Wet Discovery 1 V8 wont idle

[firesafetydave]

Took my discovery to sibbertoft today and went into some deep water - decided to reverse out rather than continue - no misfiring but 2 minutes later it cut out and would,nt start - out came the wd40 gave the dizzy a wipe and it started again with no misfire but every time you went to idle it cut out and would'nt start for 4 - 5 minutes.I thought it was condesation in the cap but it revs at 2000 and above no problem but let it idle and it died and would'nt start for 5 mins again.Got it going and drove it home with a bit of left foot braking(auto v8)about a 30 mile journey.When i got it home all ok!!??
Any ideas would be a great help - i was wondering if there is anything elae that could have gor wet or was it just the dizzy.
Thanks
Dave

[Liszt]

Plugs and or coil are likley culprits as well.

[GreenV8S]

Even a trace of water / spray in the air flow meter can mess the readings up. Most of the problems will go once it's dried out, but if it leaves surface contamination behind it may never be the same again. Low speed running is very sensitive to the AFM accuracy.

[Darkslider]

Rover V8s are notoriously crap at water and electrics, both carb and EFI models as you've found out. Chances are all will be right again once it's dried out but unless you want to spend a lot of time and effort waterproofing the entire electrics system, which isn't always possible you'd do better just trying to keep it dry.

[firesafetydave]

Thanks for all the info - i take it a snorkel would eliminate the water in the afm?
The coil is going in a sealed tuperware container and the dizzy in a plastic milk carton
Thanks again
Dave

[Darkslider]

firesafetydave said:

Thanks for all the info - i take it a snorkel would eliminate the water in the afm?
The coil is going in a sealed tuperware container and the dizzy in a plastic milk carton
Thanks again
Dave

Yep it's just the ignition electrics you need to worry about then. As you say a carton around the distributor and cut the fingers off some waterproof washing up marigolds to act as 'gloves' for the HT leads should go a long way to waterproofing your system. Plenty of silicon sealant everywhere should see you right

[firesafetydave]

If possible just to confirm things - i went out in the disco tonight and it started fine - drove about 20 miles with no problems - went to park and it stalled at idle and would not start for 10 mins - just turns over with no signs of starting.Left the meeting drove home - again about 20 miles - got home and parked and it was idling just fine - even shifting between reverse and drive - turned it off and guess what it would'nt start again.
Do you think itis the afm or could it be something else - the afm sounds the most promising to me.
thanks
Dave

[Darkslider]

firesafetydave said:

If possible just to confirm things - i went out in the disco tonight and it started fine - drove about 20 miles with no problems - went to park and it stalled at idle and would not start for 10 mins - just turns over with no signs of starting.Left the meeting drove home - again about 20 miles - got home and parked and it was idling just fine - even shifting between reverse and drive - turned it off and guess what it would'nt start again.
Do you think itis the afm or could it be something else - the afm sounds the most promising to me.
thanks
Dave

Sounds like you may still have some intermittent damp or moisture problems in the ignition circuit perhaps. If you haven't already I'd recommend taking everything apart and giving it a liberal coating of WD40 or similar. In my experience a damp or faulty AFM won't prevent the car from running completely, just make it run rough with poor fuelling and emissions.

A quick test you can do next time it refuses to start is to pull one of the HT leads off a spark plug and hold it against a good earth, have a friend crank the engine and you should see a strong blue spark. If not, your problem is in the ignition system somewhere and requires further investigation, but if there is yet the engine still doesn't fire the problem is most likely with your fuel supply.

HTH and good luck sorting it out. The Rover V8 is a fantastic engine bordering on the legendary so we allow it these little indiscretions!

[firesafetydave]

Fingers crossed i may have found the answer - just went out for a quick spin - left it idling outside a friends - it stalled and would'nt start - took your advice and stuck a spare plug in a lead and there was no spark - glancewd down at the coil and it was leaking!! My mate had a spare motorbike coil that we stuck on and it started - not very well but it did start - so to cut a long story short i have ordered a new coil,cap, arm and leads and will put them all on tonight and see what happens - i will let you know and thanks for all the advice
Dave

[Darkslider]

firesafetydave said:

Fingers crossed i may have found the answer - just went out for a quick spin - left it idling outside a friends - it stalled and would'nt start - took your advice and stuck a spare plug in a lead and there was no spark - glancewd down at the coil and it was leaking!! My mate had a spare motorbike coil that we stuck on and it started - not very well but it did start - so to cut a long story short i have ordered a new coil,cap, arm and leads and will put them all on tonight and see what happens - i will let you know and thanks for all the advice
Dave

No problem mate, certainly sounds like the coil could be at fault there! I hope you'll have cured it by fitting the new bits. let us know how you get on.

Brendan

[firesafetydave]

Well the saga continues - new coil fitted - go for a spin come back turn if off wont start - no spark at plug leads - check with a meter and i am getting powder either side low voltage on the coil.Take the centre lead out of the cap and put it to earth and crank the engine over and no spark until you release the key and then you get one spark.( if my memeory serves me right it should be a constant on off spark) - if this is the case could it be the distributor. i fitted new cap and arm and it was fine for about 10 start and stops and then back to not starting unless you leave it for 10 mins.Does the dizzy sound like a likely culprit - any help once again apprieciated as i am getting hacked off now.
Dave
Just had some more info and th general opinion is that it is the amplifier on the side of the distributor - sound promising??

Edited by firesafetydave on Thursday 15th January 18:58

god i'm learning alot !! aparently a common problem is the spider unit located behind the dash a quick check is to run a cable from the live side of the battery to the live side of the coil - this bypasses the spider unit - if it starts the spider unit is probably at fault so i was thinking this wire could be run through a switch to give control or as i have found a company called dingles do a harness that replaces the spider unit completely - the fun continues

Edited by firesafetydave on Thursday 15th January 20:57

[firesafetydave]

definately sounds like the spider to me

[firesafetydave]

Had enough now - fitted the spider by pass lead after taking the dash out and yes it seems to be much better but still does it occasionaly and you dont have to wait quite so long.I still have the ignition amplifier to fit but can tfind it - any ideas.
Someone else said about the imobilisor
I think i will make a switch up with a lead from the battery to the coil to use in emergencys
Any other ideas most welcome
Dave

[firesafetydave]

Ok i think i can stop boring you all now. I found the ignition amplifier - it was down next to the coil - so it got a good soaking when the nose was under water. i took the wiring loom off and put it in the aga for an hour to get all the moisture out.I then fitted the new amplifier and smothered all the plugs with vaseline fitted it all back together and it is running the best it ever has but within the last 2 days it has had new plugs,leads,cap,arm,air filter, spider by pass harness and last but by no means least an ignition amplifier.
Thanks everyone for input.
Dave