Lund's MG Metro 1275 Engine Build
Discussion
I sadly lost all motivation. I hope to be getting stuck in soon enough. I sadly lost all motivation
MOTIVATION come on get on with it summer on its way do we have to get all the mini nuts on here to come and kick your back side lol
heres a lot of motivation
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/index.php?sho...
MOTIVATION come on get on with it summer on its way do we have to get all the mini nuts on here to come and kick your back side lol
heres a lot of motivation
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/index.php?sho...
Update:
Where do I begin...
The engine is back out on the bench, flywheel and clutch pulled to get to the oil pump to which I can now confirm wasn't sitting right. Unfortunately the cam has taken the forefront of the damage, but only minor and shouldn't affect things too much.
I had the shock of my life when a drop of water came out of the gearbox sump plug!
It was an anti freeze colour and thinking back, when I pulled the hose off the end of the water pump silly Lund forgot to cover the hole in the breather and a drop poured in, I believe that is the cause... (I hope!)
The top of the oil pump is bone dry as you can see from the pic. Yes this was removed like this!
I filed the burr on the cam and washed it all out and re-tryed the oil pump, which as you can see from the image is now sitting right:
I'll clean it all up again with panel wipe, fit my new gaskets and new pump (although it probably doesnt need to be replaced), loctite and torque the bolts and refit the flywheel. The engine is looking a tad scruffy, so I'll give it a good clean before it goes back in.
Your thoughts please...
Where do I begin...
The engine is back out on the bench, flywheel and clutch pulled to get to the oil pump to which I can now confirm wasn't sitting right. Unfortunately the cam has taken the forefront of the damage, but only minor and shouldn't affect things too much.
I had the shock of my life when a drop of water came out of the gearbox sump plug!
It was an anti freeze colour and thinking back, when I pulled the hose off the end of the water pump silly Lund forgot to cover the hole in the breather and a drop poured in, I believe that is the cause... (I hope!)The top of the oil pump is bone dry as you can see from the pic. Yes this was removed like this!
I filed the burr on the cam and washed it all out and re-tryed the oil pump, which as you can see from the image is now sitting right:
I'll clean it all up again with panel wipe, fit my new gaskets and new pump (although it probably doesnt need to be replaced), loctite and torque the bolts and refit the flywheel. The engine is looking a tad scruffy, so I'll give it a good clean before it goes back in.
Your thoughts please...
Edited by Mini_Lund on Friday 2nd April 13:40
guru_1071 said:
tom
glad to see i was right!
heres an idea
once you have the motor built, put a oil guage on it and spin it over with the starter before you take it off the bench - that way you will know 100% that pressure is good and there before you fit it all back in.
it should be running by monday!
Hi Rich, glad to see i was right!
heres an idea
once you have the motor built, put a oil guage on it and spin it over with the starter before you take it off the bench - that way you will know 100% that pressure is good and there before you fit it all back in.
it should be running by monday!
Good Idea, I'll give it a go tomorrow. What amount of pressure should I be looking for (plugs out and all)? I'm still not convinced that it will get pressure, inevitably theres too much to go wrong!
It would be running and back on all four's by monday, but I could do with some swivel pin rubbers
I took the opportunity to touch up all of the bolts that had started to rust with some black enamel, certainly tidied it up abit. I might have got a little carried away
only touched up the block mind you.
Cheers,
Tom
Success...Kinda!
She fired up. I had the engine running for a good 10 minutes, finally set the leads and distributer up and she was idling, sounded really good
However, and this is a huge however, I noticed a bubble between the cylinder head and block...b
ks its a mixture of water/antifreeze & oil.
I might have had the cylinderhead gasket on the wrong way round - The holes lines up either way, except for one copper seal... (second in from top right)
I really don't know why I overlooked it previously, but I'm sending the cylinder head in for a skim etc.
You didnt think it was going to be that easy did you? Oh bks!
She fired up. I had the engine running for a good 10 minutes, finally set the leads and distributer up and she was idling, sounded really good
However, and this is a huge however, I noticed a bubble between the cylinder head and block...bks its a mixture of water/antifreeze & oil. I might have had the cylinderhead gasket on the wrong way round - The holes lines up either way, except for one copper seal... (second in from top right)
I really don't know why I overlooked it previously, but I'm sending the cylinder head in for a skim etc.
You didnt think it was going to be that easy did you? Oh b
ks!Edited by Mini_Lund on Monday 5th April 16:37
guru_1071 said:
tom
i would have just let it cool down and re torqed the head, then seen what it was like.
good to see its running though - thus ends the longest mini engine rebuild EVER!
Hi Rich, I have sent you an email to north minispares i would have just let it cool down and re torqed the head, then seen what it was like.
good to see its running though - thus ends the longest mini engine rebuild EVER!
I did try re-torque the head, but the torque settings were all correct. I'll have the head skimmed, new gasket and complete this engine build once and for all!Cheers, Tom.
I'm no expert and always ask questions to improve myself and my ability to look after my motors but I have always fitted copper head gaskets as I'm sure I had read/heard that they were much better in terms of longevity/reliability etc.
In fact only last week I replaced mine after 4-5 years of total reliability only because the alternator seized 4 miles from home, melting and snapping the belt - further compounded by my cavalier attitude winding the windows down to dissipate the smoke/steam for the last 2-3 miles and just letting her boil.
As it happens I had decided to change the gasket, mainly because I had one in the garage but truefully the gasket was fine and I could have just bunged on the alternator I also had kicking about with a new belt (cost me all of £4 ) oh and £6 for the new plugs as I carelessly snapped two putting the head down (MUPPET!)
In fact only last week I replaced mine after 4-5 years of total reliability only because the alternator seized 4 miles from home, melting and snapping the belt - further compounded by my cavalier attitude winding the windows down to dissipate the smoke/steam for the last 2-3 miles and just letting her boil.
As it happens I had decided to change the gasket, mainly because I had one in the garage
but truefully the gasket was fine and I could have just bunged on the alternator I also had kicking about with a new belt (cost me all of £4 ) oh and £6 for the new plugs as I carelessly snapped two putting the head down (MUPPET!)Ben Magoo said:
I'm no expert and always ask questions to improve myself and my ability to look after my motors but I have always fitted copper head gaskets as I'm sure I had read/heard that they were much better in terms of longevity/reliability etc.
In fact only last week I replaced mine after 4-5 years of total reliability only because the alternator seized 4 miles from home, melting and snapping the belt - further compounded by my cavalier attitude winding the windows down to dissipate the smoke/steam for the last 2-3 miles and just letting her boil.
As it happens I had decided to change the gasket, mainly because I had one in the garage but truefully the gasket was fine and I could have just bunged on the alternator I also had kicking about with a new belt (cost me all of £4 ) oh and £6 for the new plugs as I carelessly snapped two putting the head down (MUPPET!)
Hi Ben, as you are able to tell I am no expert either! Although not afraid to ask. I am actually really concerned at the moment and fear the worst - a few people have suggested that the block could be cracked? That would explain the water coming out of the gearbox sump plug and all over the cylinder head. Sending the cylinder head to be machined and have 'the works' tomorrow..In fact only last week I replaced mine after 4-5 years of total reliability only because the alternator seized 4 miles from home, melting and snapping the belt - further compounded by my cavalier attitude winding the windows down to dissipate the smoke/steam for the last 2-3 miles and just letting her boil.
As it happens I had decided to change the gasket, mainly because I had one in the garage
but truefully the gasket was fine and I could have just bunged on the alternator I also had kicking about with a new belt (cost me all of £4 ) oh and £6 for the new plugs as I carelessly snapped two putting the head down (MUPPET!)Mini_Lund said:
a few people have suggested that the block could be cracked
tomare these the same people who suggested that you started the car and reved it until the oil pressure appeared last time?
i have never seen a mini block crack, ever, the water will be from the head gasket or a cracked head (rare enough)
ive had blocks cold enough that the core plugs have blown out as the water froze and hot enough that the solder melted (220 degrees plus). that one got so hot it cooked the pistons, bent the cam, and left a blue heat ring in the water ways - it seized solid it was so hot.
next morning it fired up ok...... it ran raced again once it was rerung & recammed!.
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