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Twink1598
Original Poster
19 posts
17 months
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I'm hoping someone can help! I'm attempting to replace an SPi automatic engine/transmission with an earlier carb unit. I intend to transfer the injection and ignition gubbins from the old unit for emission purposes, but the old engine has a crank position sensor on the torque converter end, which obviously the replacement engine does not have. It does appear to have the facility for a sensor at the crank pulley, can I use this? and if so what parts do I need.
Hopefully somebody here is more conversant with the injection set up than an old traditionalist like me and can assist, many thanks in advance.
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Extra 300 Driver
5,170 posts
115 months
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Dont forget a new pedal box too
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Twink1598
Original Poster
19 posts
17 months
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I remembered the pedal box, gear remote and cylinders, but it's getting the smoke to stay in the wires thats my problem! Things have moved on a bit since I cut my teeth on Minis.
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guru_1071
2,328 posts
103 months
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Twink1598 said: I'm hoping someone can help! I'm attempting to replace an SPi automatic engine/transmission with an earlier carb unit. I intend to transfer the injection and ignition gubbins from the old unit for emission purposes, but the old engine has a crank position sensor on the torque converter end, which obviously the replacement engine does not have. It does appear to have the facility for a sensor at the crank pulley, can I use this? and if so what parts do I need.
Hopefully somebody here is more conversant with the injection set up than an old traditionalist like me and can assist, many thanks in advance. the facility you have noticed at the timing chain end is not for a crank sensor, it allowed a special tool to be attached to help with the tuning at the factory (in metros i think) the manual spi engine has a crank sensor located just under the starter, its bolted through a small hole that only appears on the spi engines (and some very late carb motors, in which case its covered by a small plate). the flywheel is unique o the injection cars in that it has the reluctor ring attached to it. if you have no 'small hole' then you will need the spi end case, a flywheel with the reluctor ring and the crank sensor (the blue one from you auto motor will do, its the same item. you will also need a manual ecu, as the auto one has a different map, though this will cause (more) problems if your car has an alarm / imobiliser (though these can be got around...)
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Twink1598
Original Poster
19 posts
17 months
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Thank you, that's exactly what I needed. I have checked my replacement engine, which fortunately has the sensor mounting drillings.
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Twink1598
Original Poster
19 posts
17 months
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We have now completed the conversion, thanks to previous advice, and the car is running. It is still on the original automatic ecu, which I believe is causing the lazy pick up from idle.
I purchaed a Cooper SPi ecu from a well known auction site, but it has two input plugs instead of the single one on the existing ecu, and needless to say the engine does not want to play with it installed. Is there more than one type of ecu for this engine or have i been sold a pup?
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guru_1071
2,328 posts
103 months
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there are several sorts,
the twin plug are the early ones, the later ones are single plug.
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Twink1598
Original Poster
19 posts
17 months
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Thank you, once again, back to ebay I suppose.
Anyone out there in need of an early ecu? I seem to have one spare!
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Miniholic
93 posts
107 months
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There are different single plug ECUs too, so make sure you don't get a coded one as this won't work without the matching alarm ECU and remote fob. I think the uncoded Cooper SPi one is MNE101070 (coded being MNE101170) but I don't have the details here with me. If you're feeling wealthy you could always go for the specialist components mappable unit though. 
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Twink1598
Original Poster
19 posts
17 months
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Thanks for all the assistance. The car is now running much better on its new ECU. Pick up from idle is still pretty poor, if the thottle is opened too fast, ie when attempting heel & toe down changes, but I guess this is due to a problem elsewhere, which will no doubt become apparent with more investigation.
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guru_1071
2,328 posts
103 months
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it may be worth getting the car put on a code reader, clear the faults, run it for a week (or even just round the block) and see if anything else shows up. spis often show an inlet air temp fault which will make them run funny, you can clear the fault and it wont appear for ages again - if it comes straight back again you need to swop the sensor (or whatever).
people will claim you can 'train' the ecus and clear faults and do all sorts of fancy things by switching the ignition on and off and furiously pressing the throttle pedal whilst rubbing your belly, buts its a load of rubbish. certain actions will, on certain year cars 'trick' the ecu to finding a 'calibration' point, but not often!
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