Body lift started
Discussion
Colin RedGriff said:
Bit of an update - haven't been spending much time in the garage recently but got out there tonight.
outrigger chassis rail
centre traingulation plates - before cleaning
Rear body mounting point - prior to cleaning
Rear triangulation plate - prior to cleaning
Nearside is now pretty much ready for painting, chassis rails in pretty good nick just some light surface rust that i've sanded/wire brushed off. Even the traingualtion plates are pretty good.
These are mostly cleaned up now just need to get into the corners to finish them off.
Wishbones will be sent off for shotblasting and powder coating.
Thats a tidy chassis you have there outrigger chassis rail
centre traingulation plates - before cleaning
Rear body mounting point - prior to cleaning
Rear triangulation plate - prior to cleaning
Nearside is now pretty much ready for painting, chassis rails in pretty good nick just some light surface rust that i've sanded/wire brushed off. Even the traingualtion plates are pretty good.
These are mostly cleaned up now just need to get into the corners to finish them off.
Wishbones will be sent off for shotblasting and powder coating.
bet your well pleased 
Colin RedGriff said:
In the first picture the threaded sleeve set in the rail nearest the camera is the seatbelt fixing for the lap part of the belt. Further back on top of the chassis rail is the rear body mounting point. The seatbelt reel mounts to the rear mounting plate.
That's different to my pre-cat Colin and I had heard they'd moved the lapbelt chassis mount and made it sleeved. I don't have that sleeved bit, just the triangular plate welded above the chassis outrigger tube which in your case is now a body mounting bolt.Interesting.
A bit of advice if you haven't already started painting Colin.
Enlarge the corner drainage holes if you possibly can. All 4 of my front and rear outside corners have rusted through, and I'm convinced its because the drainage holes are piddly little things not big enough to even get a screwdriver through so they got blocked by a stone and it was all downhill from there.
My new ones will have drainage holes like Moose did on his - big enough to get my finger through.
Enlarge the corner drainage holes if you possibly can. All 4 of my front and rear outside corners have rusted through, and I'm convinced its because the drainage holes are piddly little things not big enough to even get a screwdriver through so they got blocked by a stone and it was all downhill from there.
My new ones will have drainage holes like Moose did on his - big enough to get my finger through.
Hmm while the holes are not huge I could get my finger in there so maybe the later ones are a bit bigger. I'll take a look - not started painting yet.
Back to the mounting point. I had a quick check last night and the mounting point nearest to the back of the outrigger doesn't have a bolt hole to match up with it so doesn't appear to be used for anything.....
When I was removing the mounting bolts I followed Rob's guide on TGP and it matched up with what I had in terms of where they were and number.
Back to the mounting point. I had a quick check last night and the mounting point nearest to the back of the outrigger doesn't have a bolt hole to match up with it so doesn't appear to be used for anything.....
When I was removing the mounting bolts I followed Rob's guide on TGP and it matched up with what I had in terms of where they were and number.
I think it's a throwback to bygone (pre-cat 
) days. Probably left so that one chassis could be used for current production and previous cars in for repair?Yes they are Colin. I don't know if it makes any difference though and can't see or think why they might have moved it.
I'll get a photograph of mine this afternoon and post it later. Glad to hear they figured out the holes needed to be a bit bigger than a gnats todger.
I'll get a photograph of mine this afternoon and post it later. Glad to hear they figured out the holes needed to be a bit bigger than a gnats todger.
Edited by Barreti on Thursday 12th February 13:03
Spent the day in the garage today, stripped the offside suspension, removed all the bushes and started to strip off the poweder coat on the offside outrigger. Similar story to the nearside, some surface rust and flaky poweder coat but underneath the tubes are in good condition. Finish cleaning off the outriggers tomorrow ready for painting hopefully.
I painted mine yesterday and today Colin.
A few words of wisdom for you.
When you use the metal etch stuff have some clean water and a towel to hand. It burns when you get it on your hands and face so you'll need to wash them. And for the same reasons wear goggles or glasses throughout the whole process.
POR15 is horrible when it gets on you, so get yourself a CSI type paper suit and rubber gloves. Also take a trip to the garage and get a handful of the plastic gloves they supply for ponces who don't like getting diesel on their paws
The rubber gloves keep the paint of your hands, the plastic gloves are so you can swap them regularly so you don't get completely covered. Either that or you'll use loads of rubber gloves and they are difficult to take off without touching your wrists.
I used about a dozen pairs of plastic gloves and two pairs of rubber gloves. And I'm still covered in the ruddy stuff.
Wear a face mast if you have one to keep the flicked paint off your face.
Don't shave, it makes it easier to get the paint off if you have stubble to shave off.
Don't believe the 3-5 hours drying time it says on the POR15 tin. Mine was dry enough for the second coat in 2-3 hrs, although I had a small electric fan heater running in the garage.
You'll get drips, it can't be helped. Cardboard on the floor is good, POR15 wipes off it easily and what you don't wipe off soaks in quickly.
I used a file to take off the worst drips before I used Blackcote today.
Blackcote is difficult to use because a) you're painting black on black & b) it doesn't go on very well but runs like hell. So keep revisiting where you've been to catch the runs and drips.
That's all mate. Just a few hints
Have fun.
Perhaps we should get POR15 T-shirts made. "I painted with POR15" - with the shirt covered in black blobs and smears!
A few words of wisdom for you.
When you use the metal etch stuff have some clean water and a towel to hand. It burns when you get it on your hands and face so you'll need to wash them. And for the same reasons wear goggles or glasses throughout the whole process.
POR15 is horrible when it gets on you, so get yourself a CSI type paper suit and rubber gloves. Also take a trip to the garage and get a handful of the plastic gloves they supply for ponces who don't like getting diesel on their paws
The rubber gloves keep the paint of your hands, the plastic gloves are so you can swap them regularly so you don't get completely covered. Either that or you'll use loads of rubber gloves and they are difficult to take off without touching your wrists.
I used about a dozen pairs of plastic gloves and two pairs of rubber gloves. And I'm still covered in the ruddy stuff.
Wear a face mast if you have one to keep the flicked paint off your face.
Don't shave, it makes it easier to get the paint off if you have stubble to shave off.
Don't believe the 3-5 hours drying time it says on the POR15 tin. Mine was dry enough for the second coat in 2-3 hrs, although I had a small electric fan heater running in the garage.
You'll get drips, it can't be helped. Cardboard on the floor is good, POR15 wipes off it easily and what you don't wipe off soaks in quickly.
I used a file to take off the worst drips before I used Blackcote today.
Blackcote is difficult to use because a) you're painting black on black & b) it doesn't go on very well but runs like hell. So keep revisiting where you've been to catch the runs and drips.
That's all mate. Just a few hints
Have fun.
Perhaps we should get POR15 T-shirts made. "I painted with POR15" - with the shirt covered in black blobs and smears!
I made the mistake of not wearing gloves the first time I used POR15. It comes off your skin while fresh, but if you start to let it dry it is virtually impossible to remove completely with any solvent I could find. It took literally weeks to wear off - mind you, that's good news for the chassis.
Barreti said:
I painted mine yesterday and today Colin.
A few words of wisdom for you.
When you use the metal etch stuff have some clean water and a towel to hand. It burns when you get it on your hands and face so you'll need to wash them. And for the same reasons wear goggles or glasses throughout the whole process.
POR15 is horrible when it gets on you, so get yourself a CSI type paper suit and rubber gloves. Also take a trip to the garage and get a handful of the plastic gloves they supply for ponces who don't like getting diesel on their paws
The rubber gloves keep the paint of your hands, the plastic gloves are so you can swap them regularly so you don't get completely covered. Either that or you'll use loads of rubber gloves and they are difficult to take off without touching your wrists.
I used about a dozen pairs of plastic gloves and two pairs of rubber gloves. And I'm still covered in the ruddy stuff.
Wear a face mast if you have one to keep the flicked paint off your face.
Don't shave, it makes it easier to get the paint off if you have stubble to shave off.
Don't believe the 3-5 hours drying time it says on the POR15 tin. Mine was dry enough for the second coat in 2-3 hrs, although I had a small electric fan heater running in the garage.
You'll get drips, it can't be helped. Cardboard on the floor is good, POR15 wipes off it easily and what you don't wipe off soaks in quickly.
I used a file to take off the worst drips before I used Blackcote today.
Blackcote is difficult to use because a) you're painting black on black & b) it doesn't go on very well but runs like hell. So keep revisiting where you've been to catch the runs and drips.
That's all mate. Just a few hints
Have fun.
Perhaps we should get POR15 T-shirts made. "I painted with POR15" - with the shirt covered in black blobs and smears!
Thanks Ian - I'll bear those in mind.A few words of wisdom for you.
When you use the metal etch stuff have some clean water and a towel to hand. It burns when you get it on your hands and face so you'll need to wash them. And for the same reasons wear goggles or glasses throughout the whole process.
POR15 is horrible when it gets on you, so get yourself a CSI type paper suit and rubber gloves. Also take a trip to the garage and get a handful of the plastic gloves they supply for ponces who don't like getting diesel on their paws
The rubber gloves keep the paint of your hands, the plastic gloves are so you can swap them regularly so you don't get completely covered. Either that or you'll use loads of rubber gloves and they are difficult to take off without touching your wrists.
I used about a dozen pairs of plastic gloves and two pairs of rubber gloves. And I'm still covered in the ruddy stuff.
Wear a face mast if you have one to keep the flicked paint off your face.
Don't shave, it makes it easier to get the paint off if you have stubble to shave off.
Don't believe the 3-5 hours drying time it says on the POR15 tin. Mine was dry enough for the second coat in 2-3 hrs, although I had a small electric fan heater running in the garage.
You'll get drips, it can't be helped. Cardboard on the floor is good, POR15 wipes off it easily and what you don't wipe off soaks in quickly.
I used a file to take off the worst drips before I used Blackcote today.
Blackcote is difficult to use because a) you're painting black on black & b) it doesn't go on very well but runs like hell. So keep revisiting where you've been to catch the runs and drips.
That's all mate. Just a few hints
Have fun.
Perhaps we should get POR15 T-shirts made. "I painted with POR15" - with the shirt covered in black blobs and smears!
Like the t-shirt idea....
Englishman said:
I made the mistake of not wearing gloves the first time I used POR15. It comes off your skin while fresh, but if you start to let it dry it is virtually impossible to remove completely with any solvent I could find. It took literally weeks to wear off - mind you, that's good news for the chassis.
Yep,been there got the 
T SHIRT 
that was over two years ago now and should have known better,still next time when the fingers wear through on my disposable gloves i will change them instead of pressing on,got it on my forearms too 
Edited by That Daddy on Sunday 22 February 20:31
Been a bit slow recently - the outriggers are stripped and ready for repainting.
Managed to source a rear wishbone without a seized toe-in adjuster. All the wishbones were dropped off yesterday for stripping, zinc priming and powder coating.
Planning to paint the outriggers this weekend and then should be ready to start reassembly when the wishbones are back next week. New poly bushes all round and new shocks/springs ready to fit.
Then geometry set up, and some
Managed to source a rear wishbone without a seized toe-in adjuster. All the wishbones were dropped off yesterday for stripping, zinc priming and powder coating.
Planning to paint the outriggers this weekend and then should be ready to start reassembly when the wishbones are back next week. New poly bushes all round and new shocks/springs ready to fit.
Then geometry set up, and some
t at the top then it's far easier to do them with the body raised a fraction Yes - I was watching the thread on diff bushes - I have new bushes but judging by the amount of swearing on that thread about the back bush I might drop them off with the car when the geometry is done.
Might have a look at the bushes and see if I'm feeling up to it.
edited to translate to english
Might have a look at the bushes and see if I'm feeling up to it.
edited to translate to english
Edited by Colin RedGriff on Thursday 5th March 21:58
Work, DIY, family stuff and general laziness has been holding up the progress on the refit but getting there slowly.
Body is back on the chassis and bolted up apart from the bolts in the footwells and the seatbelts. Going to leave those until I can roll the car out of the garage and open the doors properly.
Wishbones all stripped, zinc primed and powder coated.
Bushes all replaced. Rear suspension reassembled complete withi new shocks and springs.
Completed one of the front corners this evening with Clive's stainless heat shields. One corner to go.
Then
front and rear arbs to put back on
reconnect steering uj and bolt rack down
front chasis bolts and earths
wheels back on
bolts in footwells
refit seat belts
refit seats and central console
replace rad and refill plus reconnect other bits disconnected in engine bay
replace battery
Then it's off for annual service, mot and full geometry set up.
Light at the end of the tunnel...
Body is back on the chassis and bolted up apart from the bolts in the footwells and the seatbelts. Going to leave those until I can roll the car out of the garage and open the doors properly.
Wishbones all stripped, zinc primed and powder coated.
Bushes all replaced. Rear suspension reassembled complete withi new shocks and springs.
Completed one of the front corners this evening with Clive's stainless heat shields. One corner to go.
Then
front and rear arbs to put back on
reconnect steering uj and bolt rack down
front chasis bolts and earths
wheels back on
bolts in footwells
refit seat belts
refit seats and central console
replace rad and refill plus reconnect other bits disconnected in engine bay
replace battery
Then it's off for annual service, mot and full geometry set up.
Light at the end of the tunnel...
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