Lund's MG Metro 1275 Engine Build

[Mini_Lund]

Thanks guys I'll give all of the above a good try! It really wont shift. I've screwed 2 bolts onto the thread but the second bolt is giving way before the stud in the head, no matter how hard I jam them together! I'll have to pick up a new can of butane from somewhere.

In regards to my Diff and ratio, am I right in thinking I have a 3:1 ratio?

minimadmotorman said:

Get the head face down on something flat and tough with a hole for the stud and give it a clout with a BFH!

As for duplex. A 1275 A+ wont have duplex as standard. benefit of duplex is less stretch so your cam timing stays more accurate.

Cam's are only timed dot to dot in the factory and this isnt necessarily the optimum. If you use a cast duplex setup and an appropriate offset key you could unlease a few ponies without spending much money at all.

The problem is , I'm unaware of what the cam is! Will I need to know what Cam it is to time it in correctly? - I also have no idea on cam timing or how to do it... brilliant!

Edited by Mini_Lund on Friday 6th February 11:04

[minimadmotorman]

Sounds like a 3.1 to me. Good diff with a 1275 & 10" wheels.

[minimadmotorman]

As for the cam. You can pull it to identify it. Get yourself vizards book and the ultimate mini engine building dvd. Should help you get the gist of most things.

[Mini_Lund]

minimadmotorman said:

Sounds like a 3.1 to me. Good diff with a 1275 & 10" wheels.

Brilliant. What sort of top speed would I be looking at, hopefully it's more keyed for acceleration and town driving, aswel as fun on the lanes.

Think I'll pull the cam out and see what it is. Is this a good idea? Basically just so I know what I've got.

[Skyedriver]

[quote=Mini_Lund]screwed 2 bolts onto the thread quote]

nuts?

My 1330 had a 3.1 with both 10" & 12" wheels it went well, now fitted with a 3.4 but back to being a dust collecting shelf in the garage at the minute due to unforseen problems elsewhere.

(including a second deer strike in 3 years!)

[minimadmotorman]

Top speed if the engine has sufficient power will be around the 110 mark at 6000rpm in 4th.
Should still accelerate nice too and cruise at 70mph at 3850rpm

[minimadmotorman]

always a good idea to pull the cam if you are giving the engine a refresh then you can see if its in good fettle.

[Mini_Lund]

minimadmotorman said:

always a good idea to pull the cam if you are giving the engine a refresh then you can see if its in good fettle.

Cheers for the response guys, I'll have to have a look at how to remove more engine components, as I have no idea now it comes down to the nitty gritty. This is all a learning curve for me. I'm 19, but thats no excuse! And sorry yes, I meant to say Nuts rather than bolts.

Oh and on another note, I managed to remove the head stud from the cylinder head

[minimadmotorman]

by what method?

[Mini_Lund]

minimadmotorman said:

by what method?

I got the work bench out (which has several holes in it) layed the cylinder head down flat, screwed a nut onto the bolt and it then met my friend 'Thor hammer' out of the garage cupboard

Again I will sound stupid, but I have removed all of the bolts on the timing cover and noted whereabouts they go, but I cannot remove the cover due to the pulley on the end of the crankshaft, do I have to undo the crankshaft bolt or will the pulley come off without undoing this bolt? I really have no idea.

Edited by Mini_Lund on Friday 6th February 16:59

[robminiman]

Mini_Lund said:

I'm 19, but thats no excuse!

that isnt an excuse im only 17 and just finnished rebuilding my engine and gear box as well so al find out this weekend if it actually work as il putting the engine back in this weekend

[robminiman]

Mini_Lund said:

Again I will sound stupid, but I have removed all of the bolts on the timing cover and noted whereabouts they go, but I cannot remove the cover due to the pulley on the end of the crankshaft, do I have to undo the crankshaft bolt or will the pulley come off without undoing this bolt? I really have no idea.

Edited by Mini_Lund on Friday 6th February 16:59

erm take the bolt out of the end of the crank and take the pully off, them the cover will come off then remove the timing gear and then you can tke the back plate off and there will be the oil pump remove that then the cam will come out

good luck

[Mini_Lund]

There are no markings on the cam. Therefore, is it standard?

[guru_1071]

id guess so.

nice use of 'xmas' sweet tins there!!!

[Mini_Lund]

guru_1071 said:

id guess so.

nice use of 'xmas' sweet tins there!!!

Oh right, well there doesn't seem to be any wear and tear, maybe its a cam out of a GTA or a Turbo? Apparently it has been changed, but there were no signs to say this. & yes, the Xmas sweet tins are great for holding all of the bolts!

[Mini_Lund]

I hate to admit it but it looks like It's going to need a rebore, I wasn't intending on taking this engine build the full 9 yards, but it looks like i'm going to have to! There's quite a lip on the top of one of the bores from the pistons. Looks like I'm going to have to enquire about a re-bore, and re-grind the crank etc etc.. ££££

Power washed the full lot, dried and WD'd for now. Its all looking okay.

Edited by Mini_Lund on Saturday 7th February 17:41

[robminiman]

i apollagise for my previouse post saying 1275s had duplex timing chain.

i had mine rebored and it cost me £200 for a rebore and 4 pistons with rings and gudgen pin etc, crank regrind with thrusts and shells was £120 then i also had the cam bearings done which was £30

money very well spent

i think it was guru or cooperman who said to me "build it cheap build it twice"

[Mini_Lund]

robminiman said:

i apollagise for my previouse post saying 1275s had duplex timing chain.

i had mine rebored and it cost me £200 for a rebore and 4 pistons with rings and gudgen pin etc, crank regrind with thrusts and shells was £120 then i also had the cam bearings done which was £30

money very well spent

i think it was guru or cooperman who said to me "build it cheap build it twice"

Okay, I guess I'm now going the whole 9 yards! I was intending to try get away without having to rebore, but I'm still abit unsure whether or not it needs it or not? - I have a honer in the garage somwhere

Are there any specific guidelines?

I will require your advice on oversize pistons, compression ratio's, unleaded fuel and the latter.

I take it my block is standard, and will be overbored; usually about +.020 (I think) Now does that take it upto 1293, or am I going wrong somewhere?

Please do excuse all of the numpty questions, I know what I'm like, asking lots of questions rather than doing my own research...

Thanks

Edited by Mini_Lund on Sunday 8th February 11:25

[Dino42]

Mini_Lund said:

.... having to rebore, but I'm still abit unsure whether or not it needs it or not? ...Are there any specific guidelines?

Yes, but you won't have the specific equipment needed to measure the bores and crank accuratly.
It's best to take all the bits to a decent machine shop and ask their advice - they're going to do the work after all.

miniLund said:

..I will require your advice on oversize pistons, compression ratio's, unleaded fuel...

The standarc rebore sizes are:
+0.020" = 1293cc
+0.040" = 1310
+0.060" = 1330
Just go to the next one up from what the block's at now. (You can't assume it's standard now btw)
Minispares 21251 pistons are fine for a road engine.

Aim for a compression ratio of something like 9.75:1

Unleaded fuel: it's really a question of whether your head has hardened inserts in the exhaust seats, if not you can use an additive.

Edited by Dino42 on Sunday 8th February 11:55

[Mini_Lund]

Dino42 said:

Mini_Lund said:

.... having to rebore, but I'm still abit unsure whether or not it needs it or not? ...Are there any specific guidelines?

Yes, but you won't have the specific equipment needed to measure the bores and crank accuratly.
It's best to take all the bits to a decent machine shop and ask their advice - they're going to do the work after all.

miniLund said:

..I will require your advice on oversize pistons, compression ratio's, unleaded fuel...

The standarc rebore sizes are:
+0.020" = 1293cc
+0.040" = 1310
+0.060" = 1330
Just go to the next one up from what the block's at now. (You can't assume it's standard now btw)
Minispares 21251 pistons are fine for a road engine.

Aim for a compression ratio of something like 9.75:1

Unleaded fuel: it's really a question of whether your head has hardened inserts in the exhaust seats, if not you can use an additive.

Edited by Dino42 on Sunday 8th February 11:55

I know I'm only asking the obvious, but thanks for the replies so far

I'll strip the engine to the bare block and get some enquiries from birkenhead engines.