Lund's MG Metro 1275 Engine Build
Discussion
Cooperman said:
That'll do fine for the initial running in. Then go onto the Valvoline Racing 20w50 or a near equivalent. I just got some Castrol Classic 20w50 from mini Spares which I'm going to put in my Innocenti. My Cooper 'S' always has Valvoline.
Cheers Pete, I managed to get hold of the Tesco equivalent 20w/50 today, as well as the missing oil gauge adapter piece. I have everything I need now, barring black caliper paint. Full steam ahead! If I was really committed I could get the mini going right now. Put the radiator on, anti-freeze/water in. Test the Anti-Freeze. Set the tappets using the rule of 9, put the exhaust on and turn her over for oil pressure and then turn her over to start, let her sing for 30mins and switch off but...
Motivate me.
Motivate me.
Get on with it.
Just came across this thread by clicking what's new, started out with couple of mini's myself many years ago. Saw the date on the start of the thread, saw the number of pages and thought wow a lot of pages must be built and have updates on how it been running.
Read 14 pages only to find your still at it.
Does look really good though mate,lot of hard work gone into that. Brought back many memories of my times tinkering with the old mini's, my back aching just thinking about bending over under that bonnet.
Hope you get it going soon, will keep checking.
Just came across this thread by clicking what's new, started out with couple of mini's myself many years ago. Saw the date on the start of the thread, saw the number of pages and thought wow a lot of pages must be built and have updates on how it been running.
Read 14 pages only to find your still at it.
Does look really good though mate,lot of hard work gone into that. Brought back many memories of my times tinkering with the old mini's, my back aching just thinking about bending over under that bonnet.
Hope you get it going soon, will keep checking.
Mini_Lund said:
If I was really committed I could get the mini going right now. Put the radiator on, anti-freeze/water in. Test the Anti-Freeze. Set the tappets using the rule of 9, put the exhaust on and turn her over for oil pressure and then turn her over to start, let her sing for 30mins and switch off but...
Motivate me.
Tom - pull your finger out mate! Can't start my build until you've finished Motivate me.
FWDRacer said:
Oh, and Tom - Please man the f*ck up and get outside and finish it. It's back up above freezing now
But it's raining! ETA:
Oil Filter on, radiator back on and plumbled in, tappet clearances set (0.07mm?), fully oiled up, starter motor solenoid wiring done (I wont be winning auto-electrician of the year thats for sure!) Hubs part assembled, waiting on some more shims. Front Dunlop cones (Rich I think they are genuines as they were in MG Rover sealed packets) are in both sides. Waiting on some new knuckle joints. I hope to get her back on all 4 wheels at the weekend, but I doubt it...
Edited by Mini_Lund on Wednesday 20th January 13:37
Update biatches!
I have sprayed the callipers, albiet a little sparse with the paint in some places, but it'll do. Shims have arrived to allow me to continue with the hubs;
Thrown together;
I also took delivery of the best (most expensive) Burger King I've ever had to this day; cheers Rich
(Rears also)
I was shocked to say the least
I have sprayed the callipers, albiet a little sparse with the paint in some places, but it'll do. Shims have arrived to allow me to continue with the hubs;
Thrown together;
I also took delivery of the best (most expensive) Burger King I've ever had to this day; cheers Rich
(Rears also)
I was shocked to say the least
Edited by Mini_Lund on Friday 22 January 17:07
Mini_Lund said:
Hi guys,
I now have the 1275 radiator bracket with new rubber collets, however I'm using an early thermostat housing. Do I really require a large bore, later type w/ sandwich plate or can I get away with using the early housing?
Tom
I now have the 1275 radiator bracket with new rubber collets, however I'm using an early thermostat housing. Do I really require a large bore, later type w/ sandwich plate or can I get away with using the early housing?
Tom
Mini_Lund said:
Hi guys,
I now have the 1275 radiator bracket with new rubber collets, however I'm using an early thermostat housing. Do I really require a large bore, later type w/ sandwich plate or can I get away with using the early housing?
Tom
Hello Tom,I now have the 1275 radiator bracket with new rubber collets, however I'm using an early thermostat housing. Do I really require a large bore, later type w/ sandwich plate or can I get away with using the early housing?
Tom
Firstly I'd like to say reading your build has been very useful, as I am doing something similar myself. Looks like your making a good job of it.
Also, with reference to the above quote - did you ever get reply on this? I am currently having trouble trying to figure out the cooling set up and any info would be useful!
Cheers,
Dan.
danoldo said:
Hello Tom,
Firstly I'd like to say reading your build has been very useful, as I am doing something similar myself. Looks like your making a good job of it.
Also, with reference to the above quote - did you ever get reply on this? I am currently having trouble trying to figure out the cooling set up and any info would be useful!
Cheers,
Dan.
Hi Dan,Firstly I'd like to say reading your build has been very useful, as I am doing something similar myself. Looks like your making a good job of it.
Also, with reference to the above quote - did you ever get reply on this? I am currently having trouble trying to figure out the cooling set up and any info would be useful!
Cheers,
Dan.
I just noticed that your profile states you're in Cheshire, where abouts are you?
I am currently using a 998 thermostat housing. However, the housing is of a smaller bore to that of the 1275 one. You're probably best using the 1275 setup for optimum cooling/flow. As the MG cylinderhead does not have a bypass hose, I have drilled 4 small holes in the actual thermostat to compensate for the lack of flow due to the loss of the bypass - I have heard however, that the engine takes a while longer to heat up, but it should'nt effect it all that much.
I hope this helps, all the best,
Tom.
Just a note of what i found using Green Stuff pads in my s disc's with a servo.
After 18 months of daily use with a 1380, the disc contact area was reduced by 3/8" all the way round the outside, so i presumed they were too hard for my use.
So i went back to fitting unipart pads.
The red stuff pads are, as stated on the website:
"Now only recommended for road use in cars with 200BHP+"
Ps very nice build
After 18 months of daily use with a 1380, the disc contact area was reduced by 3/8" all the way round the outside, so i presumed they were too hard for my use.
So i went back to fitting unipart pads.
The red stuff pads are, as stated on the website:
"Now only recommended for road use in cars with 200BHP+"
Ps very nice build
Edited by R4NDY on Monday 1st February 17:38
Are those adjustable tie rod arms? - I was looking at a set yesterday at Bingley Hall, but walked away as I didn't see the point in buying them and setting them to standard setting! I did however purchase myself some black bonnet pins, which look spot on - keep the black and vermillion theme going. I also bought a pair of new front seatbelts, new old-stock, unopened Kangol ones.
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