Lund's MG Metro 1275 Engine Build

[Mini_Lund]

Adcuz said:

This should fly, good to see it finally going in.

I'll second that. Weather is terrible today, I'll put it in tomorrow. So tempted to loctite that teardrop mount back together, just to get the MOT & then fit a new one in good time! - First time I'll have done a bodge!

A few questions now really;

I have reassembled the Hif44 carb, however the choke lever works and the spring resets, but I don't see any components move? Should it not move the needle seat up and down?

Am I able to fit the engine with the exhaust manifold fitted? Also what about the rad?

I seem to have lost the email Peter sent with the information about the wiring to the pre-engaged starter motor. I assume I run the starter wire to the post on the solenoid on the starter, and then run a wire back, from what and where to?

Thanks again guys.

[Mini_Lund]

The offending teardrop mount!



I cut out the rot and dad proceeded to weld a patch in (Obviously still not trusted with the welder!) I used a skim of filler, gave it a quick sand down and high build filler prime; I then gave this a quick rub with a scotch brite pad top coat of vermillion and bobs your uncle. Will attack it with some 3M compound tomorrow; take the edge off.





It's ready to take the engine tomorrow, still got a few bits and bobs to get. I'm going to run it in using Duckhams 20w/50 Mineral oil.

Cheers, Tom

ETA: Gave this a polish today; bit of an arty shot.

Edited by Mini_Lund on Saturday 2nd January 17:36

[Mini_Lund]

guru_1071 said:

on a hif there isnt a choke lever as such, rather, by pulling the choke you rotate a little barrel inside the carb that has a hole in it which allows extra fuel to dribble in and (hopefully) excite the engine into starting

when the rubber seals around the barrel fail the car floods all the time

That makes sense, I noticed the holes in the barrel on removal. I would have replaced the seal if it looked abit suspect. I did fit a new gasket however.

I'll be in touch with you soon Rich - Thank you for all of your help thus far. All the best.

Tom

[Mini_Lund]

The 1293 is in!

The engine is now mounted in the Mini, hopefully it will stay there to stay for a long while yet!

I'm having trouble fitting the 1300 ultimate engine steady. It's a complete ball ache. The mount fouls the weld on the exhaust so doesnt sit right, and the holes on the thermostat end arent wide enough for it to fully seat. With a bit of fiddling and alot of bending it should be alright. The bar doesn't even line up straight, its on an angle to the bulkhead. Should it be like that?

I took a few photos before and afters (sadly no photos of the mount, I'll try get some);

[Mini_Lund]

dogfather said:

well done m8 im glad to c it in, made me smile wen i saw ur thread today. it was a little fresh thismorning, hope u didnt have to many knuckle scrapers and finger stingers whilst installing it.

Hi Neale,

I'm glad to see it in too! It certainly was a cold one, managed to get the engine in hassle free, no nasties or injuries. Sod's law says something is bound to leak Can't wait to crank it over now, just one bit of wiring to the starter and some oil/water, a few other bits and bobs and shes ready to start.

I'll then focus on the driveshafts and brakes.

ETA: Spot the deliberate mistake. Ult engine steady bracket too far over!

Cheers, Tom

Edited by Mini_Lund on Sunday 3rd January 19:18

[Mini_Lund]

FWDRacer said:

All lookin' good - except - Take that F'in drinks can off the Coil...

Aye thats to come off yet!

[Mini_Lund]

Plank said:

You say you will run the engine in on 20W/50. I would allways recommend that you run in a tuned transverse A series with a thinner oil such as 15w/40, then change to 20W/50 when it is fully run in. If you intend to use the car in the winter use 15W/50 in the cold season. Steve.

It just so happens that I'm going to be using Rock Oil Strata 10w/40. Went back to the machine shop, (It's still under warranty) and they reccommended that I use this oil and filter for 500 miles, then change to reccommended oil after the run in period.

Edited by Mini_Lund on Tuesday 5th January 18:13

[Mini_Lund]

GTRMikie said:

There have been many posts on this forum concerning the best oil to use in a mini, and the concensus is: Cheap 20W/50 running in oil, "Unipart Green" being the best for the first 500 miles, followed by an oil change, then another 500 on cheap oil then finally a change to your "expensive" 20W/50 of choice, usually Valvoline, Millers or similar, which is changed regularly. This is also the preferred running in procedure for my favourite engine builders, AC Dodd and Andy Davies at ML Motorsport.

Lund, why are you using 10W/40, mini gearboxes do not like this stuff?

Hi Mike,

It's a case of if you want something doing, so it yourself.

Dad went back to Merseyside Engines who machined the block and assembled the pistons etc and the bloke who machined the engine apparently told dad to use 10w/40, run the engine in on this stuff, then after 500miles change over to the "expensive" stuff.

Major cockup?

ETA: Would it be wise to fill the oil filter up before I install it?

Edited by Mini_Lund on Tuesday 5th January 20:48

[Mini_Lund]

FWDRacer said:

Always fill the filter up (and put a fresh smear of oil on the seal) - don't do this and extreme cases see the oil pump trying to suck up fresh air and then getting a sort of cavitation in the oil system. Not good.

Do not put 10w40 near the freshly built engine. It needs to run for the first 500 miles on a poor quality 20w50 oil (API SF or lower!) in order to get the rings to bed in. Best thing is run it for a minimum 500 miles slowly increasing rpm - then run a compression test and if all four cylinders are holding greater that 160-170 PSi and are within 10-15lb of each other - only then move it onto "Better Quality oil". Valvoline Racing Mineral 20w50 all the way for me.

Do a search on oils - It's been done to death on the Mini section of PH...

I'll try get down to Halfords and get myself some Classic oil; 20/50. Everywhere is at a standstill due to the snow.

[Mini_Lund]

ASDA Smartprice Motor oil - 20W50 Mineral (4.5ltr) £6.00
> (£1.33 per 1lt)



Suitable?

[Mini_Lund]

Cooperman said:

That'll do fine for the initial running in. Then go onto the Valvoline Racing 20w50 or a near equivalent. I just got some Castrol Classic 20w50 from mini Spares which I'm going to put in my Innocenti. My Cooper 'S' always has Valvoline.

Cheers Pete, I managed to get hold of the Tesco equivalent 20w/50 today, as well as the missing oil gauge adapter piece. I have everything I need now, barring black caliper paint. Full steam ahead!

[Mini_Lund]

I wish the snow would stop to allow me to put the exhaust back on and start her up for the first time!

Edited by Mini_Lund on Wednesday 13th January 15:32

[Mini_Lund]

If I was really committed I could get the mini going right now. Put the radiator on, anti-freeze/water in. Test the Anti-Freeze. Set the tappets using the rule of 9, put the exhaust on and turn her over for oil pressure and then turn her over to start, let her sing for 30mins and switch off but...

Motivate me.

[Mini_Lund]

FWDRacer said:

Oh, and Tom - Please man the f*ck up and get outside and finish it. It's back up above freezing now

But it's raining!

ETA:

Oil Filter on, radiator back on and plumbled in, tappet clearances set (0.07mm?), fully oiled up, starter motor solenoid wiring done (I wont be winning auto-electrician of the year thats for sure!) Hubs part assembled, waiting on some more shims. Front Dunlop cones (Rich I think they are genuines as they were in MG Rover sealed packets) are in both sides. Waiting on some new knuckle joints. I hope to get her back on all 4 wheels at the weekend, but I doubt it...

Edited by Mini_Lund on Wednesday 20th January 13:37

[Mini_Lund]

Update biatches!

I have sprayed the callipers, albiet a little sparse with the paint in some places, but it'll do. Shims have arrived to allow me to continue with the hubs;



Thrown together;



I also took delivery of the best (most expensive) Burger King I've ever had to this day; cheers Rich





(Rears also)

I was shocked to say the least

Edited by Mini_Lund on Friday 22 January 17:07

[Mini_Lund]

Nearly finished building up the hubs now. Driveshafts are yet to go on along with the calipers, but the front Hi-Lo's and new rubber doughnuts are finally in. Plenty of pics of course:

[Mini_Lund]

danoldo said:

Hello Tom,

Firstly I'd like to say reading your build has been very useful, as I am doing something similar myself. Looks like your making a good job of it.

Also, with reference to the above quote - did you ever get reply on this? I am currently having trouble trying to figure out the cooling set up and any info would be useful!

Cheers,
Dan.

Hi Dan,

I just noticed that your profile states you're in Cheshire, where abouts are you?

I am currently using a 998 thermostat housing. However, the housing is of a smaller bore to that of the 1275 one. You're probably best using the 1275 setup for optimum cooling/flow. As the MG cylinderhead does not have a bypass hose, I have drilled 4 small holes in the actual thermostat to compensate for the lack of flow due to the loss of the bypass - I have heard however, that the engine takes a while longer to heat up, but it should'nt effect it all that much.

I hope this helps, all the best,

Tom.

[Mini_Lund]

Having a few issues chasing mold:



But apart from that:



That is all folks.

[Mini_Lund]

Update:

Calipers and red stuff pads are on, ready to take the wheels now, and finally fit the exhaust.



The end is nigh.

[Mini_Lund]

Serious overkill I think. I'm lacking that extra 130bhp - nothing a blower wont sort!