Things that have gone wrong with your Land Rover
Discussion
My "project" - an '04 Discovery 2 TD5 Auto ES Premium 7-Seat. 77k miles.
- Original Becker Traffic Pro Headunit (now replaced by something from this century)
- Both sunroofs have had to be repaired (including the motor on the front one) after leaking
- Spot lights (genuine LR)
- It's previously had all injectors replaced
- It's previously had the air springs & height sensors replaced (rear SLS)
- Various oil leaks
- Front driver's side coil spring needs replacing
- The rubber trim around the door windows needs replacing
schmalex said:
My list for my 1984 S3 (in chronological order):
I love how having your chassis snap not once, but twice, is considered "not that big a deal" in the LR-owning fraternity. I'm including myself in that fraternity (despite being a girl) as my 90's chassis was more than a little 'religious', shall we say, by the time it was swapped out for a nice galv one. When we took the body off and saw what little was left, rather than gasping in shock, we were quite pleasantly surprised that what *was* left (around all the gaping holes etc) was pretty solid, all things considered. - Chassis snapped
- Headlight failed
- Indicator failed
- All electrics failed
- Big fire in engine bay (was fixed by thrasing it with a bunch of nettles on a green lane. Still works fine)
- Speedo failed (still doesn't work)
- Chassis snapped again (in a different place)
- Clutch overheated and failed (was fine once cooled off, though)
- Exhaust fell off
- Engine hot start issue
- Brake master cylinder failed
- Chassis snapped again (in a different place again!)
Edited by schmalex on Monday 12th May 15:26
We have a 1990 '90 and 1990 130, both rebuilt, but the rebuild of the 90 was the learning curve.
Previous owner had "rewired" extensively but obviously bought his cabling in bulk and only used red. Handy. Wiring out the stop solenoid was another genius move on his part.
On the 130, just one catastrophic engine failure 3 days before shipping to the US for a 6 month vacation. various water pumps and expansion tanks but nothing else quite as bad as the engine blowing up.
Siscar said:
2006 Range Rover TDV8 - nothing
2008 Range Rover TDV8 - nothing
2011 Range Rover TDV8 - windscreen wiper motor, caused by icing but fixed under warranty
2013 Range Rover TDV8 - nothing
Same with my 2008 RR TDV8. I've had it 6 years now - from new - and it has never skipped a beat. Can't see any reason to buy a new one to be honest, much as I like the look of the new cars from LR. Superb car. 2008 Range Rover TDV8 - nothing
2011 Range Rover TDV8 - windscreen wiper motor, caused by icing but fixed under warranty
2013 Range Rover TDV8 - nothing
Defender 110 CSW TD5 one of the first off the production line.
Abs failure. Chassis rust at the rear, rusted from the inside out so didn't spot it for 3 years. Rear door broke in half. Crankshaft sensor. Fuel pump failure, too the tank out and the support plate fell apart in my hands. I thought I was pretty lucky tbh.
I got paranoid about big bills and sold it.
Abs failure. Chassis rust at the rear, rusted from the inside out so didn't spot it for 3 years. Rear door broke in half. Crankshaft sensor. Fuel pump failure, too the tank out and the support plate fell apart in my hands. I thought I was pretty lucky tbh.
I got paranoid about big bills and sold it.
Had a D2 from new that went back to the dealership 11 times (5 of which on a low loader) in the first 18 months. Luckily Mrs Get drove it into a tree and put it out of it's misery. Insurance paid 28% of new value, as they said the car was known to be utterly hopeless.
The only time I've ever agreed with an insurance company.
The only time I've ever agreed with an insurance company.
Did you shout HOUSE when it happened...
Get the codes read for that.
Starter for you.
Check battery, how old is it, a duff cell then throw the system in a huff.
Check Alternator, as above, a dying one can still run but throw up all sorts of s
t.
Park brake switch.
Foot brake switch.
Check all bulbs, a blown bulb can trip out the systems.
Get the codes read for that.
Starter for you.
Check battery, how old is it, a duff cell then throw the system in a huff.
Check Alternator, as above, a dying one can still run but throw up all sorts of s
t.Park brake switch.
Foot brake switch.
Check all bulbs, a blown bulb can trip out the systems.
KieronGSi said:
Battery, alternator and bulbs are all checked and working fine. Do you know where the foot brake switch is? Car is LHD.
It's literally under the foot brake pedal. It's a cheap part but if you replace it. You cannot move the foot brake pedal, giving that a bump knocks the system out of sync.Do you have a handy dealer nearly?
A.J.M said:
It's literally under the foot brake pedal. It's a cheap part but if you replace it. You cannot move the foot brake pedal, giving that a bump knocks the system out of sync.
Do you have a handy dealer nearly?
Googled it after i asked on here and as you say it's very easy to get out even for a simpleton like me, currently trying to open the bDo you have a handy dealer nearly?
d thing to check for black dust inside it. Dealers is 10 minutes from here but will probably charge four times the UK price. Also didn't touch the pedal. 
Checked on the disco 3 site and the dedicated LROC, quite a few saying it could be this switch. There is even a guide on disco 3. My switch has the black marks that are showing on the example attached.
Got it booked into my trusted indy just in case but they can't fit me in until Monday.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/displayimage.php?a...
Got it booked into my trusted indy just in case but they can't fit me in until Monday.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/displayimage.php?a...
Had a D2 from new in 2003 and still have it 98k later.
its had
3* air flow meters
1* rear hub ( oil seal failed and killed abs sensor)
2* exhaust manifold studs
1* fuel pipes ( Bodged recall by main stealer)
Its also had an intercooler repair but i cant blame lr for that as its a JE-engineering one.. I had the ecu/intercooler/turbo upgrade at 2 weeks old to just shy of 200bhp.. That probably helped the afm's on their way, and the increased EGT probably caused the manifold warp and stud snap..
The car spent the first 6 years towing a heavy race car trailer and full of tools...
other than the above its had a set of disks, and 2 sets of pads plus 2 sets from tyres and 1 set of rears.... oh and the original battery needs changing, probably do that this week..
Other than that nothing..... probably less issues in 11 years than my wifes fiesta in 2!! and the less said about m mates 911 the better lol
its had
3* air flow meters
1* rear hub ( oil seal failed and killed abs sensor)
2* exhaust manifold studs
1* fuel pipes ( Bodged recall by main stealer)
Its also had an intercooler repair but i cant blame lr for that as its a JE-engineering one.. I had the ecu/intercooler/turbo upgrade at 2 weeks old to just shy of 200bhp.. That probably helped the afm's on their way, and the increased EGT probably caused the manifold warp and stud snap..
The car spent the first 6 years towing a heavy race car trailer and full of tools...
other than the above its had a set of disks, and 2 sets of pads plus 2 sets from tyres and 1 set of rears.... oh and the original battery needs changing, probably do that this week..
Other than that nothing..... probably less issues in 11 years than my wifes fiesta in 2!! and the less said about m mates 911 the better lol
Do tell.A.J.M said:
Jep, I would recommend getting the oil pump casing changed as well.
There is an issue with 07 ones cracking after the belts have been done and causing the tensioner bolt to sheer, and then you need a new engine..
This has just happened to me. Just been assessed by main dealer & report going off to Landrover Customer Services tomorrow. It seems that even at this age & 165,000 miles I may get a reasonable contribution (with a bit of negotiation) from Landrover, fingers crossed. The proviso seems to be full service history is a must (which I have), I'll report back on progress.There is an issue with 07 ones cracking after the belts have been done and causing the tensioner bolt to sheer, and then you need a new engine..
A.J.M said:
It's literally under the foot brake pedal. It's a cheap part but if you replace it. You cannot move the foot brake pedal, giving that a bump knocks the system out of sync.
Do you have a handy dealer nearly?
I had a battery specialist check the car, then my favoured Indy and both said the battery was fine. Indy said the Transmission Control Module wouldn't let them read the codes and referred me to the Dealers (At this point the car decided not to start and to lock itself in park and the handbrake wouldn't release). Dealers fitted new battery and reconfigured the TCM to the car and all is working properly again. Safe to say i won't be going back to the Indy for electrical problems again. Do you have a handy dealer nearly?
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