RRC Starting Problem

RRC Starting Problem

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Discussion

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,624 posts

204 months

Tuesday 10th March 2015
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RicksAlfas said:
I bought a cable from the Rovergauge man as I couldn't be bothered to make my own.
It plugs in under the driver's seat into a white three pronged connector.
At the moment it should be plugged into an earthing connector, so you split it to plug Rovergauge in.
Hope that makes sense!

Found this image:
http://www.paulslore.com/aulro/IMG_3804.JPG

In normal use those two white halves should be connected.
Thanks - have just ordered one, electronics and soldering are not my strong point so I could do without any false readings as a result of blobbing solder across a pair or contacts!

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,624 posts

204 months

Wednesday 11th March 2015
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Well, the cable arrived today. Installed Rovergauge and the drivers, connected up, and Compuer Says No….Fault Found furious

No error codes, everything green, I can run (and hear) the fuel pump from the software, etc etc etc.

Back round in a big circle. Still looking for the voltage-drop needle in the complex-loom haystack.

Plus, I mistakenly left my (decent) battery charger under the bonnet, which promptly fell onto the exhaust manifold and melted.

Anyone want to buy an RRC? rolleyes

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,624 posts

204 months

Thursday 12th March 2015
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I'm on a course all week this week so I only had a few minutes to play around last night but will check that next.

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,624 posts

204 months

Saturday 14th March 2015
quotequote all
Yes, there's a spark when cranking, and, in the latest development…..WET PLUGS.

So, I have compression, fuel, a spark, and it's obviously timed right (or near enough) because it eventually runs. I had a timing light on it last month and it's close to spot-on.

I did notice today that when cranking with a plug out, the spark is not as big & fat as I would like to see (also, guess which engine decided to finally start whilst there was a plug out rolleyes ). Perhaps this is linked with the "firing when key released" voltage problem. I also jumped for the battery to the positive post under the dash, where it comes in from the engine bay and feeds various things including the ECU, etc, just in case there was any issue with the connector itself, but no.

So I think I may now be heading back to ignition to see if I can find any reason why the spark seems weak when cranking. It has a new coil already.

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,624 posts

204 months

Sunday 15th March 2015
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V8 Fettler said:
but select a vendor with a good reputation.
Do you have any suggestions for brand and vendor? I'm aware of some of the issues with HT parts, and I certainly won't be buying Britpart, but would appreciate a steer. I did already replace the dist cap (Lucas-boxed) and rotor arm, one of the first things I did. I will check (ref paintman above) the rotor arm, I'm not with the car atm.

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,624 posts

204 months

Sunday 15th March 2015
quotequote all
Interesting that, I have only skimmed the link so far but is the suggestion that a remap will ease cold starting? Mine does indeed seem to be OK once it's up to temp.

I don't know anyone who has a good ECU I could try. I guess I could take a chance on buying another from ebay but that would be unproven too. Don't suppose there is anyone here with one, within striking distance of NW Kent?