Things that have gone wrong with your Land Rover

Things that have gone wrong with your Land Rover

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Discussion

twin sparky

228 posts

212 months

Wednesday 7th May 2014
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Freelander 2 (2007)

- Engine rebuild; Including valves, shell bearings and piston rings
- Clutch
- Door ECU module
- Replaced battery

What still needs to be done:
- Fuel gauge senders in the tanks fail intermittently (normally in cold weather)
- Keys need replacing.

3Dee

3,206 posts

221 months

Thursday 8th May 2014
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RRS 2012

Bought last September. Generally good car but for a couple of increasingly irritating issues, in that I have one with early dementia!

Most irritating is the propensity, and at random times the lazy exit mechanism, whereby the seat should move back, drop and steering wheel raise, does strange things, like move forward, not drop and the SWheel go down, making exit a far more challenging prospect! This has been going on since I purchased the car, but it does not happen every time. Perhaps once a week after a journey, stopping the engine and opening the door, it will unceremoniously shunt me into the steering wheel, much to the amusement of onlooker! The car has been back to the dealer at least 4 times over the last 6 months, but they often can't reproduce. In fact they did only once... however they have replace the seat module and something else I can't remember... and although the frequency of the incidents have been reduced, it still happens... unexpectedly. Last time it happened I noticed the dash display showed 'retrieving memory 3' (which I don't use... and no.. I made sure my hands were nowhere near the buttons) which was odd as I only use memory 1 setting!

The second issue is the Sat-nerve, which sometimes, during a journey will announce that it is recalculating a new route due to traffic change (or something like) - sounds cool, but then it starts reports a change multiple times (up to 10 times on monday) within a few miles on a straight motorway... which doesn't seem right? Subsequent investigations as to the route on the day and times in question, on accidents or diversions, came up with nothing, and it lost me 2 hrs in my journey of 70 miles on motorway and duel carriageway.

Mustang Baz

1,632 posts

234 months

Thursday 8th May 2014
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See my comments here

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Quite material issues with steering/front suspension to start with but all covered by warranty satisfactory.

FiF

44,049 posts

251 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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Freelander2 2010 52k

Rear shocker leak replaced warranty
Rear diff whine low level repair warranty
Heated windscreen stone into it. Insurance.
Rear diff attempted theft covered elsewhere also caused replacement of entire prop shaft. Not insurance frown
Rear diff slight oil weep. Waiting parts
Rear main oil seal. Very slight weep. Keeping an eye on it.

twin sparky

228 posts

212 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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FiF said:
Rear diff attempted theft covered elsewhere also caused replacement of entire prop shaft. Not insurance frown
How did they damage the rear diff? Did they try and tow it away?

FiF

44,049 posts

251 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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twin sparky said:
FiF said:
Rear diff attempted theft covered elsewhere also caused replacement of entire prop shaft. Not insurance frown
How did they damage the rear diff? Did they try and tow it away?
No they tried to unbolt it. Got the two bolts on the rear chassis member out then failed to get at the two high up at the front or they were disturbed. We don't know.

Anyway the diff came loose from the mountings sufficiently to bugger the rear cvj on the prop. Those aren't sold anywhere except as complete 2 pce shafts 550 smackers just for the parts and I am guessing this latest oil weep might be a legacy.

I asked if it was possible that the bolts had just come loose but garage and rozzers convinced attempted theft. Problem is nobody knows where it took place as it drove fine until a bit of heavy right boot exiting a rough and muddy farm entrance shifting things enough.

schmalex

13,616 posts

206 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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My list for my 1984 S3 (in chronological order):

  • Chassis snapped
  • Headlight failed
  • Indicator failed
  • All electrics failed
  • Big fire in engine bay (was fixed by thrasing it with a bunch of nettles on a green lane. Still works fine)
  • Speedo failed (still doesn't work)
  • Chassis snapped again (in a different place)
  • Clutch overheated and failed (was fine once cooled off, though)
  • Exhaust fell off
  • Engine hot start issue
  • Brake master cylinder failed
  • Chassis snapped again (in a different place again!)
I think I've been pretty lucky to be honest, as none of it is major, expensive or terminal.



Edited by schmalex on Monday 12th May 15:26

Ayahuasca

Original Poster:

27,427 posts

279 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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WTF are you doing to your chassis?

Bill

52,693 posts

255 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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Nothing major eekhehe

A.J.M

7,901 posts

186 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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I can add an issue with the front air suspension..

It drops the nose down overnight, but the rear stays up. So my indy is coming to have a look on friday to see what's up.

Possible leak or maybe a faulty block. Given it's 9 1/2 years old, i can't really moan at it.

Ayahuasca

Original Poster:

27,427 posts

279 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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As my headlights stopped working I thought it must be the fuses, but no, the fuses are fine. The bulbs I am assuming are fine (one is brand new and why would they both fail simultaneously?) so what else can it be? Confuddled.


schmalex

13,616 posts

206 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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Ayahuasca said:
WTF are you doing to your chassis?
Nothing too major to be honest! There is a local pay & play site near me and every time I go up there, I think to myself "the old boy's knocking on 30, so I won't do the big drop offs". However, it's quite fun showing the lifted Disco's how to get up and down stuff properly and a couple of times I've come off a drop that's slightly steeper than I think, or land the crossmember on a rock slightly harder than I think and just put a hairline crack in it.

It's coming off the road next year or a full overhaul (inc Galvanised chassis), so it's no big deal. It certainly won't be doing any difficult stuff after that!

schmalex

13,616 posts

206 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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Ayahuasca said:
As my headlights stopped working I thought it must be the fuses, but no, the fuses are fine. The bulbs I am assuming are fine (one is brand new and why would they both fail simultaneously?) so what else can it be? Confuddled.
On mine, there is a 2nd set of fuses behind the lower dash on the driver's side. That caught me out when my electrics failed, as a fuse behind there had worked its way loose...

A.J.M

7,901 posts

186 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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Ayahuasca said:
As my headlights stopped working I thought it must be the fuses, but no, the fuses are fine. The bulbs I am assuming are fine (one is brand new and why would they both fail simultaneously?) so what else can it be? Confuddled.
Your Lucas electrical smoke levels are low. Go to a dealer and get them topped up.

robm3

4,927 posts

227 months

Monday 12th May 2014
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897sma said:
2008 D3 79k miles..... and also a turbo - which needs the body jacking off to fix!!!
I was talking to Ayers Automotive (indie in Sydney) and they showed me the official Land Rover repair guide for D3 Turbo replacement.
Goes like this:

1. Disconect Battery
2. Remove Bodyshell
3. .......

With so many 2.7 diesels getting on a bit now, this is going to be a big business.

Which I why I brought the 'rare' 4.0 petrol D3 with steel suspension as my 'knock about' car.

IroningMan

10,154 posts

246 months

Tuesday 13th May 2014
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robm3 said:
897sma said:
2008 D3 79k miles..... and also a turbo - which needs the body jacking off to fix!!!
I was talking to Ayers Automotive (indie in Sydney) and they showed me the official Land Rover repair guide for D3 Turbo replacement.
Goes like this:

1. Disconect Battery
2. Remove Bodyshell
3. .......

With so many 2.7 diesels getting on a bit now, this is going to be a big business.

Which I why I brought the 'rare' 4.0 petrol D3 with steel suspension as my 'knock about' car.
D3 body lift is only a couple of hours' worth - nothing like as drastic a job as it seems at face value. I wouldn't want to entrust it to anyone other than a specialist, mind you.

A.J.M

7,901 posts

186 months

Tuesday 13th May 2014
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This is why I'm glad I have a decent Indy who doesn't rip people off...

Mine can change a turbo with the body ON. biggrin

Also, he comes to you so it's possible to do it on the driveway.
Plus, most turbo "failures" are actuator sticking which can be sorted for an hours work and about £6.

Ask me how I know that... wink


897sma

3,356 posts

144 months

Tuesday 13th May 2014
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robm3 said:
897sma said:
2008 D3 79k miles..... and also a turbo - which needs the body jacking off to fix!!!
I was talking to Ayers Automotive (indie in Sydney) and they showed me the official Land Rover repair guide for D3 Turbo replacement.
Goes like this:

1. Disconect Battery
2. Remove Bodyshell
3. .......
It's at the dealers now...just had a call that they've found an oil leak on the front diff which I can add to my current list frown ...I thought oil leaks were std on all Land Rover products to stop the chassis rotting!

Edit to add: Suspension Compressor and a CV Boot grumpy


Edited by 897sma on Thursday 15th May 11:03

jep

1,183 posts

209 months

Thursday 15th May 2014
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Update:

Active suspension warning light on and now won't go into access or extended height modes.

Aydena

125 posts

141 months

Thursday 15th May 2014
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1998 Discovery 1.

Crank pulley slipped smashing the crank nose to pieces... New engine, clutch, Cambelt etc

Headlights working when they want.

Rear prop donut failed

Front UJ failed

Vaccum pump stopped "vacuuming"

Lift pump sprung a leak

Handbrake cable seized overnight

Handbrake shoes dropped and jammed

Front wheel bearing failed

Front swivel bearings are shot

Body panels disappearing

Etc etc