Defender wheels - what are the biggest tyres I can use?
Discussion
Topic resurrection - I run 265 75 16 BFG Mud Terrain KM2s on my Defender, and they have been pretty good on-road. Awful in snow though - so I have found a cheap set of 5 General Grabber AT2s on steel wheels, which I will run in the Alps over the winter. Not perfect snow tyres, but they are M+S rated and have the North American triple peak mountain/snowflake stamp, so are at least somewhat suited to cold conditions; and enough that the gendarmerie will not make me fit chains when driving about (intend to get some anyway as easier than putting studs into the AT2s when things get really icy).
Question to 300 and the other LR chaps though - am I going to have offset/spacing/wheel nut problems? My MTs are on ZU alloys (pic below), and the new tyres are 286 75 16 on steel wheels. Am I going to need spacers to prevent the car from rubbing when on full lock? No idea what the comparative offsets of the steels vs my alloys are, as I pick them up next week. Would have liked a narrower tyre as better at cutting through hardpack, but given I got 5 wheels with 11mm of tread on 5 black Weller style wheels for 400, I am going to live with the compromise.
PS - OP and others. Yes, thin tyres are better on road, probably better for all sorts of things (look at armed forces defenders - they are on skinnies). But fat tyres look better. See below for my 90 on 265 16 75 BFG MTs
Muddy Land Rover by baconrashers, on Flickr
Question to 300 and the other LR chaps though - am I going to have offset/spacing/wheel nut problems? My MTs are on ZU alloys (pic below), and the new tyres are 286 75 16 on steel wheels. Am I going to need spacers to prevent the car from rubbing when on full lock? No idea what the comparative offsets of the steels vs my alloys are, as I pick them up next week. Would have liked a narrower tyre as better at cutting through hardpack, but given I got 5 wheels with 11mm of tread on 5 black Weller style wheels for 400, I am going to live with the compromise.
PS - OP and others. Yes, thin tyres are better on road, probably better for all sorts of things (look at armed forces defenders - they are on skinnies). But fat tyres look better. See below for my 90 on 265 16 75 BFG MTs
Muddy Land Rover by baconrashers, on Flickr
Edited by Harry Flashman on Friday 1st November 11:24
Steel wheels will need different wheel nuts to those used on factory alloys.
As for the offset, it's hard to tell without knowing what exact rims you are going for. The tyres are fairly chunky, so I'd hope they are on an 8" wide rim or wider.
They may well cause rubbing on the radius arms under full lock. Personally this isn't really a problem. However it bothers some people.
Fixes would be to adjust the steering stops (very easy). To reduce the lock and thus prevent the tyre hitting the radius arm. But you'll potentially increase your turning circle and they'll need adjusting again when you swap wheels.
You could run some wheel spacers, this effectively increases the offset ET by moving the wheels outwards. Many people run spacers without issue, while others spit venom at such ideas. You could run spacers only the front if you wanted. However quality spacers are not cheap to buy.
I'd probably just put up with it and simply not turn the steering wheel as far.
As for the offset, it's hard to tell without knowing what exact rims you are going for. The tyres are fairly chunky, so I'd hope they are on an 8" wide rim or wider.
They may well cause rubbing on the radius arms under full lock. Personally this isn't really a problem. However it bothers some people.
Fixes would be to adjust the steering stops (very easy). To reduce the lock and thus prevent the tyre hitting the radius arm. But you'll potentially increase your turning circle and they'll need adjusting again when you swap wheels.
You could run some wheel spacers, this effectively increases the offset ET by moving the wheels outwards. Many people run spacers without issue, while others spit venom at such ideas. You could run spacers only the front if you wanted. However quality spacers are not cheap to buy.
I'd probably just put up with it and simply not turn the steering wheel as far.
Harry
Most steel wheels for Defenders use taper nuts rather than the fat tube style ones the OEM and I think your Zu alloys use.
The need for spacers or not will depend on the offset of the steel wheels, if they are around zero offset the I would suspect no spacers are needed , maybe a small tweak of the steering lockstops. If the steelies are standard 33?mm offset then rubbing would be expected and you could either restrict steering angle with the steering lockstops or fit the fairly common 30mm wheel spacers . Check the wheels when they arrive for taper nut seats and the offset (ET) number which would hopefully be stamped on the rear hub face or nearby.
Nuts and spacers are plentiful on ebay or at any online Landie specialist.
Most steel wheels for Defenders use taper nuts rather than the fat tube style ones the OEM and I think your Zu alloys use.
The need for spacers or not will depend on the offset of the steel wheels, if they are around zero offset the I would suspect no spacers are needed , maybe a small tweak of the steering lockstops. If the steelies are standard 33?mm offset then rubbing would be expected and you could either restrict steering angle with the steering lockstops or fit the fairly common 30mm wheel spacers . Check the wheels when they arrive for taper nut seats and the offset (ET) number which would hopefully be stamped on the rear hub face or nearby.
Nuts and spacers are plentiful on ebay or at any online Landie specialist.
Harry Flashman said:
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/reshington/9202378160/]
Wibble.[recovers from swoon]
That looks mint.
I am presently sat in the office with a new RDX grill and the Predator wheels for my new Landie which is having the dealer finishing-touches done. Cannot wait to get mine on the road next week - will post pics of course.
300bhp/ton said:
Steel wheels will need different wheel nuts to those used on factory alloys.
As for the offset, it's hard to tell without knowing what exact rims you are going for. The tyres are fairly chunky, so I'd hope they are on an 8" wide rim or wider.
They may well cause rubbing on the radius arms under full lock. Personally this isn't really a problem. However it bothers some people.
Fixes would be to adjust the steering stops (very easy). To reduce the lock and thus prevent the tyre hitting the radius arm. But you'll potentially increase your turning circle and they'll need adjusting again when you swap wheels.
You could run some wheel spacers, this effectively increases the offset ET by moving the wheels outwards. Many people run spacers without issue, while others spit venom at such ideas. You could run spacers only the front if you wanted. However quality spacers are not cheap to buy.
I'd probably just put up with it and simply not turn the steering wheel as far.
Thanks 300 (and Fredd1e). I'm picking the wheels/tyres up on Sunday. Will order some new wheel nuts and a locking set. Not worried about rubbing - although just looked at my car with lock on full, and there are no issues with the current ZU alloys and 265 wheels; if offset on new wheels + wider tyres give me a problem, I will live with it if minor. If major, will buy decent spacers. I am not doing and serious off-roading - this is for snow use in the Alps over winter, so not too fussed about using spacers.As for the offset, it's hard to tell without knowing what exact rims you are going for. The tyres are fairly chunky, so I'd hope they are on an 8" wide rim or wider.
They may well cause rubbing on the radius arms under full lock. Personally this isn't really a problem. However it bothers some people.
Fixes would be to adjust the steering stops (very easy). To reduce the lock and thus prevent the tyre hitting the radius arm. But you'll potentially increase your turning circle and they'll need adjusting again when you swap wheels.
You could run some wheel spacers, this effectively increases the offset ET by moving the wheels outwards. Many people run spacers without issue, while others spit venom at such ideas. You could run spacers only the front if you wanted. However quality spacers are not cheap to buy.
I'd probably just put up with it and simply not turn the steering wheel as far.
Interestingly, chap I am buying them from also turned out t have used them on his 90 for a season out in Chamonix last winter, and was very happy with their performance in snow. These Grabber AT2s they have the triple peak/snowflake mark, so are properly snow rated, unlike my Mud Terrains. In the (ery light) snow last winter, my tyres were downright scary on compacted snow...hence my decision to change them before heading for the Alps.
If my Mud Terrains were not on nice alloys, I'd flog them - but I like the ZUs and can't be bothered swapping tyres between rims (and as you said - my rims may be the incorrect size for 285s anyway). Into the garage they go!
Edited by Harry Flashman on Friday 1st November 13:26
Digga said:
Harry Flashman said:
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/reshington/9202378160/]
Wibble.[recovers from swoon]
That looks mint.
I am presently sat in the office with a new RDX grill and the Predator wheels for my new Landie which is having the dealer finishing-touches done. Cannot wait to get mine on the road next week - will post pics of course.
As a shooting and skiing vehicle though, it's pretty good.
One thing, fellow Land Rover folk - any tips on improving the Td5's woeful heating system (I'll be in the Alps, after all!). Does blanking off part of the radiator actually work, or is that an old wives' tale? I reckon the latter, because even when the car is fully warmed through, the heater is pathetic. 12v cabin heater? Not sure I want to go through the expense of one of those Webasto diesel heaters.
Edited by Harry Flashman on Friday 1st November 13:29
fredd1e said:
Harry
Most steel wheels for Defenders use taper nuts rather than the fat tube style ones the OEM and I think your Zu alloys use.
The need for spacers or not will depend on the offset of the steel wheels, if they are around zero offset the I would suspect no spacers are needed , maybe a small tweak of the steering lockstops. If the steelies are standard 33?mm offset then rubbing would be expected and you could either restrict steering angle with the steering lockstops or fit the fairly common 30mm wheel spacers . Check the wheels when they arrive for taper nut seats and the offset (ET) number which would hopefully be stamped on the rear hub face or nearby.
Nuts and spacers are plentiful on ebay or at any online Landie specialist.
Very stupid question - is there an easy way to tell the offset just by looking at them?Most steel wheels for Defenders use taper nuts rather than the fat tube style ones the OEM and I think your Zu alloys use.
The need for spacers or not will depend on the offset of the steel wheels, if they are around zero offset the I would suspect no spacers are needed , maybe a small tweak of the steering lockstops. If the steelies are standard 33?mm offset then rubbing would be expected and you could either restrict steering angle with the steering lockstops or fit the fairly common 30mm wheel spacers . Check the wheels when they arrive for taper nut seats and the offset (ET) number which would hopefully be stamped on the rear hub face or nearby.
Nuts and spacers are plentiful on ebay or at any online Landie specialist.
Hi People, have been off of the internet for a while. Have run the 285/75 for a few thousand miles now, including some fast Autobahn routes. I was worried that the tread pattern would be a distinct disadvantage and would, “rumble”, I was wrong. (I'll quaify that in a mo)
The tyres are ……wicked…… and boy oh boy do they look the part……
I ran them for a while without spacers, but they hit the front suspension (or something), I added spacers and the problem was not only resolved, but I got back my turning circle (well what turning circle there is on a Defender).
The car is restricted to 93mph and I have done this (Autobahn - where the legal limit does allow) and they performed brilliantly. The car does 93mph, not 94, it will only do 93. It will also hold that speed hour on hour with a full compliment of people and luggage.
Would I recommend the 285/75-16 Muds on the road …… yes defo …… but I must qualify that recommendation. It was great for ME, I like the look of the big tyres, I like to know I can go anywhere at any time. It is, “OK”, it does not rumble …… IMHO
However, if you are used to running road tyres, and are comparing them to this …..then they DO rumble – in comparison.
Lastly about 6000 miles down the road and I can’t see where they are worn – at all – at this rate, they will last the life of the car
Boy oh Boy do they look the part …..
The tyres are ……wicked…… and boy oh boy do they look the part……
I ran them for a while without spacers, but they hit the front suspension (or something), I added spacers and the problem was not only resolved, but I got back my turning circle (well what turning circle there is on a Defender).
The car is restricted to 93mph and I have done this (Autobahn - where the legal limit does allow) and they performed brilliantly. The car does 93mph, not 94, it will only do 93. It will also hold that speed hour on hour with a full compliment of people and luggage.
Would I recommend the 285/75-16 Muds on the road …… yes defo …… but I must qualify that recommendation. It was great for ME, I like the look of the big tyres, I like to know I can go anywhere at any time. It is, “OK”, it does not rumble …… IMHO
However, if you are used to running road tyres, and are comparing them to this …..then they DO rumble – in comparison.
Lastly about 6000 miles down the road and I can’t see where they are worn – at all – at this rate, they will last the life of the car
Boy oh Boy do they look the part …..
Right, fitted these today - snow rated 285/75/16 General Grabber AT2s.
Bit of a bargain - just over 400 pounds for a set of 5 with 3000 miles on them, on black modular steel rims - tyres alone are 160 or so each new.
Even compared to my former mud terrains (seen in the pic of my car above) these are enormous - much wider. Wheels have a decent offset so no spacers required, but the car has a very wide stance. Absolutely fine at the front, but I am a bit worried about the back ones rubbing the front of the arches under heavy load/compression (my car has no suspension lift). Will be fine for what I'll be using it for (road driving in cold conditions), but I wouldn't want to try any offroading on my setup.
Will post pics when I take some.
Bit of a bargain - just over 400 pounds for a set of 5 with 3000 miles on them, on black modular steel rims - tyres alone are 160 or so each new.
Even compared to my former mud terrains (seen in the pic of my car above) these are enormous - much wider. Wheels have a decent offset so no spacers required, but the car has a very wide stance. Absolutely fine at the front, but I am a bit worried about the back ones rubbing the front of the arches under heavy load/compression (my car has no suspension lift). Will be fine for what I'll be using it for (road driving in cold conditions), but I wouldn't want to try any offroading on my setup.
Will post pics when I take some.
Edited by Harry Flashman on Wednesday 20th November 00:28
Harry Flashman said:
Bit of a bargain
Does sounds like a bargain, I used the 285's for a few hundred miles with no spacers, but eventually gave in, I am/was running the standard SVX wheels, and the fronts hit on full lock (If Defenders do have full lock) and the back was ok, but had minimal clearance, so if I was ever going to run chains in thick snow, I'd have to put in spacers. So I put the spacers in now, as opposed to waiting for snow 
I like the black grill and head light surrounds on your defender, I think it sets the car off nicely, also can you run your bull bars without taking off the front bumper, for the look I want, I'm afraid I'm looking to copy you
... But hey ..... imitation is the greatest form of flattery ..... Sarge 4x4 said:
If you are fitting 30mm spacers and running 285's I hope you like cleaning your Defender
I forgot this ....... yes, Sarge is smack on with this ........ forgot to mention it ..... ooops ....... I do like the pretty patterns down the whole side of the car, its makes beautiful swirl shapes all over the complete side of the car from front to back....... quite arty really ..... Lucky I have a Albanian car washing team about 500 yards from my house, they make a fab job
But you WILL have pretty patterns on the side of your car, I'll try and take a photo next time ...... won't be long ......
This is the clearnace problem that I had .......
This is the rear wheel and I think I'm running a 30mm spacer, and the tyre distance from the Spring/Suspension is about 35mm, hence my keeness to add the spacers. Funny, one side had about 8 - 10 mm, whilst the other side only ran about 5mm (Probably special, "Defender", tolerances)
With these spacers on, I can run chains with no stress at all
This is the rear wheel and I think I'm running a 30mm spacer, and the tyre distance from the Spring/Suspension is about 35mm, hence my keeness to add the spacers. Funny, one side had about 8 - 10 mm, whilst the other side only ran about 5mm (Probably special, "Defender", tolerances
)With these spacers on, I can run chains with no stress at all
Harry Flashman said:
Right, fitted these today - snow rated 285/75/16 General Grabber AT2s.
I am a bit worried about the back ones rubbing the front of the arches under heavy load/compression (my car has no suspension lift). Will be fine for what I'll be using it for (road driving in cold conditions), but I wouldn't want to try any offroading on my setup.
I would think the rear would be fine tbh, and even if they do rub it won't really do anything.I am a bit worried about the back ones rubbing the front of the arches under heavy load/compression (my car has no suspension lift). Will be fine for what I'll be using it for (road driving in cold conditions), but I wouldn't want to try any offroading on my setup.
Edited by Harry Flashman on Wednesday 20th November 00:28
These are a 33.11.50R15 on 10x15 steel rims with a a deep dish off set and are taller and wider than the AT2's you have, and have bigger lugs.
They just about cleared, maybe a slight rub on the inner edge of the flare.
The front was arguably closer and full lock would have meant more rubbing I think.
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