Tools For The Job?

[griff430]

The hood on my Griffith is starting to lift away from the bodywork below the back window, because the fixings are working loose. I understand TVR used several different methods to secure the hood to the body. Mine uses the method of three vertical threaded bolts (one either side, and one in the centre), all of which are accessible from the boot. The trouble is, I haven't found a spanner/socket combination to be able to re-tighten them, and as I can't actually see what I'm trying to tighten, I can only guess at the sizes of spanner/socket I should be using.

Is anyone able to shed any more light on the subject?

Thanks,

Dan.

[Rolfe]

Hi Dan,

I currently have a similar issue. What I can tell you is they are 10mm on my 92 Griff. As yet I have not found a good way to undo them but I intend to have a go this weekend if its cooler. I have been advised that it is very common for the 10mm stud to break loose from its fibre glass mounting so watch out for that as it will just turn. One of mine is already missing! Looking on my mates Chim they have just passed a single bolt through the back hoop which is very sensible as it allows the nuts to be simply done up from the inside of the car so mine will certainly be going back with that mod.
Dave

[vestas]

I have just done the job in order to replace my roof material.

you need a 10mm extended socket avaiable from Halfords for a few quid. You also need a torch and a bendy back but it can be done.

My bolts broke away from the fibreglass so I took the opportunity to replace them with slightly longer flat headed bolts and held them in place through the material when tightening the nuts.

[griff430]

Thanks for the tips. Hopefully I'll be able to have a look at the weekend. How is the roof material secured/adjusted, because I seem to have excess material showing, which means my back window never goes tight.

Dan.

[Rolfe]

Its glued!

[griff430]

Ah, maybe the glue's come unstuck on mine too? That would certainly explain some excess material. What's the best glue to use to re-stick it?

Dan.

[Rolfe]

Dan, You need a high temperature adhesive. Vestas and I used a Dunlop glue . I think it was 1358 reference and it is hard to find. Do not be tempted to use Evostick as it will soften in the heat of the day.
Dave

[griff430]

OK, thanks for the advice. How long does it take to get the hood adjusted correctly, and more to the point, is it easy to c*ck it up? I've got the car booked in for a service in September, and I was wondering if it's just easier to get Dave Batty to do the job?

Dan.

[Rolfe]

Dan,

See rear hoop posting. I managed to get all the screws out by sawing them off but I now need to replace them which is not as easy as it seems. Once I am over this it would appear to be straight forward. By the way if you are going out to have it done you may be better at an upholstery specialist as most TVR dealerships seem to subcontract this type of work

[griff430]

Yeah, I know Dave Batty sub contracts this kind of work out, but I don't know of a good 'trimmer' round here, so he's my only choice at the moment. Don't suppose anyone's got any numbers for a decent one in the Hampshire area?

Dan.

[spend]

Bit late, but I was given advice years ago from a restorer to take care with studs. You can if possible hold the nut and screw in another nut to clean the thread (a little oil helps). Put yet another nut on the end of the stud and loosen up the first one to lock onto this. Having locked these then release the 'real' nut. This works particularly well on studs glassed in - which are a PITA when they break. You can try permutations of this depending on the force on the nut (this also works if the stud spins freely).

Hope this helps someone, sometime... its saved my bacon several times.

Dave

[Rolfe]

As you say its a bit late now but its great advise for the future. This stud thing on the rear hoop has been a real problem - I think its the first time ever I have not been offered a solution on this web site! I reckon I have now overcomed the problem by ignoring the original stud positions and drilling some new fixing points at 90 deegrees to them through the rear hoop. I have then fixed the hoop with some large M8 stainless mushroom head screws. It seems to have been a great solution and the beauty is that they are easy to access if ever I need to remove the hoop without danaging the cover.All thats left now is to fit the new hood!!!