Refreshing the HT setup but keeping it 'standard'

Refreshing the HT setup but keeping it 'standard'

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Discussion

Barreti

Original Poster:

6,680 posts

237 months

Thursday 22nd September 2016
quotequote all
Hi chaps,

After chasing a stalling and then non-starting issue I think I finally tracked it down to a knackered fuel relay and an HT problem.
To get to the point I am now I've removed my Moroso leads and stuck on a set of Magnacours I had in the parts bin because I found plug lead #4 didn't want to stay on the extender and the car seems to have stopped stalling and is running sweetly again, if a bit rich which I believe is a case of TADS with a pre-cat isn't it?

So its time to refresh the HT side I think, but I don't really want to be forever tinkering with a laptop or anything of the sort so I'd prefer to keep it at least 'relatively' standard.

I've swapped the dizzy cap and ignition amp but can't get the ruddy rotor arm off. Does anyone have any tips for easing that damned thing off?

What are the latest thoughts on extenders and plugs? I've just put in a new set of B7ECS but I'm happy to replace them if necessary.

And is it worth binning the extenders and putting in the fireproof lead protectors instead?

If you've bought stuff recently please let me know where from and I'll love you for ever for saving me the searching time.

No fighting now. Everyone play nice !

Ta.
IanB

Bluebottle

3,498 posts

240 months

Thursday 22nd September 2016
quotequote all
to get the rotor arm off i use an electrical screwdriver in the slot at the bottom of the rotor arm and in onto the top of the spindle/shaft to hold it down. This is only retained with a poxy plastic split ring and they are often missing or broken, which mean the shaft lifts with the rotor arm and disassembles the advance bob weights and takes ages to put it back together.

Argent

478 posts

241 months

Thursday 22nd September 2016
quotequote all
OK I am going to stick my neck out here. I know that extenders are not popular atm, probably because of a flood of inferior products imho, but I bought set of from ACT six years ago and they have been perfect. I also run standard plugs and get a good colour. I agree with Blitzacing about leads and think that standard (I use Bosch Rangy/Disco) leads are fine for normal/fast road use.

A

Colin RedGriff

2,527 posts

257 months

Thursday 22nd September 2016
quotequote all
Hi Ian

I was in the US last year and picked up a set of the ceramic ended HT leads. When the engine was rebuilt last month they were fitted and so far have been great. They seem very well made, the only downside is they are pretty heavy so shipping from the US might be pricey.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/9002C/10002/-1

Barreti

Original Poster:

6,680 posts

237 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for the help chaps.

Bluebottle, I've read about the issue of pulling the guts out of the dizzy if you're heavy handed getting a stuck rotor arm off. Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a go.

Colin, those leads look great and I think I've found a source who imports them into the UK so now I'm in a quandry - keep it simple as Argent says or go mad and get these leads plus socks etc.
Hmmm

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

159 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
quotequote all
Ian,

As you know, 430 here as well, had some problems with an misfire when hot, the plugs were changed some time ago to EIX' (which are better) new leads (Bosch) coil (Bosch) but still this problem.....I've now ditched the extenders for socks and heat covers for the leads > problem is gone....

Frank

Bluebottle

3,498 posts

240 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
quotequote all
bluezeeland said:
Ian,

As you know, 430 here as well, had some problems with an misfire when hot, the plugs were changed some time ago to EIX' (which are better) new leads (Bosch) coil (Bosch) but still this problem.....I've now ditched the extenders for socks and heat covers for the leads > problem is gone....

Frank
If you ditch the resistive extenders, you'll need to switch to resistive spark plugs wont you?

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

159 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
quotequote all
Bluebottle said:
bluezeeland said:
Ian,

As you know, 430 here as well, had some problems with an misfire when hot, the plugs were changed some time ago to EIX' (which are better) new leads (Bosch) coil (Bosch) but still this problem.....I've now ditched the extenders for socks and heat covers for the leads > problem is gone....

Frank
If you ditch the resistive extenders, you'll need to switch to resistive spark plugs wont you?
They are NGK BPR, R as in resistor (google NGK codes explained....)btw it isn't one or the other (plugs/extenders/leads) but all need to be resistive, otherwise your radio receipt would be distorted (on the off-chance it is ever on....biggrin )

simonwedge

743 posts

180 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
quotequote all
Bluebottle said:
bluezeeland said:
Ian,

As you know, 430 here as well, had some problems with an misfire when hot, the plugs were changed some time ago to EIX' (which are better) new leads (Bosch) coil (Bosch) but still this problem.....I've now ditched the extenders for socks and heat covers for the leads > problem is gone....

Frank
If you ditch the resistive extenders, you'll need to switch to resistive spark plugs wont you?
Yes. In fact I recently changed my leads and it turns out the new ones aren't as resistive as the old ones. My rev counter is now a bit 'flickery' as a result so I'll be trying a switch to resistive plugs to see if it cures the situation.

Barreti

Original Poster:

6,680 posts

237 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
quotequote all
What do you mean by "heat covers for the leads" Frank?

Simon, which leads did you switch to so I don't fall into the same trap?

Argent

478 posts

241 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
quotequote all
Probably worth mentioning that I am using the the Bosch leads (and coil) with extenders that have no resistance, the leads offer enough suppression without needing resistive plugs. So I guess if you can't get a reliable set of extenders it's just a case of replacing them with socks like many have done.

My way of looking at is that the system is working well, if I ever get a serious failure or something that becomes a bug*#er to sort out I would problem get Powers Performance to put in their well reported system.

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

159 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
quotequote all
Barreti said:
What do you mean by "heat covers for the leads" Frank?

Simon, which leads did you switch to so I don't fall into the same trap?
Hi Ian, these ;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062YYMW/ref=o...

in all honesty, a set of these ;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MVPIAI/ref=o...

(which I've got also) will do the job, just on there own.....

Power do these socks also, have a look...

grtz

Frank





FlipFlopGriff

7,144 posts

247 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
quotequote all
Ian,
I changed the plugs to BPR6ES as the old ones (7's) were always black and the 6's the colour is about right (rusty brown). I put these on the leads before I crimped the ends on and then added the vulcan boots (they were the highest temp rating I could see) :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230789047534?_trksid=p20...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VULCAN-LAVA-PROTECTOR-SL...
Extenders gone (plugs are resistive - the R means they are) and all has been well since fitting (about 9 months ago now).
FFG

simonwedge

743 posts

180 months

Saturday 24th September 2016
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Barreti said:
Simon, which leads did you switch to so I don't fall into the same trap?
The new ones were from Powerspark.

bomb

3,692 posts

284 months

Saturday 24th September 2016
quotequote all
Barreti said:
Some stuff, and then........ is it worth binning the extenders and putting in the fireproof lead protectors instead?
Yes its worth it.


I had rough running which was traced to the extenders breaking down, ( and they were not very old). I fitted the silver heat wrap and then the socks on top. Running fine now. - Radio reception is poor so must need to change the plugs to resistive ones.

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Sunday 25th September 2016
quotequote all
You normally only need one resistve "element" in the system- typically this would be a set of carbon cored OEM HT leads but you would certainly need extra resistance with the likes of Magnecore reds with restive plugs or extenders. The TVR is so basic electronically that the worse a "noisy" HT system will do is upset the radio, so there is no point in adding too much resistance in the system on top of OEM leads, as it does strangle the spark if you push it too far.

ESDavey

700 posts

219 months

Monday 26th September 2016
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Ditch the lot & get Dom to install the MBE upgrade. I decided my Griffith was a keeper so worth the investment. It really is the best upgrade I've done.

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

159 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
ESDavey said:
Ditch the lot & get Dom to install the MBE upgrade. I decided my Griffith was a keeper so worth the investment. It really is the best upgrade I've done.
Yep, would really like that !

Barreti

Original Poster:

6,680 posts

237 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
ESDavey said:
Ditch the lot & get Dom to install the MBE upgrade. I decided my Griffith was a keeper so worth the investment. It really is the best upgrade I've done.
Not a frigging chance guys.
I work with computers every day so the last thing I want to do is get a computer any where near my car, or feel I might need to.
I'll accept the foibles of the traditional HT setup - for now.

davep

1,143 posts

284 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
Barreti said:
... the last thing I want to do is get a computer any where near my car ...
Barreti, sorry but there's one in the passenger footwell! wink