Mini City 1293
Discussion
I recently called over to a mates house who, by trade is a panel beater sprayer and he was working on a mini himself. However, dropped into the bay was a Metro Turbo lump. I've seen it since the bodywork was done and the car goes like a rocket.
I think the 1275 will suffice though keep up the good work. Reminds me of my old cooper back in 74
I think the 1275 will suffice though keep up the good work. Reminds me of my old cooper back in 74
The other problem with worn timing chains is that because the A series has not got a chain tensioner, the chain is free to flap around (which is one of the reason old A Series often sound rattly). As it flaps around the cam and ignition timing is more or less randomly advanced and retarded (know as spark scatter for the igntion) and this can really hurt power.
It has to be said though, the one on my 850 was pretty terminal, it was hanging off the sprockets like a tired bit of knicker elastic
It has to be said though, the one on my 850 was pretty terminal, it was hanging off the sprockets like a tired bit of knicker elastic
Mr2Mike said:
If you have an A+ engine than you can also retain the tensioner when you fit the duplex gear, giving you a very quiet, long lasting setup.
Its a Leyland Mini
I did an insurance quote for the Mini, fully comp from Liverpool Victoria, all modifications declared. The end quote was £1072.26 not half bad at all!
Yeh the engine at the moment is completely standard as with gearbox, however I have 2 red trumpet air horns (MOT passable?) ready to fit and go on! I was thinking of putting a new fibreglass bonnet on and cutting a few triangles or circles on the front and mounting mesh behind, but... nothin much is under the bonnet! I think the best way to go with the 850 breathing is to leave the standard air filter on, I've heard so many problems with people who have trouble with their engines after fitting K & N filters and other non-standard filters. It may look the part but sometimes can end in performace decrease, and I don't want to start fiddling around with setting up carb needles!
Another thing is its on drum brakes and my friend is rantin on about how his Cooper S discs are far superior...maybe, so but when drums are kept well maintained and generally kept on top of they are really good! No doubt about it, anyone comment on that?
cooperman said:
The best head for a 'nice' 998 is the 12G295 casting, as used on the 998 Coopers, with, maybe slightly larger inlet valves and a bit of opening-out and general gas-flowing. For the cam I would go to a Kent 266, a 1.5" SU on a decent inlet manifold and either a small-bore LCB or a Cooper-type 3 branch into a 2-box exhaust with a small-bore RC40 as the back box (probably centre-exit).Nicely assembled this should give around 55 bhp, i.e. about the same as the original Cooper 998, but without the insurance loading.
However, I would certainly do something with the braking system. 7.5" 'S' discs and hubs would be the ideal.
Peter
However, I would certainly do something with the braking system. 7.5" 'S' discs and hubs would be the ideal.
Peter
I also could get the block pocketed, and get a 940 head onto it and a Swift tune 5 cam...
Mr2Mike said:
If you have an A+ engine than you can also retain the tensioner when you fit the duplex gear, giving you a very quiet, long lasting setup.
Mine is only an A series as its 1979, A plus engines came in I think 1984 when 12 inch wheels came in, therefore mine HASNT got a timing chain tensioner, just the chain on 2 sprockets..
Push an 850 much beyond 6300 and you are pushing your luck! I'm sure there will now be those who say it's good for 7000, or somethikng like that, but they don't have to take it all out and get a new block and gearbox if/when it all lets go. The 998 is a different matter as it's much stronger and will take a regular 6500. However, I wouldn't cruise either at much over 4500-5000.
Personally I think you would be better off not fitting a fibreglass front, and especially not fitting a full fibregalss flip-front. I know I've gone on a bit on here about the loss of structural integrity with the flip-fronts but, IMHO, for ordinary road use they are bloody dangerous in any sort of frontal impact.
The drum brakes really are not very good, although we did race and rally with them in the 60's. If drums are to be retained, a good bit of advice would be to renew everything including the slave cylinders and linings, new drums (Minifins if you can afford some) and make sure you regularly adjust them. The full 'S' disc set-up can be expensive and I guess you want to keep on 10" wheels (they are best for any Mini).You don't need to cut any holes in the front as 850 and 998 cooling is never a problem. In fact cooling is only an issue with the very big engines on hot days in competition.
The best thing you can spend your cash on is suspension improvements like decent dampers, suspension bushes, correct front and rear settings, etc.
Personally I think you would be better off not fitting a fibreglass front, and especially not fitting a full fibregalss flip-front. I know I've gone on a bit on here about the loss of structural integrity with the flip-fronts but, IMHO, for ordinary road use they are bloody dangerous in any sort of frontal impact.
The drum brakes really are not very good, although we did race and rally with them in the 60's. If drums are to be retained, a good bit of advice would be to renew everything including the slave cylinders and linings, new drums (Minifins if you can afford some) and make sure you regularly adjust them. The full 'S' disc set-up can be expensive and I guess you want to keep on 10" wheels (they are best for any Mini).You don't need to cut any holes in the front as 850 and 998 cooling is never a problem. In fact cooling is only an issue with the very big engines on hot days in competition.
The best thing you can spend your cash on is suspension improvements like decent dampers, suspension bushes, correct front and rear settings, etc.
agree with what pete says about flip fronts - you would spoil that car.
if you do decide to go the disc route my recomendation would be either to buy all new (about 500) or buy the bits to convert a 12" set to suit (about 300).
there are plenty of hare brained schemes on the tinternet about converting stuff to fit, sure they may be cheap, may work, may not.
but remember, they are YOUR brakes and its your life, and your car, and your insurance that will become the isssue when they fail.
buy new, fit once, forget.
i wouldnt bother buying secondhand s discs either - they normally cost a fait bit to recon - and can sometimes end up being a false economy.
id leave the 850 in your car, get used to driving with the power you have, it will teach you yo become a very smooth driver as you will have to anticpate traffic and road conditions to kkep it going, ive had a few 850s, they are great cars, particually round towm - sure, they dont like motorways and are a bit sluggish when it comes to hills, but you will still be able to zip round corners faster than some little chav in a 1.4 saxo.
if you do decide to go the disc route my recomendation would be either to buy all new (about 500) or buy the bits to convert a 12" set to suit (about 300).
there are plenty of hare brained schemes on the tinternet about converting stuff to fit, sure they may be cheap, may work, may not.
but remember, they are YOUR brakes and its your life, and your car, and your insurance that will become the isssue when they fail.
buy new, fit once, forget.
i wouldnt bother buying secondhand s discs either - they normally cost a fait bit to recon - and can sometimes end up being a false economy.
id leave the 850 in your car, get used to driving with the power you have, it will teach you yo become a very smooth driver as you will have to anticpate traffic and road conditions to kkep it going, ive had a few 850s, they are great cars, particually round towm - sure, they dont like motorways and are a bit sluggish when it comes to hills, but you will still be able to zip round corners faster than some little chav in a 1.4 saxo.
cooperman said:
Push an 850 much beyond 6300 and you are pushing your luck! I'm sure there will now be those who say it's good for 7000, or somethikng like that, but they don't have to take it all out and get a new block and gearbox if/when it all lets go. The 998 is a different matter as it's much stronger and will take a regular 6500. However, I wouldn't cruise either at much over 4500-5000.
Personally I think you would be better off not fitting a fibreglass front, and especially not fitting a full fibregalss flip-front. I know I've gone on a bit on here about the loss of structural integrity with the flip-fronts but, IMHO, for ordinary road use they are bloody dangerous in any sort of frontal impact.
The drum brakes really are not very good, although we did race and rally with them in the 60's. If drums are to be retained, a good bit of advice would be to renew everything including the slave cylinders and linings, new drums (Minifins if you can afford some) and make sure you regularly adjust them. The full 'S' disc set-up can be expensive and I guess you want to keep on 10" wheels (they are best for any Mini).You don't need to cut any holes in the front as 850 and 998 cooling is never a problem. In fact cooling is only an issue with the very big engines on hot days in competition.
The best thing you can spend your cash on is suspension improvements like decent dampers, suspension bushes, correct front and rear settings, etc.
Personally I think you would be better off not fitting a fibreglass front, and especially not fitting a full fibregalss flip-front. I know I've gone on a bit on here about the loss of structural integrity with the flip-fronts but, IMHO, for ordinary road use they are bloody dangerous in any sort of frontal impact.
The drum brakes really are not very good, although we did race and rally with them in the 60's. If drums are to be retained, a good bit of advice would be to renew everything including the slave cylinders and linings, new drums (Minifins if you can afford some) and make sure you regularly adjust them. The full 'S' disc set-up can be expensive and I guess you want to keep on 10" wheels (they are best for any Mini).You don't need to cut any holes in the front as 850 and 998 cooling is never a problem. In fact cooling is only an issue with the very big engines on hot days in competition.
The best thing you can spend your cash on is suspension improvements like decent dampers, suspension bushes, correct front and rear settings, etc.
Hi, I'm not going the flip front route thats for sure, need as much metal in the car as possible! I was offered some Cooper S discs and rebuild kit whic hhe said i wouldnt need for about £200. ?? Good?
If it's disc, hubs, claipers and drive shafts, 2nd hand, for about £200 that's a really good deal. Caliper rebuild kits are cheap. If it's everything except the hubs, worry not.The 'S' hubs are the same as the later disc braked cars with 12" wheels, although the drive flanges are still different.
If the 850 is in good nick, maybe just needing new big-end and main shells, plus, of course, a new oil pump and water pump, plus the timing chain we all mentioned earlier, it would be good to stick with it, as Rich says. 850's are fun in a gentle sort of way, but round the corners they are probably the most neutral-steering of all Minis due to there being not much 'power-on' understeer with just 34 bhp.
If the 850 is in good nick, maybe just needing new big-end and main shells, plus, of course, a new oil pump and water pump, plus the timing chain we all mentioned earlier, it would be good to stick with it, as Rich says. 850's are fun in a gentle sort of way, but round the corners they are probably the most neutral-steering of all Minis due to there being not much 'power-on' understeer with just 34 bhp.
guru_1071 said:
split the caliper (use new joining seal)
bit of wood and a g-clamp
or, a bit of tube that slips over the piston, and a g-clamp.
ive wasted a few seal kits in my time........
a foul job!
bit of wood and a g-clamp
or, a bit of tube that slips over the piston, and a g-clamp.
ive wasted a few seal kits in my time........
a foul job!
Agree 110%.
I've got to do it this weekend on a pair of 998 Mayfair calipers - er, maybe!
they are a lot lighter, which helps with unsprung weight/handeling.
they get rid of heat faster.
they are also impossible to buy anymore, all you can buy is super fins, which have the built in spacer.
if you do buy these, buy the proper ones, the cheapo ones (40 quid a pair) are as heavy as cast iron ones!
they get rid of heat faster.
they are also impossible to buy anymore, all you can buy is super fins, which have the built in spacer.
if you do buy these, buy the proper ones, the cheapo ones (40 quid a pair) are as heavy as cast iron ones!
Gassing Station | Classic Minis | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff