Mini City 1293
Discussion
Okay cheers, i'll give that a go. It just doesnt warm up. One other thing I thought was worth a mention was that the vehicle squeals when cold, sounds like the fan belt, but only for the first few couple of hundred yards. Fan belt is tight, alternator pully is 'free' and theres no ignition light.
Sick of oil leaks too, one of the diff joints to g/box leaks could do with draining it all off and resealing with another new gasket. Bloody thing.
Sick of oil leaks too, one of the diff joints to g/box leaks could do with draining it all off and resealing with another new gasket. Bloody thing.
Edited by Mini_Lund on Saturday 14th August 13:22
I know you've heard it all before, but ever since i've been on pistonheads, i've always loved your mini.
After about 6 years without a mini (and i'm 21 now lol) i'm ready to get anougther one, i miss everyrthing about them (even the rust) and yours just inspires me more, keep up the good work dude =)
After about 6 years without a mini (and i'm 21 now lol) i'm ready to get anougther one, i miss everyrthing about them (even the rust) and yours just inspires me more, keep up the good work dude =)
ALfooy said:
I know you've heard it all before, but ever since i've been on pistonheads, i've always loved your mini.
After about 6 years without a mini (and i'm 21 now lol) i'm ready to get anougther one, i miss everyrthing about them (even the rust) and yours just inspires me more, keep up the good work dude =)
Hi, thanks for the feedback. She's getting re-dyno'd Monday, I'll let you know how it goes... again!After about 6 years without a mini (and i'm 21 now lol) i'm ready to get anougther one, i miss everyrthing about them (even the rust) and yours just inspires me more, keep up the good work dude =)
FWDRacer said:
Tom - that is much better. I had a 1275cc Mini with 64 at the wheels and on a 3.1 diff it would crack the ton* 
(*On a race track).
Now Enjoy all that hard work!
Cheers! (*On a race track).
Now Enjoy all that hard work!
Its certainly better for it. BPR7ES plugs and a DLB 198 coil for the electronic ignition.phumy said:
Mini_Lund said:
2000 - 5500RPM 2nd gear. ++ve ign adv
66BHP @ Wheels
88-90BHP @ Fly
300lb ft torque @ 31mph.
BCE needle
Really impressed as she drives really well. Thats more like it.
300lb ft of torque?????, i dont think so, not from a mini engine.....66BHP @ Wheels
88-90BHP @ Fly
300lb ft torque @ 31mph.
BCE needle
Really impressed as she drives really well. Thats more like it.
I'm guessing were usually looking at a 30% loss through transmission?
Thats put a smile back on your face,after saying you were selling it.Mini`s do that,i`ve lost count of the times i`ve come in from the garage and said....Thats it!Its going on Ebay!****ing Thing!Sick of ****ing Mini`s!
But then you get it sorted take it for a good drive and remember why we love em so much.
But then you get it sorted take it for a good drive and remember why we love em so much.
minipete said:
Thats put a smile back on your face,after saying you were selling it.Mini`s do that,i`ve lost count of the times i`ve come in from the garage and said....Thats it!Its going on Ebay!****ing Thing!Sick of ****ing Mini`s!
But then you get it sorted take it for a good drive and remember why we love em so much.
But then you get it sorted take it for a good drive and remember why we love em so much.
So true, well said that man.
FWDRacer said:
Tom - that is much better. I had a 1275cc Mini with 64 at the wheels and on a 3.1 diff it would crack the ton*
(*On a race track).
Now Enjoy all that hard work!
There's no chance mine would crack the ton with the 3:4 in! (*On a race track).
Now Enjoy all that hard work!
I'm thinking about adding a brake servo to the system as the brake pedal is only ever as hard as I press it. I'm slightly sceptical if I am able to stop in good time against modern day traffic. Does anyone have one lying around, ready for a refurb?
One other thing whilst I remember - my clutch is awful. I have next to no travel. The bite is 2 inches from the floor and I have carpet underlay, carpet & then floor mats down which doesn't help. Even still the bite is too low. I have adjusted the locking nut, but I dare not wind it back any further. I suspect the master cylinder is at fault as the slave cylinder is brand new, with new clutch clevis pins and clutch arm. I have the one piece braided clutch line on the system too- could this reduce travel? I have used an easy bleed on the system with new brake fluid, there's no air in the system.
Hi Tom, enjoyed reading this thread as it brings back a lot of memories, not all good I might add. Many years ago I had a 998 Cooper with a Richard Longman tuned engine amongst other mods. The engine finally gave up, can't remember why, but after a rebuild which included a new clutch, it wouldn't select any gears, no matter what we did. I mentioned this to my father who mentioned it to one of his old pub mates who happened to build gearboxes for a living. He asked if I could let him have the clutch arm and a week later I got it back, fitted it and it worked, clutch bite in correct place, no problems at all. He never told me what he'd done, tricks of the trade etc. Maybe that's where the problem lies and phoning around gearbox specialists might get you an answer. You've got a nice car there and it makes me want another one......
Tom,
I can't remember if you have a pre-verto clutch. If you do, measure the linear travel at the top of the clutch arm. it should be around 0.55". If less than 0.5" you have a partial failure of the slave or maaster cylinder. If it is 0.5" or greater it's a mechanical problem with the clutch mechanism.
By the way, the power curves look good and you have built a fine engine.
Peter
I can't remember if you have a pre-verto clutch. If you do, measure the linear travel at the top of the clutch arm. it should be around 0.55". If less than 0.5" you have a partial failure of the slave or maaster cylinder. If it is 0.5" or greater it's a mechanical problem with the clutch mechanism.
By the way, the power curves look good and you have built a fine engine.
Peter
Re-kindling the love...
As you can see, I could do with giving the radius arm another lick of paint in places, but it's all the better for it, rid of the concrete cow muck and general grit. The shockers are also set to 'girlfriend mode' as any other setting and it literally jumps down the road (set to notch 2 of 28). What do you guys run yours?
As you can see, I could do with giving the radius arm another lick of paint in places, but it's all the better for it, rid of the concrete cow muck and general grit. The shockers are also set to 'girlfriend mode' as any other setting and it literally jumps down the road (set to notch 2 of 28). What do you guys run yours?
You have probably set the damping about right. Too many people have them too hard and the nwhels don't stay on the ground properly. Just experiment to see what suits you best.
Now, what you may need is a set of red mud flaps behind the front & rear wheels. Demon Tweeks do some mudflap material in red which is what I have on my 'S'. It stops the stones from 'sandblasting' the sills. Keeps the rear window a bit cleaner too.
Now, what you may need is a set of red mud flaps behind the front & rear wheels. Demon Tweeks do some mudflap material in red which is what I have on my 'S'. It stops the stones from 'sandblasting' the sills. Keeps the rear window a bit cleaner too.
Cooperman said:
You have probably set the damping about right. Too many people have them too hard and the nwhels don't stay on the ground properly. Just experiment to see what suits you best.
Now, what you may need is a set of red mud flaps behind the front & rear wheels. Demon Tweeks do some mudflap material in red which is what I have on my 'S'. It stops the stones from 'sandblasting' the sills. Keeps the rear window a bit cleaner too.
I doubt that red mud flaps would suit the vermillion paint Pete Now, what you may need is a set of red mud flaps behind the front & rear wheels. Demon Tweeks do some mudflap material in red which is what I have on my 'S'. It stops the stones from 'sandblasting' the sills. Keeps the rear window a bit cleaner too.
I have mud flaps on the front which helps a great deal protecting the sills from gravel rash. I also noticed I haven't used a gasket between the breather and flywheel housing, which probably isn't helping the idle - will sort that tomorrow.GTRMikie said:
Mini_Lund said:
On another note, I'm still not so sure about this drilled thermostat. The heater blows warm for the first few seconds, then cold from there on after. I have ran the engine without the cap on for a few minutes, but this hasn't cured the problem. The heater worked great with the old engine, so I'm a little suspect. Does the thermostat really require 4 holes to compensate for the lack of the bypass? The weather hasn't been great as of late, should I pop the thermostat out of the 850 in?
I tried a drilled thermostat on one of my 1275 engines some time ago, and the engine took forever to warm up. I now run with a thermostat in my 1275 and 1303 AC Dodd built engines, but I leave the heater valve open to act as the bypass. As long as the heater "flap" is closed and the fan is off, I have no problems with heat in the cabin. Also it sounds like you may have an air lock in the heater.Edited by Mini_Lund on Monday 9th August 12:29
Just sorted out my clutch, its a million miles away from what it used to be like. The engine feels that much tighter and gear changes a lot smoother. Really made up with it. Also raised all corners and scrubbed the Yoko's with a stiff brush clearing the tread of all the mud and cow s
t so the tyres can do their job of dispersing water. Off out tonight, but more than sure I'll get the opportunity to enjoy her tomorrow. A well deserved pint. 
t so the tyres can do their job of dispersing water. Off out tonight, but more than sure I'll get the opportunity to enjoy her tomorrow. A well deserved pint. 
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