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FWDRacer
2,869 posts
94 months
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That looks fantastic-the car is a credit to your skills and workmanship.... and keep the updates coming. 
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Cooperman
3,832 posts
120 months
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Might I remind you that you will need to fit a sealed metal plate to cover the hole in the bulkhead behind the carburettor. That is a serious fire risk and scrutineers here are very strict about it.
The car looks great and is a real credit to you.
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Skyedriver
4,220 posts
152 months
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LHD?
Rust free foreign shell?
Loks very tidy under the bonnet, is the removable slam panel legit for historics?
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camelotr
523 posts
38 months
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Thanks for the kind words.
Cooperman: it is a good idea. Although our scrutineers will accept this, its better to stay on the safe side. Ia m gratefull for any ideas. I am a beginner at race cars.
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camelotr
523 posts
38 months
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Skyedriver said: LHD?
Rust free foreign shell?
Loks very tidy under the bonnet, is the removable slam panel legit for historics? The car will compete in Hungary. Our scrutineers will accept the removable slam panel. As we must remove the bonnet lock and use only safety catches, its of no use. Rust free? Now, but not realy when we started.  
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Cooperman
3,832 posts
120 months
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camelotr said: Thanks for the kind words.
Cooperman: it is a good idea. Although our scrutineers will accept this, its better to stay on the safe side. Ia m gratefull for any ideas. I am a beginner at race cars.
It is wise to make sure the entire engine bay is fireprooofed from the interior. Also the gap around the end of the rear seat back panel into the boot area should also be sealed against fire and any holes in the back shelf fitted with cover plates to keep the fuel tank area fully separate from the interior.
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camelotr
523 posts
38 months
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The rear compartment is sealed already. I mainly used 1mm thick alloy plates. It is also obligatory to have an onboard fire extinguisher system from this year.
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FWDRacer
2,869 posts
94 months
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Front and rear bulkheads for competition - seal with fire proof sealant/putty. Now I've seen what you started with and the condition of the metalwork in your shell I'm even more impressed. Heroic stuff.
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Cooperman
3,832 posts
120 months
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That really is a top job you've done there. Well done!
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camelotr
523 posts
38 months
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Many thanks again for the kind words.
Although it was not a "heroic deed", but rather a necessity. I had this shell sitting in my garden for years. It was far too rusty to restore. Now that we decided to build a Team, and race a Mini in our historic league this car offered itself for the purpose. By the way it was once a Mini 1000 Auto (see the tunnel).
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camelotr
523 posts
38 months
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camelotr
523 posts
38 months
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camelotr
523 posts
38 months
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Sorry for the big pictures. I dont know how to reduce them  .
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fatpasty
1,560 posts
36 months
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Looking very good at the moment...
Loving the look of the switch and fuse boxes.
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camelotr
523 posts
38 months
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Are there any evidence of BMC using modified "adjustable" brake limiting valve? I belive that theese items were around in the 60s, or am I wrong?
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camelotr
523 posts
38 months
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  Our car is on the road.
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fatpasty
1,560 posts
36 months
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Very Nice ... Nice colour 
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camelotr
523 posts
38 months
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I am looking for a 2.5 degree nagative bottom arm set.
Anybody?
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guru_1071
2,337 posts
104 months
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camelotr said: I am looking for a 2.5 degree nagative bottom arm set.
Anybody? i like your reverse lock out - a very useful thing - anyone who says they havent chelped a race mini into reverse when going for forth hasnt tried hard enough! for your 2.5 arms can you not fit adjustable ones, set then and then dab then with weld so they are 'fixed'
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camelotr
523 posts
38 months
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Thanks for Your kind words.
We are trying to be as legal as possible. And the bottom arm is on the homologation sheet either with photos and with cast number.
I am trying to source an old 2.5 degree arm if possible.
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