Lund's MG Metro 1275 Engine Build

[Mini_Lund]

All very well, but that doesn't help me too much. I'm hoping to get this flywheel on sharpish, however I have also just fitted the petrol pump, all being well it should work fine




Do I need 8 of these to fit the housing to the block?

CLUTCH HOUSING TO BLOCK BOLT 1.75"x5/16"unf - BH605141

Description

There are 3 of these bolts fitted -1/75"long UNF bolt ALTERNATIVE DAM7758. Also used for water pump.

Edited by Mini_Lund on Sunday 23 August 14:20

[dogfather]

Mini_Lund said:

Brief update guys, the gearbox has now been fully re-built.

how much was your rebuild mate and did you change any think inside, reason for my question is i have a cooper s diff and final drive gear which going to install to my box but was after a rough figure on how much they charge..thanks m8..looking good by the way..

[Mini_Lund]

dogfather said:

Mini_Lund said:

Brief update guys, the gearbox has now been fully re-built.

how much was your rebuild mate and did you change any think inside, reason for my question is i have a cooper s diff and final drive gear which going to install to my box but was after a rough figure on how much they charge..thanks m8..looking good by the way..

Hi there, a friend of my dad's in the mini club used to rebuild gearboxes etc and still builds boxes for the racers in the club.

Extract from my build expenses

Gearbox Rebuild

Gearbox Refurb Labour 100.00
Central Oil Pickup 20.81
Differential Pin 21.09
Planet Gear Thrust Washer x2 4.20
Double Roller Mainshaft 37.00
Needle Roller 1st Motion/layshaft 4 sync 2.87
Roller Single Type for Holding 1st Motion Shaft 10.86
Baulk Rings Genuine Rover x4 63.00
Oil Pump Slot Drive 12.20
Fan Spacer '85 onwards 5.24
Planet Gears x2 16.54


TOTAL: £293.81

Edited by Mini_Lund on Sunday 23 August 20:48

[duncancallum]

Studs or bolts are fine. but make sure you use the right ones in the right holes as I said before.

if your using studs use a little thread lock and a spring washer or a nyloc on the stud it should be fine

as before

ally-unc
iron-unf

[Mini_Lund]

duncancallum said:

Studs or bolts are fine. but make sure you use the right ones in the right holes as I said before.

if your using studs use a little thread lock and a spring washer or a nyloc on the stud it should be fine

as before

ally-unc
iron-unf

Hi there, thanks for you're input I have copper eased and fitted all of the studs back in place in the engine. I have the 3 bolts needed however one is slightly chewed up so I'm getting another. I have masses of Loctite leftover from the countersunk timing chain screws so should be ideal. I like the idea of the nyloc nuts. Either way I should be fine. Need a new clutch cover to eninge/gearbox gasket tho! One of the studs that align the cover managed to pinch the gasket and split it on the bottom corner. I'll have to get a new gasket. All being well it should be on soon. Then I can fit the flywheel and clutch.

[duncancallum]

make sure you get the same thickness gasket to keep the thrust float the same

[Mini_Lund]

duncancallum said:

make sure you get the same thickness gasket to keep the thrust float the same

Will do thanks.

Engine:

Camshaft Gear Locktab 2A759
Locktab Crank Pulley Late TAM2020
Diff Output Shaft Oil Seal X2 ADU5738
Clutch Case gasket 22A2237B
Rotor Arm Distributer GRA2143

Brakes:

S Brakes C-AJJ4028
Braided Hoses Front C-AJJ4030


Clutch:

Verto Clutch GSY118
Clutch Hose Verto GVP1009


Rebuilt Hif44:

Edited by Mini_Lund on Monday 31st August 20:29

[Mini_Lund]

I'll be running the mini on the new S brake setup without a servo. However, I'll be removing the valve splitter for the brakes to harden the brake pedal. I'll also be using Goodrich braided brake lines for the fronts; do I require a different master cylinder or will my current one work with this setup?

[GTRMikie]

Mini_Lund said:

However, I'll be removing the valve splitter for the brakes to harden the brake pedal.

Do you mean the pressure limiting valve to the rear brakes? If you do then don't do it because you will be spinning down the road on the first heavy application of the brakes!

Also Cooper S brakes work fine without a servo, assuming you have the single line braking system (well, they do on my van)

[GTRMikie]

Mini_Lund said:

However, I'll be removing the valve splitter for the brakes to harden the brake pedal.

Do you mean the pressure limiting valve to the rear brakes? If you do then don't do it because you will be spinning down the road on the first heavy application of the brakes!

Also Cooper S brakes work fine without a servo, assuming you have the single line braking system (well, they do on my van)

[Mini_Lund]

GTRMikie said:

Mini_Lund said:

However, I'll be removing the valve splitter for the brakes to harden the brake pedal.

Do you mean the pressure limiting valve to the rear brakes? If you do then don't do it because you will be spinning down the road on the first heavy application of the brakes!

Also Cooper S brakes work fine without a servo, assuming you have the single line braking system (well, they do on my van)

Thats the one Best not too then you say? Indeed it is a single line braking system.

[FWDRacer]

Leave the valve in the system... I run S-Brakes with no servo on my race car and we have a tilton adjustable limiting valve for the rear brakes. You really don't want the rear of the car to lock.

Some people even spec the bigger bore rear rear wheel cylinders to lower the pressure at the brake shoe. Pressure = force/area therefore an increase in surface area of the cylinder bore results in lower rear wheel cylinder pressures.

Hope that helps.

Did I mention you really must leave this valve in the system?

[Mini_Lund]

Hold on guys. I mean the valve located on the bulkhead just below the mastercylinder, the one that splits the rears and fronts.

[Mini_Lund]

I'm back on it! Afer a period of having no motivation for anything mini, this is my final push/jaunt to get it completed and another step further to the engine being in the mini before christmas! Should be fun in icy weather with Yoko Slicks!

Oh and I must have forgotten to mention;








If there's one thing I hate doing, it's grinding the valve seats in!

[Mini_Lund]

Cleaned up the cylinder head and gave it a blast through with the compressor air gun. Could do with grinding the valves in and then washing it with petrol;

[Mini_Lund]

Yet another update guys, I had a look at one of the spare 1275 cylinderheads that were laying around in the garage. On closer inspection I notice that the cylinder head has double valve springs; Bonus! I promptly remove them and clean them up. I have no idea what load bearing they are (240lbs seems to be most common), is there any way to tell?

The cylinder head that I removed the springs from also had bronze valve guides as well as new valves by the looks of things, but was heavily coked up. The double spring head has made me curious as to what cam is in the spare 1275 engine it came from!

I intend on using the double valve springs for my MG metro cylinder head, is this advised over the standard single springs?



I primed and lightly coated the cylinder head today whilst the weather was decent, all is looking well. Cannot wait to piece it all together and fit it to the block.





I have torqued up all the nuts and bolts as present. Next I'll focus my attention on the clutch and flywheel and then its basically done and ready to go in. I'm hoping to have the engine in before christmas.

Engine having had a few knocks and bumps whilst being in the garage:

[DanGT]

Have you checked that the old pump will be ok for your engine. I was told to go for an electric pump when doing me mini. But it was so long ago that I cant remeber at what stage of tune its worth doing. I know some one will know?

[phumy]

Have you painted the valve springs , retainers and collets with black paint?, if you have you should take it off as it will flake off with heat and fill your oil system.

[Mini_Lund]

phumy said:

Have you painted the valve springs , retainers and collets with black paint?, if you have you should take it off as it will flake off with heat and fill your oil system.

I haven't no. I gave them all a clean with soapy water to remove all the dirt & oil and dryed them off to take the photo.

[FWDRacer]

The single springs will have more than adequate poundage to control the valve train. If you don't intend giving the motor more than 6K rpm (or the cam will allow it) - the double springs will just rob you power.