Series 1 advice / warnings please
Discussion
Whilst at a petrol station a gent drove in with a series 1. The gent was there some time getting more and more frustrated. He was walking round and round the car scratching his head. Noticing his frustration, and the answer for it, I wandered over for a chat. After pointing out his fuel tank filler was under his seat he relaxed and a nice little conversation followed whilst he brimmed his new toy.
Any way to the point of this post. My dad has an old Series 1 in the garage which hasn't started since 2003. The oil is bang on the full mark, we drained the coolant water and I know the clutch will be seized on but??? What should I do / check before putting a battery on her and pressing the button. All advice very greatly received.
Any way to the point of this post. My dad has an old Series 1 in the garage which hasn't started since 2003. The oil is bang on the full mark, we drained the coolant water and I know the clutch will be seized on but??? What should I do / check before putting a battery on her and pressing the button. All advice very greatly received.
m60ddy said:
Whilst at a petrol station a gent drove in with a series 1. The gent was there some time getting more and more frustrated. He was walking round and round the car scratching his head. Noticing his frustration, and the answer for it, I wandered over for a chat. After pointing out his fuel tank filler was under his seat he relaxed and a nice little conversation followed whilst he brimmed his new toy.
Any way to the point of this post. My dad has an old Series 1 in the garage which hasn't started since 2003. The oil is bang on the full mark, we drained the coolant water and I know the clutch will be seized on but??? What should I do / check before putting a battery on her and pressing the button. All advice very greatly received.
I would change the oil and oil filter. Have the series ones got a oil bath air filter like the series 3s? If they do, I would clean that out and replace with fresh oil.Any way to the point of this post. My dad has an old Series 1 in the garage which hasn't started since 2003. The oil is bang on the full mark, we drained the coolant water and I know the clutch will be seized on but??? What should I do / check before putting a battery on her and pressing the button. All advice very greatly received.
If it has a fuel filter, I would also replace that and fill the system with fresh fuel if you can.
I'm sure others will suggest some other points too.
I would try and get it going. Series 1 Land Rovers are the most valuable of all the series LRs.
Xenocide said:
I wouldn't bother changing the oil. It's been in the ground for 400 million years, another 10 isn't going to make any difference.
I recently did a similar thing to what the OP is suggesting with a 91 RRC that had been stood 6 years and the oil was in absolutely appauling condition, so considering this car has been stood longer I'd seriously suggest changing it.This is what I would do.
Remove spark plugs and give a clean.
Couple of drops of oil into the bores.
Drop the oil out of the sump. [oil floats on water & may of had condensation]
New charge of 50/20 oil.
Use starting handle and give the engine a good turning over.
Put spark plugs back in.
Check fuel tank - hopefully nearly empty... disconnect fuel pipe at carburetor and switch on ignition.... fuel pump should tick away ...if not remove cover and give the points a few moves - and try ignition again ... with removed pipe make sure the pump is working ...you may as well pump out the tank and then put a couple of fresh gallons of petrol in and run through system.
Reconnect fuel pipe.
Good chance you may get a few leaks out of the solex around spindle seals ... once you turn on pump again ... go for a start.
Best of luck !
If clutch is stuck ...I have used this method quite a few times on various cars.
Get the engine nice and warm ....put the gearbox in low ratio [and free wheel hubs if fitted] ... start up in first ...now the hard bit ...get vehicle moving ...keep foot on accelerator so engine doesnt stall and stand on brake and clutch pedal ... hopefully the brakes work and it breaks the rust on the flywheel/clutch ...you make have to repeat and repeat this ... but it does work !
Remove spark plugs and give a clean.
Couple of drops of oil into the bores.
Drop the oil out of the sump. [oil floats on water & may of had condensation]
New charge of 50/20 oil.
Use starting handle and give the engine a good turning over.
Put spark plugs back in.
Check fuel tank - hopefully nearly empty... disconnect fuel pipe at carburetor and switch on ignition.... fuel pump should tick away ...if not remove cover and give the points a few moves - and try ignition again ... with removed pipe make sure the pump is working ...you may as well pump out the tank and then put a couple of fresh gallons of petrol in and run through system.
Reconnect fuel pipe.
Good chance you may get a few leaks out of the solex around spindle seals ... once you turn on pump again ... go for a start.
Best of luck !
If clutch is stuck ...I have used this method quite a few times on various cars.
Get the engine nice and warm ....put the gearbox in low ratio [and free wheel hubs if fitted] ... start up in first ...now the hard bit ...get vehicle moving ...keep foot on accelerator so engine doesnt stall and stand on brake and clutch pedal ... hopefully the brakes work and it breaks the rust on the flywheel/clutch ...you make have to repeat and repeat this ... but it does work !
budrover said:
This is what I would do.
Remove spark plugs and give a clean.
Couple of drops of oil into the bores.
Drop the oil out of the sump. [oil floats on water & may of had condensation]
New charge of 50/20 oil.
Use starting handle and give the engine a good turning over.
Put spark plugs back in.
Check fuel tank - hopefully nearly empty... disconnect fuel pipe at carburetor and switch on ignition.... fuel pump should tick away ...if not remove cover and give the points a few moves - and try ignition again ... with removed pipe make sure the pump is working ...you may as well pump out the tank and then put a couple of fresh gallons of petrol in and run through system.
Reconnect fuel pipe.
Good chance you may get a few leaks out of the solex around spindle seals ... once you turn on pump again ... go for a start.
Best of luck !
If clutch is stuck ...I have used this method quite a few times on various cars.
Get the engine nice and warm ....put the gearbox in low ratio [and free wheel hubs if fitted] ... start up in first ...now the hard bit ...get vehicle moving ...keep foot on accelerator so engine doesnt stall and stand on brake and clutch pedal ... hopefully the brakes work and it breaks the rust on the flywheel/clutch ...you make have to repeat and repeat this ... but it does work !
This sound like a decent plan, just need to find the right time to do it. Many thanks. MRemove spark plugs and give a clean.
Couple of drops of oil into the bores.
Drop the oil out of the sump. [oil floats on water & may of had condensation]
New charge of 50/20 oil.
Use starting handle and give the engine a good turning over.
Put spark plugs back in.
Check fuel tank - hopefully nearly empty... disconnect fuel pipe at carburetor and switch on ignition.... fuel pump should tick away ...if not remove cover and give the points a few moves - and try ignition again ... with removed pipe make sure the pump is working ...you may as well pump out the tank and then put a couple of fresh gallons of petrol in and run through system.
Reconnect fuel pipe.
Good chance you may get a few leaks out of the solex around spindle seals ... once you turn on pump again ... go for a start.
Best of luck !
If clutch is stuck ...I have used this method quite a few times on various cars.
Get the engine nice and warm ....put the gearbox in low ratio [and free wheel hubs if fitted] ... start up in first ...now the hard bit ...get vehicle moving ...keep foot on accelerator so engine doesnt stall and stand on brake and clutch pedal ... hopefully the brakes work and it breaks the rust on the flywheel/clutch ...you make have to repeat and repeat this ... but it does work !
300bhp/ton said:
I'd probably just try and start it first. If it won't, then I'd look at changing bits to get it to run. If it does, I'd then look at doing a proper full service on it.
The only snag with that plan is it may become even less likely to start by the process of trying to start it just the once.Hi all, a quick update.
After a bit of TLC, new oil and petrol etc. I finally put a new battery on it last night and have the usual good news bad news. The good news is the started spins it like a good one, all the light work even the heater fan but, and here is the request for further advice.
The fuel pump is not working??
So trying to work it out I have taken the cover off the pump and the arm is moving freely but not on It's own. Also if you imagine looking at the dash I have the green light to the bottom left but no red ignition light to the upper center. Is there a fuse which would protect this and the fuel pump??
What do you think.
Many thanks
Matt
After a bit of TLC, new oil and petrol etc. I finally put a new battery on it last night and have the usual good news bad news. The good news is the started spins it like a good one, all the light work even the heater fan but, and here is the request for further advice.
The fuel pump is not working??
So trying to work it out I have taken the cover off the pump and the arm is moving freely but not on It's own. Also if you imagine looking at the dash I have the green light to the bottom left but no red ignition light to the upper center. Is there a fuse which would protect this and the fuel pump??
What do you think.
Many thanks
Matt
m60ddy said:
Hi all, a quick update.
After a bit of TLC, new oil and petrol etc. I finally put a new battery on it last night and have the usual good news bad news. The good news is the started spins it like a good one, all the light work even the heater fan but, and here is the request for further advice.
The fuel pump is not working??
So trying to work it out I have taken the cover off the pump and the arm is moving freely but not on It's own. Also if you imagine looking at the dash I have the green light to the bottom left but no red ignition light to the upper center. Is there a fuse which would protect this and the fuel pump??
What do you think.
Many thanks
Matt
On the original Series One electrical system a single fuse protected the fuel pump amongst other things. It is on the bulkhead under the bonnet next to the dynamo regulator and fuel pump. Wiring diagrams here:After a bit of TLC, new oil and petrol etc. I finally put a new battery on it last night and have the usual good news bad news. The good news is the started spins it like a good one, all the light work even the heater fan but, and here is the request for further advice.
The fuel pump is not working??
So trying to work it out I have taken the cover off the pump and the arm is moving freely but not on It's own. Also if you imagine looking at the dash I have the green light to the bottom left but no red ignition light to the upper center. Is there a fuse which would protect this and the fuel pump??
What do you think.
Many thanks
Matt
http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.elec_88109_5458....
Ok good news it lives!!!!
I know it's been a long time but time has been hard to find. Anyway found sone time tonight and won my bet with my dad. After finding a second hand pump she fired up and purred away. Happy days.
Just got the small issue of freeing the clutch now, that should be fun??!!
I know it's been a long time but time has been hard to find. Anyway found sone time tonight and won my bet with my dad. After finding a second hand pump she fired up and purred away. Happy days.
Just got the small issue of freeing the clutch now, that should be fun??!!
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