Things that have gone wrong with your Land Rover

[55palfers]

Mine arrived today

Too many faults to mention - back to LR AUC dealer tomorrow

Oh go on, I'll just mention a few....

Deployable side steps U/S
Bluetooth U/S
No 12 months MOT only 8. Plus advisories on brake pads and shocks
Dash Warning "check all tyre pressures"
Rear parcel shelf wrong colour for interior
Previous owners detritus still languishing in car - yuk.
New door handles fitted but not actually painted in body colour
...and more


Is this the world of LR ownership? To be fair, is this the dealer though?

...but, great engine, perfect visibility, comfy ride, good handling (for a massive 4x4), top stereo, and most importantly - loads of room for 3 old farts to go fishing.

[jep]

Starter motor gave up the ghost last night, and my rear wiper parks where the hell it wants to.

[Rapid rental]

In five years of Freelander 2 ownership, the only thing that broke was the plastic cord snapped that holds the fuel cap to the filler neck. I am pretty happy with that.

[Southcoaster]

I have a 2006 4.2s/c which I have owned for the past five years,it has covered 50k miles during that period and has now done 81k overall.
It is used off and on road ,apart from normal servicing which was main dealer until three years ago I have had two sets of rear discs replaced due to seized callipers one of these fell off after being replaced within 10 miles as a result I now no longer use a main dealer!
I then engaged a local specialist who advised me not to bother using the handbrake as seized rear callipers was a common fault,I have had no brake problems since.
The only other fault has been a/c condenser and compressor failure which is being sorted.
I have of course as other members of this forum report had several issues with various warning lights coming on but switching it off and back on again had always resolved the issue,overall ,I would say that it's a reliable car that does a lot of hard work.(and no I'm not trying to sell it ! )
As an aside, my business partner has a three year old discovery and it's been an absolute dog,he has spent so much on it that he can't afford to sell It!
Maybe I've been lucky!!

[HenryJM]

Southcoaster said:

As an aside, my business partner has a three year old discovery and it's been an absolute dog,he has spent so much on it that he can't afford to sell It!
Maybe I've been lucky!!

But a three year car would be under warranty, or just out. Any issues wouldn't be costing them anything to resolve.

[Southcoaster]

You are correct,after speaking to him he says it's five years old,time flies,my apologies ,it's still been a dog though!

[A.J.M]

My front lower arms on the D3 are clunking again.
That's only 23k on the set before they went, which is shocking.
So getting a genuine set this time.

Also has an intermittant sticking rear caliper, ( not bad for 129k and 10 years old ) and needs the rear hub bushes done.
The compressor that i know is dying, is still not changed as i'm not brave enough yet to attempt it.

Plus it needs a battery, new tyres, it's got a replacement windscreen getting fitted on Monday.

Then alignment and a respray to sort out stone chips, off road damage and general scratches.

[IroningMan]

A.J.M said:

My front lower arms on the D3 are clunking again.
That's only 23k on the set before they went, which is shocking.
So getting a genuine set this time.

Also has an intermittant sticking rear caliper, ( not bad for 129k and 10 years old ) and needs the rear hub bushes done.
The compressor that i know is dying, is still not changed as i'm not brave enough yet to attempt it.

Plus it needs a battery, new tyres, it's got a replacement windscreen getting fitted on Monday.

Then alignment and a respray to sort out stone chips, off road damage and general scratches.

Non-OE parts and offroad use, I guess. Running a few classic cars has made me very wary of non-OE rubber bits: some of the stuff out there is shockingly poor quality.

Those particular bushes have a very challenging role, I think: there's a lot of compliance in them even when new. My front lowers were replaced last November - and then got an advisory at the MOT in January 1,500 road miles later.

[A.J.M]

The arms were all makes ones.
Going OEM now as every other arm has been replaced with OEM ones.
LR want stupid prices for the fronts but a dealer has them on eBay offer for a good price.

Will do the same for the hub bushes and be done with it.

Next year I'll change the air bags and dampners as I've an overland trip under planning with it.

[anonymous-user]

A.J.M said:

My front lower arms on the D3 are clunking again.
That's only 23k on the set before they went, which is shocking.
So getting a genuine set this time.

Also has an intermittant sticking rear caliper, ( not bad for 129k and 10 years old ) and needs the rear hub bushes done.
The compressor that i know is dying, is still not changed as i'm not brave enough yet to attempt it.

Plus it needs a battery, new tyres, it's got a replacement windscreen getting fitted on Monday.

Then alignment and a respray to sort out stone chips, off road damage and general scratches.

Mine's had all the same as yours although went for OE lower arms. Don't bother persevering with rear calipers, had mine stripped twice and they still stuck afterwards. Trouble is they seize and knacker both the pads and rear disc which need to be changed in pairs. If you have a problem with the caliper, get a new one put on, they aren't expensive. Mine's done 139k miles, still going strong.

[A.J.M]

I've changed one calliper already, should have got a 2nd at the same time and been done with it.

The rest I'll get to as and when funds allow.

[schmalex]

I think mine needs a replacement carburettor, or possibly a new engine. I'm trying to work the man maths such I can demonstrate to the powers that be that the amortised cost of putting an RV8 in is no different to the cost of changing the carb.

I'm struggling at the moment, to be honest, so I may just have to try and blow the 2.25 up to force a change!

[Piersman2]

Ok, RR TDV8, 2006. Bought 18 months ago with about 112K miles on it, now done about 134K.

Within the first week it split one if it's turbo hoses - £96

I replaced the front discs and pads - £100 'ish

Then after a short while it left me stranded with a dead alternator - £500

Followed shortly by a new battery - £100

Then nothing for about 20K miles of going up and down the M4 for a year, perfect. Only irritation was a slightly dicky torque convertor which would judder when going up hill or when accelerating hard'ish.

Decided to get that fixed a few weeks back as I had the cash and decided I was going to keep the car rather than spend £10K replacing it for effectively another one a couple of years younger. The new torque convertor ended up being about £1500 all in but has returned the car back to perfection.

Oh and a couple of front suspension arms and drop-links when I started getting a bit of wobble on the motorway at high speeds - £150.

The RR is perfect now, I genuinely can't thing of anything that needs attention, and I'm a fussy bugger. Everything works spot on.

Worth noting though, that according the paperwork, it had had EGR valve and injectors and gearbox oil change done by the previous owner so he at least saved me having to pay for those.

[anonymous-user]

Piersman2 said:

Ok, RR TDV8, 2006. Bought 18 months ago with about 112K miles on it, now done about 134K.

Within the first week it split one if it's turbo hoses - £96

I replaced the front discs and pads - £100 'ish

Then after a short while it left me stranded with a dead alternator - £500

Followed shortly by a new battery - £100

Then nothing for about 20K miles of going up and down the M4 for a year, perfect. Only irritation was a slightly dicky torque convertor which would judder when going up hill or when accelerating hard'ish.

Decided to get that fixed a few weeks back as I had the cash and decided I was going to keep the car rather than spend £10K replacing it for effectively another one a couple of years younger. The new torque convertor ended up being about £1500 all in but has returned the car back to perfection.

Oh and a couple of front suspension arms and drop-links when I started getting a bit of wobble on the motorway at high speeds - £150.

The RR is perfect now, I genuinely can't thing of anything that needs attention, and I'm a fussy bugger. Everything works spot on.

Worth noting though, that according the paperwork, it had had EGR valve and injectors and gearbox oil change done by the previous owner so he at least saved me having to pay for those.

Usually the judder is down to dirty ATF which can be changed for £150. Had exactly the same thing and new oil at 120k miles fixed it.

[Piersman2]

wormus said:

Usually the judder is down to dirty ATF which can be changed for £150. Had exactly the same thing and new oil at 120k miles fixed it.

Usually yes, but the paperwork showed a gearbox change had been done at 90k, probably when the judder first became apparent. The torque convertor going is not unusual, it's diagnosed mainly by the car feeling like it's driving over a cattle grid as you accelerate up hill.

I wish it has been the fluid, would have been a lot cheaper than a torque convertor!

[A.J.M]

I've had the fluid done on mine as well, i get that judder at low speeds going up hills with light throttle.
Doesn't happen every time so i'll leave it just now.

[Piersman2]

A.J.M said:

I've had the fluid done on mine as well, i get that judder at low speeds going up hills with light throttle.
Doesn't happen every time so i'll leave it just now.

That's the symptons!!

I had mine do it for over 20K miles before I decided to get it fixed, so don't panic about it, it's just a little bit annoying, especially if you have 1 steep hill with a 30mph speed camera half way up it on the way home every night.

[Bill]

AJM, where are you planning to go?


I've just tracked down the draft on the off side, I thought it was the door seals but a bit of window seal has broken off (or it's dropped down). Fixed with duck tape for the moment.

[A.J.M]

Balls, another thing to add to the list then...

Bill.

I had originally wanted to drive the length of Africa in it. However, that plan is out.
So, plan B is to partially follow both routes that LR have done with the "Road to Discovery" and the Range Rover hybrid drive down the Silk Trail. But with my own diversions off the tracks to see what's out there.
Final goal is to drive as far East as i can then stick it in a container and ship over to Australia and do some round there before heading home.

I'm 27 and have the urge for travel before i settle down to the boredom of life and kids etc.

Drawing up my list of places to visit and also what i will need for it and what else the car will need. Hence most parts replaced have had genuine ones fitted to keep it as reliable as possible.

[Clivey]

A.J.M said:

Balls, another thing to add to the list then...

Bill.

I had originally wanted to drive the length of Africa in it. However, that plan is out.
So, plan B is to partially follow both routes that LR have done with the "Road to Discovery" and the Range Rover hybrid drive down the Silk Trail. But with my own diversions off the tracks to see what's out there.
Final goal is to drive as far East as i can then stick it in a container and ship over to Australia and do some round there before heading home.

I'm 27 and have the urge for travel before i settle down to the boredom of life and kids etc.

Drawing up my list of places to visit and also what i will need for it and what else the car will need. Hence most parts replaced have had genuine ones fitted to keep it as reliable as possible.

Alan, that sounds very similar to what we want to do with out D2. - We're going to start-out by seeing everything we want to within the UK, then move on to the rest of Europe before venturing further afield. TBH the thing holding us back a little is holiday allowances from work!