Range Rover Classic as a Daily Drive?
Discussion
DonkeyApple said:
911Thrasher said:
Env, Eversleigh: I have a question: I use my 96 soft dash every day...as an old truck it has the built of well an old English truck.
On super smooth, it's as good as anything, but when I hit potholes, speedbumps, etc. the center dash tends to squeak: hard plastic I suppose.
Even my old R107 SL300, old 964/993 Porsches don't squeak as much. Actually they are squeak free, but were also designed in the 70's
Do you experience the same?
Wondering what can be done to eliminate those.
Squeak seems anomalous. I've never had that in any of mine or noticed in others. My first though was whether someone had not refitted the dash properly?On super smooth, it's as good as anything, but when I hit potholes, speedbumps, etc. the center dash tends to squeak: hard plastic I suppose.
Even my old R107 SL300, old 964/993 Porsches don't squeak as much. Actually they are squeak free, but were also designed in the 70's
Do you experience the same?
Wondering what can be done to eliminate those.
So, here are a few for sale:
This one looks to have been loved, but looking at what he has spent on the engine and what he has changed, I'm starting to think the problem might be low compression? Still, maybe an engine rebuild is easier than a chassis rebuild! Is also only 20 mins from me...
This one could be interesting, I particularly like the fact that he will put it up on a lift for inspection, but it does (for me) mean slight budget-creep.
The there is this one which doesn't have a lot of info but sounds like it' worth a look? And it's PARKED ON GRAVEL
Bit further away from me but spookily I do have to head up that way tomorrow.
Nothing on Gumtree right now and all the ones on AT are at dealers' and have already had Desirability Tax applied.
This one looks to have been loved, but looking at what he has spent on the engine and what he has changed, I'm starting to think the problem might be low compression? Still, maybe an engine rebuild is easier than a chassis rebuild! Is also only 20 mins from me...
This one could be interesting, I particularly like the fact that he will put it up on a lift for inspection, but it does (for me) mean slight budget-creep.
The there is this one which doesn't have a lot of info but sounds like it' worth a look? And it's PARKED ON GRAVEL
Bit further away from me but spookily I do have to head up that way tomorrow.Nothing on Gumtree right now and all the ones on AT are at dealers' and have already had Desirability Tax applied.
No 1. Shortish MOT. Has running issues. Needs a diagnostic & to be fully sorted to run on petrol before doing anything to the LPG. Could be as simple as a duff ignition amplifier or coolant temperature sensor - or not. Body looks OK & the pics show the rear arches, but the later ones (relative term really as the newest RRC is going to be at least 19!)rot worse than the early ones, so a thorough look underneath.
No 2. New MOT. Patches on sills is a slight concern as once they start to go you finish up with more patches than sill! Lift it up & have a thorough look underneath.
No 3. New MOT. Top tailgate looks badly rusted & in need of replacement. Rust visible on sills & at bottom of rear wheel arch. May be just surface or more may be hiding under the plastic trims. Check straps on LPG tanks - if plastic covered steel the steel can rust to nothing inside the plastic. Saggy headlining can be a PITA to re-glue as there is a foam that goes crumbly & needs to be removed or the glue won't work.
All worth a look, but don't let your heart rule your head.
Check that the transfer box works correctly.
No 2. New MOT. Patches on sills is a slight concern as once they start to go you finish up with more patches than sill! Lift it up & have a thorough look underneath.
No 3. New MOT. Top tailgate looks badly rusted & in need of replacement. Rust visible on sills & at bottom of rear wheel arch. May be just surface or more may be hiding under the plastic trims. Check straps on LPG tanks - if plastic covered steel the steel can rust to nothing inside the plastic. Saggy headlining can be a PITA to re-glue as there is a foam that goes crumbly & needs to be removed or the glue won't work.
All worth a look, but don't let your heart rule your head.
Check that the transfer box works correctly.
I quite like the third one. It's had a new lower tailgate but the seller hasn't exactly cleaned the car for sale. It just looks more honest.
The first two have both had the rear inner arches replaced so you know they have rot, the fact that they've repaired the most visible bit but probably left the base of the pillars etc can be telling.
I also don't like other people's gas fitting which again puts me off the first two. Add to that the remark about it being touched by a man who once touched a Ferrari and that's me oot. And the second one having been down in Spain would put me off as I always think those tales exist to hide issues like not being the same car.
But go and see all three.
The first two have both had the rear inner arches replaced so you know they have rot, the fact that they've repaired the most visible bit but probably left the base of the pillars etc can be telling.
I also don't like other people's gas fitting which again puts me off the first two. Add to that the remark about it being touched by a man who once touched a Ferrari and that's me oot. And the second one having been down in Spain would put me off as I always think those tales exist to hide issues like not being the same car.
But go and see all three.
Rear inner arches - esp around the seat belt bolt - are a very common problem on both the RRC & the Disco 1. Due to the reinforcing plate spot welded to the underside of the arch which has the welded on nut for the bolt. This is usually hidden under the carpet which is glued to the arch.
I did both of mine some years ago.
I did both of mine some years ago.
Edited by paintman on Monday 1st December 13:41
DonkeyApple said:
The first two have both had the rear inner arches replaced so you know they have rot, the fact that they've repaired the most visible bit but probably left the base of the pillars etc can be telling.
Thanks all for the input. Interesting point above, there was me thinking "good, it's had those bits done" without thinking about what they might be hiding. It's a shame about the engine on the one near me. As I said above, with all the parts he has thrown at it, I'm wondering whether it might be an actual engine problem rather than a sensor/ancillary/fuel issue. It will probably be bid up a fair bit yet anyway I guess.With the D reg one, double check that it has the 4 speed ZF gearbox, not the 3 speed Chrysler Torqueflite. 1986 was the changeover year IIRC and the ZF is a world on from the clunky old Torqueflite.
Get under them and prod them about. Check a pillars, boot floor, front bulkhead as far as possible and rear inner wheel arches. They hide rust in the steel body tub scarily well!
Get under them and prod them about. Check a pillars, boot floor, front bulkhead as far as possible and rear inner wheel arches. They hide rust in the steel body tub scarily well!
ClaphamGT3 said:
With the D reg one, double check that it has the 4 speed ZF gearbox, not the 3 speed Chrysler Torqueflite. 1986 was the changeover year IIRC and the ZF is a world on from the clunky old Torqueflite.
Mines an 86 on a 'C' & its the ZF.All 3 of the ones pictured have the ZF box.
The 1991 should have the BW transfer box & viscous coupling which replaced the LT230 with its manually operated centre difflock - check the top of the transfer box knob, the BW just goes backwards & forwards, whereas the LT230 will have what looks like a figure 8 on top. The BW is much quieter than the LT230.
The Torqueflite was only used for a short period, introduced for the 1983MY and replaced with the ZF for the 1986MY. (Its actually a very strong box & popular for some of the more outrageous engine conversions!)
paintman said:
ClaphamGT3 said:
With the D reg one, double check that it has the 4 speed ZF gearbox, not the 3 speed Chrysler Torqueflite. 1986 was the changeover year IIRC and the ZF is a world on from the clunky old Torqueflite.
Mines an 86 on a 'C' & its the ZF.All 3 of the ones pictured have the ZF box.
The 1991 should have the BW transfer box & viscous coupling which replaced the LT230 with its manually operated centre difflock - check the top of the transfer box knob, the BW just goes backwards & forwards, whereas the LT230 will have what looks like a figure 8 on top. The BW is much quieter than the LT230.
The Torqueflite was only used for a short period, introduced for the 1983MY and replaced with the ZF for the 1986MY. (Its actually a very strong box & popular for some of the more outrageous engine conversions!)
I haven't managed to get to any of them yet. However, the gravel one has been reduced….which tells me there may be scope for further reduction! I need to try and find a way of getting to see it.
I asked the guy with the faulty engine one some questions but have not had any response yet.
I asked the guy with the faulty engine one some questions but have not had any response yet.
Well, I was going to have a look at the one near me today but it has gone up considerably in price overnight and will almost certainly make more and I don't want to punt too much on something with undefined problems.
What is the view on the LSE? Good, bad or ugly? This one *could* be a bargain for someone (despite the "4.7" engine!) but it's way too far for me to look at or consider: LSE in Bridgend
What is the view on the LSE? Good, bad or ugly? This one *could* be a bargain for someone (despite the "4.7" engine!) but it's way too far for me to look at or consider: LSE in Bridgend
Welsh LSE is "broken" - no surprise there! So you'll never know
Opinions seem to be divided. I like mine and actively wanted one but others feel the proportions are a bit out. You can't tell from the drivers seat. Passenger space is fantastic.
Just watch the LSE only bits, so doors and door cards. Spare doors are getting really expensive, I saw a set at £700 a pair! I need a door card and they aren't easy to find.
The doors are standard ones with a 8" section welded in. They rust badly on the bottom on these seems so look carefully under the door.
Opinions seem to be divided. I like mine and actively wanted one but others feel the proportions are a bit out. You can't tell from the drivers seat. Passenger space is fantastic.
Just watch the LSE only bits, so doors and door cards. Spare doors are getting really expensive, I saw a set at £700 a pair! I need a door card and they aren't easy to find.
The doors are standard ones with a 8" section welded in. They rust badly on the bottom on these seems so look carefully under the door.
Well here's another Bargain LSE for someone. Aside from the incredible value for money this represents, I'm particularly taken by the stunning condition, the left-open window, the offer of placing a non-refundable deposit, and the option of carrying out a quick inspection but don't even think about running any diagnostics, but above all, the prospect of dealing with the lovely chap pictured in the advert just completely sells it to me!
CAPP0 said:
Well here's another Bargain LSE for someone. Aside from the incredible value for money this represents, I'm particularly taken by the stunning condition, the left-open window, the offer of placing a non-refundable deposit, and the option of carrying out a quick inspection but don't even think about running any diagnostics, but above all, the prospect of dealing with the lovely chap pictured in the advert just completely sells it to me!
I don't even know where to start... Well, I'm off to look at one tomorrow. As well as general chassis condition, I'll work my way front to back through:
- inner wings
- bulkhead
- bottom of A/B/C pillars
- sills
- rear arches/seatbelt points
- boot floor
As I think I have mentioned before, I have an L322 and a V8 90, and therefore little or no use for a Classic, but I just want one!! It's become a box which needs to be ticked!
- inner wings
- bulkhead
- bottom of A/B/C pillars
- sills
- rear arches/seatbelt points
- boot floor
As I think I have mentioned before, I have an L322 and a V8 90, and therefore little or no use for a Classic, but I just want one!! It's become a box which needs to be ticked!
Under the bonnet look where the inner wing meets the bulkhead. Look for either rot or a bodged replacement.
Check the base of the A pillars for same.
Likewise the arches of the rear door aperture. Biggest clue is usually bad welds.
In the boot just remove trim from right hand side and look around fuel filler and wheel arch.
Underneath just check for spalding around the rear chassis mounts.
Once you've seen a few you'll get the hang as to exactly what you are looking for. They are dead simple to check out.
Driving them is a little more tricky but you need to look for play in steering, transmission, transfer case but you do need to drive a few before you get a feel for the good ones.
Enjoy.
Check the base of the A pillars for same.
Likewise the arches of the rear door aperture. Biggest clue is usually bad welds.
In the boot just remove trim from right hand side and look around fuel filler and wheel arch.
Underneath just check for spalding around the rear chassis mounts.
Once you've seen a few you'll get the hang as to exactly what you are looking for. They are dead simple to check out.
Driving them is a little more tricky but you need to look for play in steering, transmission, transfer case but you do need to drive a few before you get a feel for the good ones.
Enjoy.
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