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eltax91
Original Poster
4,311 posts
75 months
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Hi all I have a 200tdi 90 and I'm in the middle of a cam belt change. Fluids and pipes out, fan cowling off, then I'm stuck. For some reason, the fan will not move. I've doused it several times in plus gas, have a high tensile bolt wedged in water pump hole, up against a breaker bar secured between engine and front, then levered my 32mm viscous fan spanner with my jack handle it it still won't budge! Am I correct that the 200tdi is a left hand thread? I have tried both way but not a bean. Any tips, or do I hack the f  king thing off and replace the pump and fan? I don't remember it being this difficult on my old 200tdi disco!
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300bhp/ton
26,483 posts
59 months
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IIRC they are reverse threaded and can be tight. Make sure you are on the nut correctly too. Good luck! 
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eltax91
Original Poster
4,311 posts
75 months
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300bhp/ton said: IIRC they are reverse threaded and can be tight. Make sure you are on the nut correctly too. Good luck! Thanks! I think I'm getting a decent grip on the nut, although the spanner has a swan neck on it, it does slip eventually. Anyone know if the nut is 32mm? I have a fan spanner I bought, with a 32 and 36mm end, as I bought it for my old disco 200Tdi, I assumed it would be the same on the Defender. Access is tight, but it certainly feels the right size.
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wombat172a
1,355 posts
52 months
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In terms of access, is it not easier to take the front panel out?
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Norse_mann
47 posts
73 months
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I've a 300tdi but I think the fan is the same.
It is a reverse thread and can be tight, It can be a bugger as the engine turns as you are trying to undo it - I tend to pop it into difflocked 1st gear and that should stop the engine moving too making it easier to undo the bolt.
Putting it back on is even more fun!
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eltax91
Original Poster
4,311 posts
75 months
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Norse_mann said: I've a 300tdi but I think the fan is the same.
It is a reverse thread and can be tight, It can be a bugger as the engine turns as you are trying to undo it - I tend to pop it into difflocked 1st gear and that should stop the engine moving too making it easier to undo the bolt.
Putting it back on is even more fun! I tried that, but it still wouldn't move, so I've not got a breaker bar running from engine block to rad inlet. Then a very strong high tensile bolt through water pump hole, wedged against the bar. Still nothing, if i lever it with the jack handle it just slips eventually. Wondering if i have the right spanner
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eltax91
Original Poster
4,311 posts
75 months
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kooky guy
343 posts
35 months
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Ratherthan applying strain, have you tried a sharp rap to the end of the spanner with a hammer?
That's all I needed to do on my Rangey to release the viscous.
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viggen114
252 posts
122 months
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Had this last week on my 300tdi.
I ended up getting new timing cover plate, viscous, pulley and fan blade.
Most parts are Land Rover supplied only.
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eltax91
Original Poster
4,311 posts
75 months
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kooky guy said: Ratherthan applying strain, have you tried a sharp rap to the end of the spanner with a hammer?
That's all I needed to do on my Rangey to release the viscous. Yep. With huge f k off lump hammer! Felt like the spanner was flexing and taking up the shock! Is it possible to remove pump and fan as a complete unit?
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HarryW
11,313 posts
138 months
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eltax91 said: kooky guy said: Ratherthan applying strain, have you tried a sharp rap to the end of the spanner with a hammer?
That's all I needed to do on my Rangey to release the viscous. Yep. With huge f k off lump hammer! Felt like the spanner was flexing and taking up the shock! Is it possible to remove pump and fan as a complete unit? A heavy shock/tap has worked for me in the past on other lumps when all else has failed. Struggling to see where you go. Are you 100% going the right way. Another trick on seized bolt/turny things is to shock it both ways, seems counter intuitive but tightening up can help release too....
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eltax91
Original Poster
4,311 posts
75 months
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HarryW said: eltax91 said: kooky guy said: Ratherthan applying strain, have you tried a sharp rap to the end of the spanner with a hammer?
That's all I needed to do on my Rangey to release the viscous. Yep. With huge f k off lump hammer! Felt like the spanner was flexing and taking up the shock! Is it possible to remove pump and fan as a complete unit? A heavy shock/tap has worked for me in the past on other lumps when all else has failed. Struggling to see where you go. Are you 100% going the right way. Another trick on seized bolt/turny things is to shock it both ways, seems counter intuitive but tightening up can help release too.... As you look at the engine from the front, I'm going right (clockwise). The bloody thing wont shift!! I'm starting to wonder if a previous owner damaged the head, it looks ok, but as you know, access it limited to see. Something I have not tried is to wedge a chisel into the fins on the metal bit that attaches the fan to the pump. Are these fixed, or will they just rotate with the fan? I might have a go at removing the pump and fan all in one.
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cpas
1,475 posts
109 months
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eltax91 said: As you look at the engine from the front, I'm going right (clockwise). The bloody thing wont shift!! I'm starting to wonder if a previous owner damaged the head, it looks ok, but as you know, access it limited to see.
Something I have not tried is to wedge a chisel into the fins on the metal bit that attaches the fan to the pump. Are these fixed, or will they just rotate with the fan?
I might have a go at removing the pump and fan all in one. Looking from the front, you should be going left/anti-clockwise as it is a reverse thread. May help
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HarryW
11,313 posts
138 months
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With the fan spanners I've used in the past they are quite flimsy and do flex. If you have an extra pair of hands to pre tension it, you should be able to tap it better with your lump hammer.
It should be a LH thread and undoing CW looking to the front sounds right. A quick check of the fan running direction should confirm it. It will be tightening as it turns, you need to be going the opposite way.
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cpas
1,475 posts
109 months
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cpas said: eltax91 said: As you look at the engine from the front, I'm going right (clockwise). The bloody thing wont shift!! I'm starting to wonder if a previous owner damaged the head, it looks ok, but as you know, access it limited to see.
Something I have not tried is to wedge a chisel into the fins on the metal bit that attaches the fan to the pump. Are these fixed, or will they just rotate with the fan?
I might have a go at removing the pump and fan all in one. Looking from the front, you should be going left/anti-clockwise as it is a reverse thread. May help Having looked at my car yesterday, I think I was wrong in what I said above. You were going the correct way after all!!!
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eltax91
Original Poster
4,311 posts
75 months
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Well, I've tried going both ways and still failed miserably! Even with a spare pair of hands holding the spanner it won't budge. The spanner just slips on the nut in the end.
So, any quick and dirty ways around this problem?
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JimexPL
1,342 posts
81 months
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If you take the rad out can't you get a socket on the bolt and a decent breaker bar?
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JimexPL
1,342 posts
81 months
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Also take the opportunity to give the rad a good soak and get rid of any mud!
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eltax91
Original Poster
4,311 posts
75 months
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JimexPL said: If you take the rad out can't you get a socket on the bolt and a decent breaker bar? No, the nut for the fan is between the fan itself and the water pump. So, you have around 10mm to work with to get the spanner in.  If you are back up in Leicestershire anytime soon (it was you with the red v8 on our laneing trip wasn't it?), then feel free to pop in for a cuppa, even if just to point and laugh! 
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JimexPL
1,342 posts
81 months
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Sounds like an angle grinder to the fan is the solution then...
Yes it was me. Spare time up in Leicestershire has been limited recently, but it would be good to catch up.
James
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