RRC - Getting hot wierd symptoms !
Discussion
Hi all my 1991 3.9 RRC has been running perfectly for ages ( still drives perfectly now !!)
However it went in for a coolant flush at landrover ( well oil service and coolant change) it wasn't getting hot pre the change, it has always sat at 1/3 of the gauge.
Now its come back and its getting hot, hasn't hit the red but its nearly there, heater on full blast cools it down and then its ok but still hotter than normal
So here is what I know so far ( I am no expert at all !!!)
Running perfectly, no misfires, no lumpy idle
No coolant loss ( I am stumped by this)
Hard top hose
Heater working
Air con working
Water flowing,hot top and bottom hose
Viscous coupling ok
Fan working
No mayonnaise in oil
Meant to have been checked for exhaust gasses in coolant, all ok
I know the thermostat isn't great but if anything this should make the water flow better .. not worse
As I say I am no expert so any help would be gratefully received !!
Thanks
Phib
However it went in for a coolant flush at landrover ( well oil service and coolant change) it wasn't getting hot pre the change, it has always sat at 1/3 of the gauge.
Now its come back and its getting hot, hasn't hit the red but its nearly there, heater on full blast cools it down and then its ok but still hotter than normal
So here is what I know so far ( I am no expert at all !!!)
Running perfectly, no misfires, no lumpy idle
No coolant loss ( I am stumped by this)
Hard top hose
Heater working
Air con working
Water flowing,hot top and bottom hose
Viscous coupling ok
Fan working
No mayonnaise in oil
Meant to have been checked for exhaust gasses in coolant, all ok
I know the thermostat isn't great but if anything this should make the water flow better .. not worse
As I say I am no expert so any help would be gratefully received !!
Thanks
Phib
If the stat is known to be iffy change it. With one from a franchised dealer - there are some crap 'alternative parts' around. That said, are you sure they didn't change it? 1/3 of the gauage strikes me as being a bit low. Granted mine's a 3.5 but dead centreish is normal when the correct stat is fitted.
Change the coolant temp sender - the one that feeds the gauge. Mine occasionally plays silly buggers with the gauge & - so far - it's always been the sender.
Any airlocks? They can be a PITA to get all the air out & IIRC yours may have the tower assembly on the feed to the heater which helps.
Change the coolant temp sender - the one that feeds the gauge. Mine occasionally plays silly buggers with the gauge & - so far - it's always been the sender.
Any airlocks? They can be a PITA to get all the air out & IIRC yours may have the tower assembly on the feed to the heater which helps.
Thanks, it's driving me nuts !!
Plan is to bleed it again, fit new expansion tank cap ( just in case!!) spoke with the garage and they now say they cut the thermostat ( wonderful !! ) to make it flow better.
Logically I can't workout a) why they didn't just fit a new landrover one for £11 and b) how an open thermostat could lead to overheating !!
Will also check the sender wires and sender !!
Many thsnks
Phib
Plan is to bleed it again, fit new expansion tank cap ( just in case!!) spoke with the garage and they now say they cut the thermostat ( wonderful !! ) to make it flow better.
Logically I can't workout a) why they didn't just fit a new landrover one for £11 and b) how an open thermostat could lead to overheating !!
Will also check the sender wires and sender !!
Many thsnks
Phib
I take it we're using the term 'garage' in its loosest possible sense.
Stat on these have a hole & a jiggle pin which must be at 12o'clock in its fitted position to allow air to pass. If water can't get to the stat it won't open. There should be no need to make any additional holes or 'cut it' in any way. I wonder if it they've fitted a replacement, found it showed high on the gauge & decided to 'modify' it in the hope it wouldn't show as high.
Sounds like there was nothing wrong with what was in yours to begin with.
I've seen pattern parts for these & the Ford V6 Essex & Cologne that don't have a bleed hole which is why I suggest franchised dealer for the part.
FWIW if mine is fitted with the 88 degree stat as listed in the various aftermarket parts books it sits just below the red. Fitted with the older - 82 degree - stat it sits central. Cooling system is in excellent condition.
ETA Interesting that Rimmers describes the 88deg as 'Cold Climates' which is a new one on me!
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009229
Stat on these have a hole & a jiggle pin which must be at 12o'clock in its fitted position to allow air to pass. If water can't get to the stat it won't open. There should be no need to make any additional holes or 'cut it' in any way. I wonder if it they've fitted a replacement, found it showed high on the gauge & decided to 'modify' it in the hope it wouldn't show as high.
Sounds like there was nothing wrong with what was in yours to begin with.
I've seen pattern parts for these & the Ford V6 Essex & Cologne that don't have a bleed hole which is why I suggest franchised dealer for the part.
FWIW if mine is fitted with the 88 degree stat as listed in the various aftermarket parts books it sits just below the red. Fitted with the older - 82 degree - stat it sits central. Cooling system is in excellent condition.
ETA Interesting that Rimmers describes the 88deg as 'Cold Climates' which is a new one on me!
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009229
Edited by paintman on Monday 20th July 22:08
My eldest had a clutch fitted to a Renault Megane F1 by a 'clutch specialist' who were then unable to get the clutch to work.
Clutch was genuine Renault as not available anywhere else.
They said it must be the replacement solid flywheel that was the problem.
Eventually he had it recovered to an indy who specialises in these.
Turned out they'd fitted the driven plate the wrong way round
And f
ked the brand new concentric slave cylinder seals for good measure.....
Clutch was genuine Renault as not available anywhere else.
They said it must be the replacement solid flywheel that was the problem.
Eventually he had it recovered to an indy who specialises in these.
Turned out they'd fitted the driven plate the wrong way round
And f
ked the brand new concentric slave cylinder seals for good measure.....Right, after another morning checking at idle it sits perfectly to temp as it always has done but as soon as it's under load ( after 10 mins of driving) it's getting hot again
Not sure if this makes any difference to anything !!
One garage has said they believe porous block ( which it could be) but it's not loosing any coolant at all which makes me suspect. ( hope !! ) it's not !!
Thanks
Phib
Not sure if this makes any difference to anything !!
One garage has said they believe porous block ( which it could be) but it's not loosing any coolant at all which makes me suspect. ( hope !! ) it's not !!
Thanks
Phib
Well it was all going so well !!! bled the radiator / coolant, loads of bubbles out !!
Took it for a test drive 15 mins all perfect just below half, AC on life is good .....
Next ... clouds of white smoke, coolant light on and temp up !!
So it must have been head gasket and or block.
Let it cool and wont hold coolant now (pouring out of the bottom), suspect the heater matrix pipes have blown off.
Still runs perfectly though !!!
New engine time now me thinks.
Thanks for all your help
Phib
Took it for a test drive 15 mins all perfect just below half, AC on life is good .....
Next ... clouds of white smoke, coolant light on and temp up !!
So it must have been head gasket and or block.
Let it cool and wont hold coolant now (pouring out of the bottom), suspect the heater matrix pipes have blown off.
Still runs perfectly though !!!
New engine time now me thinks.
Thanks for all your help
Phib
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