concerned about with that approach is the Chim and Griff differ in that area, the griff has the 'whale tail' centre console with bolts underneath at both far corners. With a chim you can box that area in happily as there is no whale tail and continuous carpet. With the Griff you still need access under the whale tail to undo the screws to lift that section out for maintenance. I am not sure how you could modify that to still allow access. The Red top 40 is much taller as well.
My glassing skills are nonexistent for the record!
Matthew Poxon said:
I shall look forward to seeing what you decide on the roll hoop. Also considering one for mine but I do not like the fact with the roof down you cannot see anything out the back through the rear view mirror. I am going to try and get the roof modified so it sits lower to get around that issue.
matthew, the roll hoop does obstruct rear view with the mirror on its standard mount but you can just move the mount and mirror down a bit and then you can see again. that what I had to do.Hi Matthew,
on the battery I have a lithium ion one. Its the equivalent of a varley red top 25 in terms of power and always starts the car. I actually imported it from the USA (cant remember where though it was a couple of years ago now) - it was loads cheaper. My battery only weighs 1.9kg!
With Li-ion you have to be very careful not to let them discharge. If they do they are scrap and its an expensive mistake.
on the battery I have a lithium ion one. Its the equivalent of a varley red top 25 in terms of power and always starts the car. I actually imported it from the USA (cant remember where though it was a couple of years ago now) - it was loads cheaper. My battery only weighs 1.9kg!
With Li-ion you have to be very careful not to let them discharge. If they do they are scrap and its an expensive mistake.
Nice one Jess, I will look into moving the mirror down a bit. Thanks for the tip.
I think Lithium batteries are the way forward, and especially for a car like yours. I don't think the tech is quite there yet for road cars and like you say they do not very well with parasitic drains and are useless if they go completely flat. If you look at the lithium tech in phones it is progressing very fast on a yearly basis. Graphene batteries are apparently the next big thing.
I see you are doing well in the Speed championship, I look forward to the updates in Sprint to see what how you Howard and Rob are doing. Looks like a change of underwear might have been in order with that recent tank slapper. I enjoy the in car videos as well so keep on posting those
I think Lithium batteries are the way forward, and especially for a car like yours. I don't think the tech is quite there yet for road cars and like you say they do not very well with parasitic drains and are useless if they go completely flat. If you look at the lithium tech in phones it is progressing very fast on a yearly basis. Graphene batteries are apparently the next big thing.
I see you are doing well in the Speed championship, I look forward to the updates in Sprint to see what how you Howard and Rob are doing. Looks like a change of underwear might have been in order with that recent tank slapper. I enjoy the in car videos as well so keep on posting those
Battery technology is indeed progressing at an amazing pace, the problem is none of this development is being directed towards the specific demands of a starter battery. Drive type batteries yes, mobile phone & PC batteries definitely, but the high amp demands of cranking are not really any part of modern battery development because vehicles that need an engine starting type battery are the past not the future.
Consequently as it stands there's still nothing better for our needs than a good old lead acid battery, the best of which are AGM technology designed for vehicles with stop start technology which places a lot more demand on the battery. These stop start suitable AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) or EFB (Enhanced Flooded Battery) batteries are still lead acid technology so the old rules of lead acid battery selection still very much apply.
Simply buy the biggest & heaviest battery you can fit and you'll be buying the battery that copes with cranking duties and parasitic drains best, you can't beat the basic rules of chemistry and physics!
Look at VARTA’s Silver Dynamic AGM and Blue Dynamic EFB batteries, or Exide’s Start-Stop AGM battery range and remember the bigger the better and the heavier (for the same footprint) the better too.
But if you want the very best money can buy you need to choose the Odyssey brand, the PC1500 being the biggest and heaviest model that fits a Chimaera/Griffith. Odyssey batteries are designed to bridge the gap between cranking & deep cycle performance, while of the AGM type they do this not by offering any kind of super new innovative technology but simply by giving you a traditional lead acid battery that's made better using better materials (pure lead plates not a cheaper lead alloy ect ect).
A PC1500 measures 275.59mm x 171.7mm x 198.6mm and weighs a whopping 22.4kg, compare this weight with any other battery of the same size and it'll tell you everything you need to know
With lead acid batteries you can't beat the basic rules of chemistry and physics!
Consequently as it stands there's still nothing better for our needs than a good old lead acid battery, the best of which are AGM technology designed for vehicles with stop start technology which places a lot more demand on the battery. These stop start suitable AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) or EFB (Enhanced Flooded Battery) batteries are still lead acid technology so the old rules of lead acid battery selection still very much apply.
Simply buy the biggest & heaviest battery you can fit and you'll be buying the battery that copes with cranking duties and parasitic drains best, you can't beat the basic rules of chemistry and physics!
Look at VARTA’s Silver Dynamic AGM and Blue Dynamic EFB batteries, or Exide’s Start-Stop AGM battery range and remember the bigger the better and the heavier (for the same footprint) the better too.
But if you want the very best money can buy you need to choose the Odyssey brand, the PC1500 being the biggest and heaviest model that fits a Chimaera/Griffith. Odyssey batteries are designed to bridge the gap between cranking & deep cycle performance, while of the AGM type they do this not by offering any kind of super new innovative technology but simply by giving you a traditional lead acid battery that's made better using better materials (pure lead plates not a cheaper lead alloy ect ect).
A PC1500 measures 275.59mm x 171.7mm x 198.6mm and weighs a whopping 22.4kg, compare this weight with any other battery of the same size and it'll tell you everything you need to know
With lead acid batteries you can't beat the basic rules of chemistry and physics!
ChimpOnGas said:
But if you want the very best money can buy you need to choose the Odyssey brand, the PC1500 being the biggest and heaviest model that fits a Chimaera/Griffith. Odyssey batteries are designed to bridge the gap between cranking & deep cycle performance, while of the AGM type they do this not by offering any kind of super new innovative technology but simply by giving you a traditional lead acid battery that's made better using better materials (pure lead plates not a cheaper lead alloy ect ect).
A PC1500 measures 275.59mm x 171.7mm x 198.6mm and weighs a whopping 22.4kg, compare this weight with any other battery of the same size and it'll tell you everything you need to know
I was almost disappointed that I did't hear from your earlier on CoG. I know from doing some research on here you have gone for an all out solution using the PC1500 and remote control battery brain. Very nice solution.A PC1500 measures 275.59mm x 171.7mm x 198.6mm and weighs a whopping 22.4kg, compare this weight with any other battery of the same size and it'll tell you everything you need to know
If I had a Chim I would be tempted to do the same as you have the luxury or more footwell space, however the footwell space in the Griff is truly woeful.
A question for you if I may...
You say Odyssey is the best money can buy, I would tend to agree with you based on research. What about Varley however? If you look at the specs of the battery I am looking at then the Varley Red Top 25 is superior to the Odyssey PC680 and has a smaller footprint, or have I missed something here? I am looking at two of these in parallel as per Eff Eff's design.
Odyssey PC680 Single
AH Value 16Ah
CCA 170
Length 184mm
Depth 79mm
Height 191mm
Weight 7KG
Varley Red Top 25 Single
AH Value 20Ah
CCA 230
Length 181mm
Depth 77mm
Height 167mm
Weight 7KG
Odyssey PC680 Double
AH Value 32Ah
CCA 340
Weight 14KG
Varley Red Top 25 Double
AH Value 40Ah
CCA 460
Weight 14KG
I've messed around with battery relocation in the past and it's nice to see new ideas being tried. I had an Odyssey PC680 in mine for 4 years and was very impressed with it until it was just out of warranty... (I had the cylinder liner issue and the battery didn't like cranking an engine with two cylinders full of steam!) The only problem with it was that the parasitic losses meant that after 5 days of standing the car wouldn't start. (The up side is that it did make me trace all the parasitic losses and fix loads of electrical stuff!) I got it to 7 days of standby in the end. I was using the car for work 3 days a week so it wasn't a problem most of the time.
I swapped the fuseboard for a much smaller one that used micro fuses and micro relays with only the very high current circuits using large relays instead of all the standard size items. This meant it was much more compact and let me fit it and the Odyssey battery in the footwell and give another 5" of legroom. This was enough additional space for me to sit in the passenger side when the car's owner wanted to drive it. (Apparently I have to let her drive it sometimes) If I were doing the work again, I would be tempted with putting two small batteries in the recess behind the seats and moving the fuseboard down a bit to aid access.
I had my Jaguar rear ended a couple of months ago (I had been stationary waiting to turn at a junction for significant time and someone failed to see me) and after that I would never ever think about putting a battery in the boot of a Griff. The Jag stood up to the impact well, but was picked up by the other car as it hit. This would have destroyed the back of my Griff including the petrol tank. I know Jaguar put the fuel tank and the battery in the boot, but the fuel tank is a lot further forward than I thought - it's over the rear wheels rather than being behind them in an area with little to no structure as in the Griff.
I swapped the fuseboard for a much smaller one that used micro fuses and micro relays with only the very high current circuits using large relays instead of all the standard size items. This meant it was much more compact and let me fit it and the Odyssey battery in the footwell and give another 5" of legroom. This was enough additional space for me to sit in the passenger side when the car's owner wanted to drive it. (Apparently I have to let her drive it sometimes) If I were doing the work again, I would be tempted with putting two small batteries in the recess behind the seats and moving the fuseboard down a bit to aid access.
I had my Jaguar rear ended a couple of months ago (I had been stationary waiting to turn at a junction for significant time and someone failed to see me) and after that I would never ever think about putting a battery in the boot of a Griff. The Jag stood up to the impact well, but was picked up by the other car as it hit. This would have destroyed the back of my Griff including the petrol tank. I know Jaguar put the fuel tank and the battery in the boot, but the fuel tank is a lot further forward than I thought - it's over the rear wheels rather than being behind them in an area with little to no structure as in the Griff.
dnb said:
I've messed around with battery relocation in the past and it's nice to see new ideas being tried. I had an Odyssey PC680 in mine for 4 years and was very impressed with it until it was just out of warranty... (I had the cylinder liner issue and the battery didn't like cranking an engine with two cylinders full of steam!) The only problem with it was that the parasitic losses meant that after 5 days of standing the car wouldn't start. (The up side is that it did make me trace all the parasitic losses and fix loads of electrical stuff!) I got it to 7 days of standby in the end. I was using the car for work 3 days a week so it wasn't a problem most of the time.
I swapped the fuseboard for a much smaller one that used micro fuses and micro relays with only the very high current circuits using large relays instead of all the standard size items. This meant it was much more compact and let me fit it and the Odyssey battery in the footwell and give another 5" of legroom. This was enough additional space for me to sit in the passenger side when the car's owner wanted to drive it. (Apparently I have to let her drive it sometimes) If I were doing the work again, I would be tempted with putting two small batteries in the recess behind the seats and moving the fuseboard down a bit to aid access.
7 days on a single PC680 is very good when you consider the AH value compared to the standard type 72 battery. Good to hear of your experience with Odyssey. Did you manage to recover the battery after it went flat or did you need to buy a new one? I swapped the fuseboard for a much smaller one that used micro fuses and micro relays with only the very high current circuits using large relays instead of all the standard size items. This meant it was much more compact and let me fit it and the Odyssey battery in the footwell and give another 5" of legroom. This was enough additional space for me to sit in the passenger side when the car's owner wanted to drive it. (Apparently I have to let her drive it sometimes) If I were doing the work again, I would be tempted with putting two small batteries in the recess behind the seats and moving the fuseboard down a bit to aid access.
I am very interested in your micro fuse box and Odyssey setup in the footwell, do you have any pics? Sounds like a great setup.
Odyssey batteries don't do well if completely discharged, that happened to the first pair I had. I have an Accumate in the boot but I was
away from the car and it wasn't plugged in. I tried to recover them with the Accumate trickle charge but they wouldn't take a charge.
Matthew this would hold a Varley Red Top 25 you would just have to take 25mm of the side bars and redrill and tap them
away from the car and it wasn't plugged in. I tried to recover them with the Accumate trickle charge but they wouldn't take a charge.
Matthew this would hold a Varley Red Top 25 you would just have to take 25mm of the side bars and redrill and tap them
eff eff said:
Odyssey batteries don't do well if completely discharged, that happened to the first pair I had. I have an Accumate in the boot but I was
away from the car and it wasn't plugged in. I tried to recover them with the Accumate trickle charge but they wouldn't take a charge.
Matthew this would hold a Varley Red Top 25 you would just have to take 25mm of the side bars and redrill and tap them
I am still torn between Varley and Odyssey. I am swaying towards Varley purely based on the specs but I think Odyssey have a better name for themselves.away from the car and it wasn't plugged in. I tried to recover them with the Accumate trickle charge but they wouldn't take a charge.
Matthew this would hold a Varley Red Top 25 you would just have to take 25mm of the side bars and redrill and tap them
I m struggling to source those billet mounts at a sensible price. They are working out around $320 for a pair by the time postage and import duty are included.
I don't mind paying for a quality product but that does seem steep.I am currently looking at the official hold down kit from Odyssey which has a larger foot print but will still fit.... just!
I take it you've seen this thread Matthew?
barreti pc925 install
Personally I don't like the idea of the battery anywhere near the fuel tank and this gives more leg room that side than even I need at 6ft 1in
barreti pc925 install
Personally I don't like the idea of the battery anywhere near the fuel tank and this gives more leg room that side than even I need at 6ft 1in
Matthew Poxon said:
I am still torn between Varley and Odyssey. I am swaying towards Varley purely based on the specs but I think Odyssey have a better name for themselves.
I m struggling to source those billet mounts at a sensible price. They are working out around $320 for a pair by the time postage and import duty are included. I don't mind paying for a quality product but that does seem steep.
I am currently looking at the official hold down kit from Odyssey which has a larger foot print but will still fit.... just!
There's not a lot of room behind the seat, the top hold down plate seems to stick out a long way and may foul and damage the seat back if the seat is pushed right back and reclined. A carpet cover should prevent that though or maybe modify the front fixing. I m struggling to source those billet mounts at a sensible price. They are working out around $320 for a pair by the time postage and import duty are included.
I don't mind paying for a quality product but that does seem steep.I am currently looking at the official hold down kit from Odyssey which has a larger foot print but will still fit.... just!
Barreti said:
I take it you've seen this thread Matthew?
barreti pc925 install
Personally I don't like the idea of the battery anywhere near the fuel tank and this gives more leg room that side than even I need at 6ft 1in
Don't forget that many production cars have the battery in the boot/rear area.barreti pc925 install
Personally I don't like the idea of the battery anywhere near the fuel tank and this gives more leg room that side than even I need at 6ft 1in
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff