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Discussion
Yes, early S2s have the same wheelnuts as S1s. You can see that the hub has a filler/drain as well which is not present on the 2a.
On the subject of not painting things, I have had to paint the bulkhead, radiator panel and rear tub because repair was necessary but the rest of the Birmabright has the original paint on the outer surface (unpainted inside) and this has been cleaned and polished to blend with the new paint:
The original paint has lovely patina in places and it would have been a crying shame to have obliterated this:
And not forgetting that CrossflowKid was going to kill me with a spoon if I had painted it
On the subject of not painting things, I have had to paint the bulkhead, radiator panel and rear tub because repair was necessary but the rest of the Birmabright has the original paint on the outer surface (unpainted inside) and this has been cleaned and polished to blend with the new paint:
The original paint has lovely patina in places and it would have been a crying shame to have obliterated this:
And not forgetting that CrossflowKid was going to kill me with a spoon if I had painted it
Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 6th October 09:39
Cfnteabag said:
Series 1 and series 2 wheel nuts have a chamfer both ends. Used to get it all the time when I had my series 2, people telling me my wheel nuts were fitted wrongly
Standard or otherwise it looks awful; I'm surprised that a company like Rover would put vehicles out the door with nuts hanging off the ends of the studs like that. Orthodoxy is to have the end of the stud level with or slightly proud of the face of the nut.hidetheelephants said:
Cfnteabag said:
Series 1 and series 2 wheel nuts have a chamfer both ends. Used to get it all the time when I had my series 2, people telling me my wheel nuts were fitted wrongly
Standard or otherwise it looks awful; I'm surprised that a company like Rover would put vehicles out the door with nuts hanging off the ends of the studs like that. Orthodoxy is to have the end of the stud level with or slightly proud of the face of the nut.300bhp/ton said:
Lots of people say this. But think about it, a wheel nut with a cap/closed end doesn't. So having the same nut with the end open doesn't make it any less affective.
A cap or a dome nut protects from clag and rust, as does having the stud flush or slightly proud. with threads exposed inside the nut it can fill with clag and promote rust which is not readily removed with a wire brush(landrover maintenance tool no.3). A small detail but an irritating one.Just had to check my nuts, as i can't say I've ever considered there was anything untoward with them 
They are as per milesr3 picture (ie: curved at both ends and overhanging). I can't say that there's any rust to be seen, but then again the 1950's hardware seems to wear a whole lot better than the metalwork on later models.
ps. If i have any critisism about the wheels on milesr3' fab rebuild, it those awfully shiny centre caps! Shocking!
They are as per milesr3 picture (ie: curved at both ends and overhanging). I can't say that there's any rust to be seen, but then again the 1950's hardware seems to wear a whole lot better than the metalwork on later models.
ps. If i have any critisism about the wheels on milesr3' fab rebuild, it those awfully shiny centre caps! Shocking!
Edited by CY88 on Wednesday 7th October 16:09
Cfnteabag said:
Series 1 and series 2 wheel nuts have a chamfer both ends. Used to get it all the time when I had my series 2, people telling me my wheel nuts were fitted wrongly
Cheers, didn't know that. Obviously, I need them for mine! http://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/wheel-nut-217...
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