Lund's MG Metro 1275 Engine Build
Discussion
dogfather said:
forgot to say, youve painted your manifold and i dont think it was wise. although it is high temp paint, the heat generated inside the manifold is extremly high and will almost certainly exceed the strength of the paint. i learnt this when i bought a complete system, it got knocked about befor it went on so i painted it. within the 1st 5minutes of starting it up it burnt the paint away to the metal and smoked like hell untill the paint was gone, dont mean to burst your bubble and hopfully it dont happen to yours but thought id let you know.
I used the same paint when i put the manifold on the 850. I used the paint on the whole system infact, the paint lasted it just had abit of surface rust on so i gave it a light sand and another coat. The 1293 shoudln't run any hottter than the 850. Thanks for the advice though.Edited by dogfather on Friday 1st January 20:40
Adcuz said:
This should fly, good to see it finally going in.
I'll second that. Weather is terrible today, I'll put it in tomorrow. So tempted to loctite that teardrop mount back together, just to get the MOT & then fit a new one in good time! - First time I'll have done a bodge!A few questions now really;
I have reassembled the Hif44 carb, however the choke lever works and the spring resets, but I don't see any components move? Should it not move the needle seat up and down?
Am I able to fit the engine with the exhaust manifold fitted? Also what about the rad?
I seem to have lost the email Peter sent with the information about the wiring to the pre-engaged starter motor. I assume I run the starter wire to the post on the solenoid on the starter, and then run a wire back, from what and where to?
Thanks again guys.
The offending teardrop mount!
I cut out the rot and dad proceeded to weld a patch in (Obviously still not trusted with the welder!) I used a skim of filler, gave it a quick sand down and high build filler prime; I then gave this a quick rub with a scotch brite pad top coat of vermillion and bobs your uncle. Will attack it with some 3M compound tomorrow; take the edge off.
It's ready to take the engine tomorrow, still got a few bits and bobs to get. I'm going to run it in using Duckhams 20w/50 Mineral oil.
Cheers, Tom
ETA: Gave this a polish today; bit of an arty shot.
I cut out the rot and dad proceeded to weld a patch in (Obviously still not trusted with the welder!) I used a skim of filler, gave it a quick sand down and high build filler prime; I then gave this a quick rub with a scotch brite pad top coat of vermillion and bobs your uncle. Will attack it with some 3M compound tomorrow; take the edge off.
It's ready to take the engine tomorrow, still got a few bits and bobs to get. I'm going to run it in using Duckhams 20w/50 Mineral oil.
Cheers, Tom
ETA: Gave this a polish today; bit of an arty shot.
Edited by Mini_Lund on Saturday 2nd January 17:36
on a hif there isnt a choke lever as such, rather, by pulling the choke you rotate a little barrel inside the carb that has a hole in it which allows extra fuel to dribble in and (hopefully) excite the engine into starting
when the rubber seals around the barrel fail the car floods all the time
when the rubber seals around the barrel fail the car floods all the time
guru_1071 said:
on a hif there isnt a choke lever as such, rather, by pulling the choke you rotate a little barrel inside the carb that has a hole in it which allows extra fuel to dribble in and (hopefully) excite the engine into starting
when the rubber seals around the barrel fail the car floods all the time
That makes sense, I noticed the holes in the barrel on removal. I would have replaced the seal if it looked abit suspect. I did fit a new gasket however. when the rubber seals around the barrel fail the car floods all the time
I'll be in touch with you soon Rich - Thank you for all of your help thus far. All the best.
Tom
Mini_Lund said:
dogfather said:
forgot to say, youve painted your manifold and i dont think it was wise. although it is high temp paint, the heat generated inside the manifold is extremly high and will almost certainly exceed the strength of the paint. i learnt this when i bought a complete system, it got knocked about befor it went on so i painted it. within the 1st 5minutes of starting it up it burnt the paint away to the metal and smoked like hell untill the paint was gone, dont mean to burst your bubble and hopfully it dont happen to yours but thought id let you know.
I used the same paint when i put the manifold on the 850. I used the paint on the whole system infact, the paint lasted it just had abit of surface rust on so i gave it a light sand and another coat. The 1293 shoudln't run any hottter than the 850. Thanks for the advice though.Edited by dogfather on Friday 1st January 20:40
The 1293 is in!
The engine is now mounted in the Mini, hopefully it will stay there to stay for a long while yet!
I'm having trouble fitting the 1300 ultimate engine steady. It's a complete ball ache. The mount fouls the weld on the exhaust so doesnt sit right, and the holes on the thermostat end arent wide enough for it to fully seat. With a bit of fiddling and alot of bending it should be alright. The bar doesn't even line up straight, its on an angle to the bulkhead. Should it be like that?
I took a few photos before and afters (sadly no photos of the mount, I'll try get some);
The engine is now mounted in the Mini, hopefully it will stay there to stay for a long while yet!
I'm having trouble fitting the 1300 ultimate engine steady. It's a complete ball ache. The mount fouls the weld on the exhaust so doesnt sit right, and the holes on the thermostat end arent wide enough for it to fully seat. With a bit of fiddling and alot of bending it should be alright. The bar doesn't even line up straight, its on an angle to the bulkhead. Should it be like that?
I took a few photos before and afters (sadly no photos of the mount, I'll try get some);
dogfather said:
well done m8 im glad to c it in, made me smile wen i saw ur thread today. it was a little fresh thismorning, hope u didnt have to many knuckle scrapers and finger stingers whilst installing it.
Hi Neale,I'm glad to see it in too! It certainly was a cold one, managed to get the engine in hassle free, no nasties or injuries. Sod's law says something is bound to leak
Can't wait to crank it over now, just one bit of wiring to the starter and some oil/water, a few other bits and bobs and shes ready to start.I'll then focus on the driveshafts and brakes.
ETA: Spot the deliberate mistake. Ult engine steady bracket too far over!
Cheers, Tom
Edited by Mini_Lund on Sunday 3rd January 19:18
Plank said:
You say you will run the engine in on 20W/50. I would allways recommend that you run in a tuned transverse A series with a thinner oil such as 15w/40, then change to 20W/50 when it is fully run in. If you intend to use the car in the winter use 15W/50 in the cold season. Steve.
It just so happens that I'm going to be using Rock Oil Strata 10w/40. Went back to the machine shop, (It's still under warranty) and they reccommended that I use this oil and filter for 500 miles, then change to reccommended oil after the run in period.Edited by Mini_Lund on Tuesday 5th January 18:13
There have been many posts on this forum concerning the best oil to use in a mini, and the concensus is: Cheap 20W/50 running in oil, "Unipart Green" being the best for the first 500 miles, followed by an oil change, then another 500 on cheap oil then finally a change to your "expensive" 20W/50 of choice, usually Valvoline, Millers or similar, which is changed regularly. This is also the preferred running in procedure for my favourite engine builders, AC Dodd and Andy Davies at ML Motorsport.
Lund, why are you using 10W/40, mini gearboxes do not like this stuff?
Lund, why are you using 10W/40, mini gearboxes do not like this stuff?
GTRMikie said:
There have been many posts on this forum concerning the best oil to use in a mini, and the concensus is: Cheap 20W/50 running in oil, "Unipart Green" being the best for the first 500 miles, followed by an oil change, then another 500 on cheap oil then finally a change to your "expensive" 20W/50 of choice, usually Valvoline, Millers or similar, which is changed regularly. This is also the preferred running in procedure for my favourite engine builders, AC Dodd and Andy Davies at ML Motorsport.
Lund, why are you using 10W/40, mini gearboxes do not like this stuff?
Hi Mike,Lund, why are you using 10W/40, mini gearboxes do not like this stuff?
It's a case of if you want something doing, so it yourself.
Dad went back to Merseyside Engines who machined the block and assembled the pistons etc and the bloke who machined the engine apparently told dad to use 10w/40, run the engine in on this stuff, then after 500miles change over to the "expensive" stuff.
Major cockup?
ETA: Would it be wise to fill the oil filter up before I install it?
Edited by Mini_Lund on Tuesday 5th January 20:48
Always fill the filter up (and put a fresh smear of oil on the seal) - don't do this and extreme cases see the oil pump trying to suck up fresh air and then getting a sort of cavitation in the oil system. Not good.
Do not put 10w40 near the freshly built engine. It needs to run for the first 500 miles on a poor quality 20w50 oil (API SF or lower!) in order to get the rings to bed in. Best thing is run it for a minimum 500 miles slowly increasing rpm - then run a compression test and if all four cylinders are holding greater that 160-170 PSi and are within 10-15lb of each other - only then move it onto "Better Quality oil". Valvoline Racing Mineral 20w50 all the way for me.
Do a search on oils - It's been done to death on the Mini section of PH...
Do not put 10w40 near the freshly built engine. It needs to run for the first 500 miles on a poor quality 20w50 oil (API SF or lower!) in order to get the rings to bed in. Best thing is run it for a minimum 500 miles slowly increasing rpm - then run a compression test and if all four cylinders are holding greater that 160-170 PSi and are within 10-15lb of each other - only then move it onto "Better Quality oil". Valvoline Racing Mineral 20w50 all the way for me.
Do a search on oils - It's been done to death on the Mini section of PH...
FWDRacer said:
Always fill the filter up (and put a fresh smear of oil on the seal) - don't do this and extreme cases see the oil pump trying to suck up fresh air and then getting a sort of cavitation in the oil system. Not good.
Do not put 10w40 near the freshly built engine. It needs to run for the first 500 miles on a poor quality 20w50 oil (API SF or lower!) in order to get the rings to bed in. Best thing is run it for a minimum 500 miles slowly increasing rpm - then run a compression test and if all four cylinders are holding greater that 160-170 PSi and are within 10-15lb of each other - only then move it onto "Better Quality oil". Valvoline Racing Mineral 20w50 all the way for me.
Do a search on oils - It's been done to death on the Mini section of PH...
I'll try get down to Halfords and get myself some Classic oil; 20/50. Everywhere is at a standstill due to the snow. Do not put 10w40 near the freshly built engine. It needs to run for the first 500 miles on a poor quality 20w50 oil (API SF or lower!) in order to get the rings to bed in. Best thing is run it for a minimum 500 miles slowly increasing rpm - then run a compression test and if all four cylinders are holding greater that 160-170 PSi and are within 10-15lb of each other - only then move it onto "Better Quality oil". Valvoline Racing Mineral 20w50 all the way for me.
Do a search on oils - It's been done to death on the Mini section of PH...
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