Garage heating
Discussion
^^ this. Far more effective. Reduce the amount of water, and the temperature and the corrosion process slows right down. Heat is fine if its even and consistent , but if you have a warm air and cold metal you will get condensation as any moisture drops out of the atmosphere. Really bad with gas heaters as they produce lots of water vapour.
Like anything electrical they are not cheap to run. I run the dehumidifier when the weather is obviously damp but not when it is frosty and dry. When I am using it I leave it on day and night. You can buy cheap humidity gauges which will give you a rough idea as to what is going on. A good indication of humidity is to leave a piece of sandpaper on the bench, high humidity will soon render it sticky and useless.
Probably the best start to improving the garage enviroment is to draught proof it first.
Probably the best start to improving the garage enviroment is to draught proof it first.
I have a detached garage built without a cavity wall and found the discs on my Cerb would show surface rust within a matter of weeks.
As mentioned earlier in this thread, fit draught excluders where ever possible, this helps no end however the problem for me was still there.
I chose the desiccant type dehumidifier as they are supposed to work at lower temps, I leave mine on permanently throughout the winter, it has an auto setting but I've found it very rarely operating in 'economy' mode.
The internal container fills up within a day or two so I've plumbed it into a 50L container, on average it removes 25L/week.
As mentioned earlier in this thread, fit draught excluders where ever possible, this helps no end however the problem for me was still there.
I chose the desiccant type dehumidifier as they are supposed to work at lower temps, I leave mine on permanently throughout the winter, it has an auto setting but I've found it very rarely operating in 'economy' mode.
The internal container fills up within a day or two so I've plumbed it into a 50L container, on average it removes 25L/week.
Insulation is the key.
Living at 1000ft on the Pennines the climate is very damp. I created a workshop within a modern portal barn, i.e. a cattle barn. As said above condensation is the biggest enemy of classic cars. After a cold spell if the air warms up suddenly even by a few degrees cold metal will attract moisture as condensation. In the main barn, steel car bodies can literally run with water when the temperature changes.
By contrast the workshop walls are lined with 2" insulation board covered with 10mm shuttering ply and the lowered ceiling is of fibre board plus insulation and a 6" air gap to ply boarding above. This slows down any sudden temperature change and entirely prevents condensation. A small dehumidifier reduces any longer term humidity. This maintains the workshop temperature 4-6C above the main barn. The real test of humidity is a Lathe bed, they will rust at the slightest provocation and in 10 years this has never happened. A 2kW fan heater soon warms the workshop if needed.
Reducing draughts is mentioned above, OK to keep the place warmer, but draughts in an uninsulted garage will help to dry out condensation on any wet steel etc.
Living at 1000ft on the Pennines the climate is very damp. I created a workshop within a modern portal barn, i.e. a cattle barn. As said above condensation is the biggest enemy of classic cars. After a cold spell if the air warms up suddenly even by a few degrees cold metal will attract moisture as condensation. In the main barn, steel car bodies can literally run with water when the temperature changes.
By contrast the workshop walls are lined with 2" insulation board covered with 10mm shuttering ply and the lowered ceiling is of fibre board plus insulation and a 6" air gap to ply boarding above. This slows down any sudden temperature change and entirely prevents condensation. A small dehumidifier reduces any longer term humidity. This maintains the workshop temperature 4-6C above the main barn. The real test of humidity is a Lathe bed, they will rust at the slightest provocation and in 10 years this has never happened. A 2kW fan heater soon warms the workshop if needed.
Reducing draughts is mentioned above, OK to keep the place warmer, but draughts in an uninsulted garage will help to dry out condensation on any wet steel etc.
G5FTH said:
Thanks for the replies.
I'll look at a dehumidifier, tube heater and insulating the loft.
If you have a recommendation for the dehumidifier feel free to share it.
I like the idea of the one mentioned that you can select the moisture in the air.
Cheers.
I used to use a carcoon in my previous detached garage. The disc brakes never tarnished what ever the season was outside I'll look at a dehumidifier, tube heater and insulating the loft.
If you have a recommendation for the dehumidifier feel free to share it.
I like the idea of the one mentioned that you can select the moisture in the air.
Cheers.
G5FTH, I bought a dessicant dehumidifier which are generally cheaper than the compressor varieties.
I suggest you do a bit of Googling as the choice is enormous. I bought from Amazon but eBay would also be worth a look.
Worth making sure that a drain can be attached as emptying everyday can be a pain.
http://www.dehumidifier-reviews.co.uk/
Lots of other reviews on Google.
I suggest you do a bit of Googling as the choice is enormous. I bought from Amazon but eBay would also be worth a look.
Worth making sure that a drain can be attached as emptying everyday can be a pain.
http://www.dehumidifier-reviews.co.uk/
Lots of other reviews on Google.
Surely it all depends on what you are trying to do. If you are wanting to preserve your beloved then I have heard good things about the Carcoon and they are not that expensive and a bit more focussed than a dehumidifier.
If you are trying to preserve your little fingers as you fettle your beloved over the winter months, then you probably need a damn good heater. I use a 3kw fan heater and I do have an insulated garage, to be honest you only need to take the edge off and a boiler suit helps. You can buy insulated boiler suits used in colder climes. Pete
If you are trying to preserve your little fingers as you fettle your beloved over the winter months, then you probably need a damn good heater. I use a 3kw fan heater and I do have an insulated garage, to be honest you only need to take the edge off and a boiler suit helps. You can buy insulated boiler suits used in colder climes. Pete
Edited by Pete Mac on Friday 25th November 09:03
Off course a low temperature is not going to do any harm, so the lowest cost option is simply to spray all exposed metal with a maintenance spray- (except the disks obviously). This stuff works a treat as when it dries off it leaves a waxy residue that does not flash off like WD40 and the like and it washes off easily with a bit of engine cleaner.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Double-TT-Maintenance-Spr...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Double-TT-Maintenance-Spr...
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