window driver's door clattering

[gerjo]

noticed recently that the window of my driver's door (that's the left door in my case) seems to clatter against something metal (within the door) when I throw the door shut with the top down (with the top up the window hits the rubber on the targa so no problem).

anything I can do about it?

[tvr4ever]

Take out the speaker. Have someone with a small arm undo all the hidden nuts and bolts. Then inspect the guide rail. It helps to have a girlfriend with a small/thin arm. When there's no girlfriend available use child or any person with thin and or small arm .. LOL

Fred

[angusfaldo]

There's a rubber guide in the metal rail that has a habit of getting sticky so when the window goes down it drags the rubber with it and in the end it can actually come all the way out. You can see if this has happened by dropping the window all the way and then inspecting the guide from the top of the door. If you can't see the rubber then it has probably droppped. When it has gone, the only thing supporting the window is the metal rail hence the rattle.

If you need new guide rubber you can get it from Dave Batty. It can be put in without dismantling the door by running it into the metal guide with some washing up liquid for lubrication.

[RichB]

I had exactly this problem myself and did this a few weeks ago, a bit fiddly but cured the problem. I was able to re-feed the rubber back into the ali' guide rail from inside the door. Rich...

>> Edited by RichB on Thursday 10th July 09:22

[GreenV8S]

On the V8S the top of the rear slide is screwed to the door by a small screw at the top of the door (open the door and look at the end). This tends to work loose over time, allowing the slide to rattle about. Best tighten it up before it drops out altogether.

[RichB]

Oh yes that's true. But on the griff it is bolted inside the door onto a bolt bonded up inside the door edge. It was also loose on mine and for some reason I removed the nut (why did I do that), 5 spacer washers promptly fell out inside the door. Needless to say I could only manage to manipulate 4 back in! Rich...

[Ballistic Banana]

RichB said:

I had exactly this problem myself and did this a few weeks ago, a bit fiddly but cured the problem. I was able to re-feed the rubber back into the ali' guide rail from inside the door. Rich... >> Edited by RichB on Thursday 10th July 09:22

Done exactly the same, apply a bit of grease before hand to help slide it in Oh er i think the worst bit is feeding the last inch or two back down the guide as you are doing this with the window still in the guide but wound all the way down.

BB

[gerjo]

thanks guys, I'll try this

[GreenV8S]

Grease may not be such a good idea? It makes the rubber swell up, and may lead to slow/sticking windows. You can get rubber lube, which would probably be a better bet?

[Ballistic Banana]

Silicon Grease/gel works a treat can get it in spray can with straw.
Use this at work on Rubber Insulated Tubes that are slid over aliminum Wires( electricity) to provuide temp Insulation. Belive me it works all year round.

BB

[gerjo]

I had a look yesterday. The rubber in the aluminium rail looks o.k. The clattering seems to come from the far end of the door where the window seems to touch something metal inside the door (at the outer side).
When I compare it with the other door, the window can move back and forth much more, so I guess I have to adjust something to hold it more in place.

any ideas?

[rhodri_harris]

Hi Gerjo

I've just fixed what sounds like the same fault on my Griff. If you take of the door trim nad peela away the plastic sheet inner (if it's still there at all!!:-) you should be able to see the rear, top bolt assembly (this is the one that Peter Humphries/GreenV8s was talking about I think). With the window fully would up you should be able to reach it to see if its loose. Mine had nearly fallen out!! There should also be some packing washers under this bolt to align the frame correctly. This is what was causing the rattles on mine.

To adjust the slack the bolt that holds the 'drop bar' of the window front runner to the door needs to be adjusted (that's the bolt about 1/4 door length back from the front of the door. The easiest way I found of doing this was to wind the window down 1/2 way, slacken the bolt, readjust and tighten. This process might need some fiddling with!!

Hope that's fairly clear

Cheers

Rod

[gerjo]

rhodri_harris said:

If you take of the door trim nad peela away the plastic sheet inner

Wow, this sounds a bit complicated, have never done something like this. How do I remove the door trim? Is it hard to put it back? The plastic sheet sounds important against rain etc. I guess this should be put back carefully?

[rhodri_harris]

Hi

All details in the bible, but, in summary (from how it is on my Griff 500):

take off the reflector at the rear of the door panel and remove hidden screw
remove ashtray and take out screw (if you have an ashtray, I don't)
remove speaker
feel inside door for 3 nuts: 1 in front of speaker, and 2 to rear holding armrest to door (one of these bolts is quite a long way back. I think these are 10mm
if memory serves the armrest section should lift off after the connector for the fag lighter and mirror switch is unplugged

the carpeted section must now be unscrewed, I cant remember how many screws exactly but around about 8 I think. These can be tricky to find but just look for where the panel does not move from the door frame.

Once this is off there should be a plastic sheet masticed to the door frame this can be partially peeled back (from the bottom) and if you keep all of this fairly dust free, it should go back ok.

Now you should be able to reach all the window stuff easily. All this lot looks tricky, but takes about 10 mins, hardest bit is finding the nuts and screws the first time.

Hope this helps

Rod

[gerjo]

thanks Rhodri, I'll give it a try

[RichB]

rhodri_harris said:

All details in the bible, but, in summary (from how it is on my Griff 500): take off the reflector at the rear of the door panel and remove hidden screw etc.

Absolutly correct Rod, I did this myself about a fortnight ago. I think I had 4 x nuts not 3 but whatever. Complete job took about 45 mins. One point Gerjo - be carfull with the packing washers at the top of the alloy guide where it bolted to the door assembly. I removed mine and all the washes fell out! They are a bugger to get back aligned in place to re-bolt it together. In fact if it's not loose don't fissle with it. Rich...

>> Edited by RichB on Thursday 17th July 13:38