Looking to buy a 4.2 Supercharged Range Rover
Discussion
I have had my Jan 2007 RR SC for about 18 months now.
96,000 miles when bought.
It came with LPG/valve lube fitted and runs almost as good on LPG as VPower.
Does 15mpg on LPG, which is half the price of VP.
Alternator failed and I had to be recovered, problem is there is a common fault mode where it does not light the RED warning light!! I now have a USB/Cig' charger with led volts on it, just in case! About £5 off ebay.
Rear callipers have been replaced due to both seizing, but they are very cheap, unlike the Brembo fronts.
My heated drivers seat no longer works, but the cooling does!!
Heated steering wheel is just the best accessory I've ever had!
So make sure you try all the electrics.
Granddaughter loves the DVD!
Satnav is querky, nowhere near as good as TomTom, but you get used to it.
Performance is very good for such a heavy old bus!
I used to have a Classic 3.9 RR and loved that, but this is just so much better all round.
96,000 miles when bought.
It came with LPG/valve lube fitted and runs almost as good on LPG as VPower.
Does 15mpg on LPG, which is half the price of VP.
Alternator failed and I had to be recovered, problem is there is a common fault mode where it does not light the RED warning light!! I now have a USB/Cig' charger with led volts on it, just in case! About £5 off ebay.
Rear callipers have been replaced due to both seizing, but they are very cheap, unlike the Brembo fronts.
My heated drivers seat no longer works, but the cooling does!!
Heated steering wheel is just the best accessory I've ever had!
So make sure you try all the electrics.
Granddaughter loves the DVD!
Satnav is querky, nowhere near as good as TomTom, but you get used to it.
Performance is very good for such a heavy old bus!
I used to have a Classic 3.9 RR and loved that, but this is just so much better all round.
OK, I've had both the 4.2 S/C and the 5.0 S/C. I also had a 5.0 N/A Discovery 4 back in 2010 so I do have experience of that as well.
Things to note.
The 4.2 is thirsty. The 5.0 S/C is better on fuel economy due to the direct injection. But this also means the 5.0 Charger can't have LPG (yet) as it uses the petrol to cool the injector tips as they feed the cylinders.
4.2 has 400 bhp. 5.0 S/C has just over 500. Both are adequate.
Forget the 5.0 N/A though. I had this is a Disco 4 briefly. It was one of a very few sold in the UK, ex motoring press etc and I found out there are no dealers able to service the damn things here in Blighty. None of the diags are programmed for this model as it simply is not UK spec. It also has less bhp than the 4.2 S/C, noticeably so especially with a distinct lack of low down torque.
Of the 2 supercharged units I would have the 5.0 every time. It is more eager, has a quicker throttle response and has stacks more torque. If you do the pulley and re-map it goes to 550 bhp and 675nm easily. It also has the later ZF 6HP28 gearbox which has the uprated rear stator bush. The earlier 6HP26 had a bush that was too soft and it allowed the E clutch to leak fluid which makes for poor changes in 4th, 5th and 6th due to low pressure.
The gearboxes are a known issue on all the ZF 5HP and 6HP units though. Land Rover claim they are sealed for life, but in reality that means sealed for the life of the warranty. They need fluid changes and if not done they get sluggish at changing gear and burn out the torque converters.
As with anything, find one which has been cherished. If it's 2010 or newer any main dealer will be able to provide a warranty print out. Look for big ticket items which even if done are a sign of a troublesome car. Not also that ANY (and I mean any) noise from the timing chain is a 100% walk away matter. Many thousands of pounds to fix and the fix doesn't always stop it rattling.
The supercharger on the 4.2's had a known issue with a coolant pump being wired the wrong way. Easy fix but plenty have slipped through so worth checking.
NSR cubby hole in the boot. This is where all the electronics for the Infotainment are housed. If there is any sign of moisture in this area walk away. Land Rover released a plastic splash guard to divert water away from the electronics but actually fixing the leaks was beyond them it seems. Water in here will mean a world of pain. Also check under the spare wheel as it can run through to there sometimes.
Suspension bushes are common as it's such a heavy old bus. Rears go soft but rarely knock so the clue here is uneven rear tyre wear. A sure sign you have a grand leaving your account soonish. Fronts cause knocks and are equally hard work to replace, especially if it happens to be a lower arm ball joint.
Air suspension needs to be checked. It must rise and fall evenly, at least twice with a full air tank. If it doesn't then the compressor needs replacing. Check airbags in off-road height for any leaks (hissing).
The sunroof on these rarely gets opened. Standard fit on the S/C (optional to delete at build) and the drain tubes can block. Easyish fix but if water has got in it will have stained the headlining, which on S/C models was usually leather. Super expensive to replace.
Check ALL the electronics work. All, every single item. A heated steering wheel will set you back over 300 quid if it doesn't work. The rear DVD system is mostly Alpine but finding the parts is an issue. Heated seat stuff is peltier units on the cooled seats, hotwire on the ones which are only heated. Not the easiest of stuff to get at. Radio reception. Test this and then turn on the heated rear window. If there's any degradation of sound then it is likely water has got into the NSR cubby at some point.
Also, if the car has aftermarket tinted windows this will ruin TV and radio reception. Only have tints if they are factory.
Steering column motors for height and reach should be smooth and silent. Any noise and you're looking at a steering column. When you finally get a car make sure to never leave this in the AUTO position as it just wears out the pinions. Great idea badly implemented with components made of swiss cheese.
You should also budget for a diagnostic tool such as the IID or Faultmate. It will save you loads on diagnostic charges.
Best of luck.
Dom
Things to note.
The 4.2 is thirsty. The 5.0 S/C is better on fuel economy due to the direct injection. But this also means the 5.0 Charger can't have LPG (yet) as it uses the petrol to cool the injector tips as they feed the cylinders.
4.2 has 400 bhp. 5.0 S/C has just over 500. Both are adequate.
Forget the 5.0 N/A though. I had this is a Disco 4 briefly. It was one of a very few sold in the UK, ex motoring press etc and I found out there are no dealers able to service the damn things here in Blighty. None of the diags are programmed for this model as it simply is not UK spec. It also has less bhp than the 4.2 S/C, noticeably so especially with a distinct lack of low down torque.
Of the 2 supercharged units I would have the 5.0 every time. It is more eager, has a quicker throttle response and has stacks more torque. If you do the pulley and re-map it goes to 550 bhp and 675nm easily. It also has the later ZF 6HP28 gearbox which has the uprated rear stator bush. The earlier 6HP26 had a bush that was too soft and it allowed the E clutch to leak fluid which makes for poor changes in 4th, 5th and 6th due to low pressure.
The gearboxes are a known issue on all the ZF 5HP and 6HP units though. Land Rover claim they are sealed for life, but in reality that means sealed for the life of the warranty. They need fluid changes and if not done they get sluggish at changing gear and burn out the torque converters.
As with anything, find one which has been cherished. If it's 2010 or newer any main dealer will be able to provide a warranty print out. Look for big ticket items which even if done are a sign of a troublesome car. Not also that ANY (and I mean any) noise from the timing chain is a 100% walk away matter. Many thousands of pounds to fix and the fix doesn't always stop it rattling.
The supercharger on the 4.2's had a known issue with a coolant pump being wired the wrong way. Easy fix but plenty have slipped through so worth checking.
NSR cubby hole in the boot. This is where all the electronics for the Infotainment are housed. If there is any sign of moisture in this area walk away. Land Rover released a plastic splash guard to divert water away from the electronics but actually fixing the leaks was beyond them it seems. Water in here will mean a world of pain. Also check under the spare wheel as it can run through to there sometimes.
Suspension bushes are common as it's such a heavy old bus. Rears go soft but rarely knock so the clue here is uneven rear tyre wear. A sure sign you have a grand leaving your account soonish. Fronts cause knocks and are equally hard work to replace, especially if it happens to be a lower arm ball joint.
Air suspension needs to be checked. It must rise and fall evenly, at least twice with a full air tank. If it doesn't then the compressor needs replacing. Check airbags in off-road height for any leaks (hissing).
The sunroof on these rarely gets opened. Standard fit on the S/C (optional to delete at build) and the drain tubes can block. Easyish fix but if water has got in it will have stained the headlining, which on S/C models was usually leather. Super expensive to replace.
Check ALL the electronics work. All, every single item. A heated steering wheel will set you back over 300 quid if it doesn't work. The rear DVD system is mostly Alpine but finding the parts is an issue. Heated seat stuff is peltier units on the cooled seats, hotwire on the ones which are only heated. Not the easiest of stuff to get at. Radio reception. Test this and then turn on the heated rear window. If there's any degradation of sound then it is likely water has got into the NSR cubby at some point.
Also, if the car has aftermarket tinted windows this will ruin TV and radio reception. Only have tints if they are factory.
Steering column motors for height and reach should be smooth and silent. Any noise and you're looking at a steering column. When you finally get a car make sure to never leave this in the AUTO position as it just wears out the pinions. Great idea badly implemented with components made of swiss cheese.
You should also budget for a diagnostic tool such as the IID or Faultmate. It will save you loads on diagnostic charges.
Best of luck.
Dom
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