Re-attaching skirting boards
Discussion
Hi all,
Decorating our bedroom this weekend, and small sections of the skirting have been cut off to run cables for new sockets etc.
How is best to re-attach? Just holding them back in place they seem to sit too flush to the wall by a mil or so. I was just going to use a liberal amount of no nails type stuff, would this pad it out ok so I can make a good easy job of filling the joins with it sitting nicely with the rest of the skirting boards?
Cheers
Decorating our bedroom this weekend, and small sections of the skirting have been cut off to run cables for new sockets etc.
How is best to re-attach? Just holding them back in place they seem to sit too flush to the wall by a mil or so. I was just going to use a liberal amount of no nails type stuff, would this pad it out ok so I can make a good easy job of filling the joins with it sitting nicely with the rest of the skirting boards?
Cheers
Simpo Two said:
I use two lines of NMN or equivalent, and then tun a bead of caulk along the top to cover any gap.
What does 'too flush' mean?
When you place it against the wall the existing skirting sticks or a mm or so further that when I place the pieces back on the wall. He old skirting has been nailed so I'm assuming never was 100% flush to the wall then filled to fit.What does 'too flush' mean?
R1 Indy said:
Why did you remove the skirting for cables? Could have just drilled behind it.
I didn't, the electrician did. One wall was a a brick exterior wall so wall had to be chased and skirting cut to run cables up.The other walls were stud but the bottom part of the stud frame was tight to the floor joists so wasn't possible to get a drill in to run the cables without removing the skirting. The only other alternative was to cut a large hole in the stud so would have required more plasterwork, so either would have been a pain
J-Tuner said:
I done something similar and my walls were on the piss also - copious amounts of grip fill and a few screws to hold it tight and follow the wall profile then either fill the screws or remove. Worked for me 
Or remove? I wish I'd thought of that when I replaced all of mine in the whole house! Now I want to remove one and I'm buggered if I can find any of the screws I fitted. 
I too can vouch for Gripfill. Great value and does the job.
bomma220 said:
Yes, in a nutshell !
If the wall's a bit dusty or powdery brush on some PVA diluted with water & let it dry.
Leave any excess 'No Nails' that squabs out until it's dried a bit (4 - 6 hours) then trim off the excess.
Hope this helps.
I have to ask, why would you PVA it? Wash it down and let it dry properly yes, give the adhesive something to key to yes, but PVA really isn't something you should bond to. Unless I've missed something?If the wall's a bit dusty or powdery brush on some PVA diluted with water & let it dry.
Leave any excess 'No Nails' that squabs out until it's dried a bit (4 - 6 hours) then trim off the excess.
Hope this helps.
Origin Unknown said:
bomma220 said:
Yes, in a nutshell !
If the wall's a bit dusty or powdery brush on some PVA diluted with water & let it dry.
Leave any excess 'No Nails' that squabs out until it's dried a bit (4 - 6 hours) then trim off the excess.
Hope this helps.
I have to ask, why would you PVA it? Wash it down and let it dry properly yes, give the adhesive something to key to yes, but PVA really isn't something you should bond to. Unless I've missed something?If the wall's a bit dusty or powdery brush on some PVA diluted with water & let it dry.
Leave any excess 'No Nails' that squabs out until it's dried a bit (4 - 6 hours) then trim off the excess.
Hope this helps.
If you shouldn't 'bond to PVA' there's a couple of million plasterers out there doing something wrong for a start!
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