Griffith cabin cooling..
Discussion
Hi all,
I recently completed the trip to France and back, it was rather warm. I did have the roof off of the Griff, but the heat coming from the footwell was still unbearable. (car didn't over heat once which was good) I tok it out over the weekend and was still just as warm here. Is there anything that can be cone in the engine to reduce the cabin temperature? also, Ive been toying with the idea of getting A/C retro fitted if its possible.
James.
I recently completed the trip to France and back, it was rather warm. I did have the roof off of the Griff, but the heat coming from the footwell was still unbearable. (car didn't over heat once which was good) I tok it out over the weekend and was still just as warm here. Is there anything that can be cone in the engine to reduce the cabin temperature? also, Ive been toying with the idea of getting A/C retro fitted if its possible.
James.
Might be worth checking if the heat shield in the engine bay is still in good condition. Some people have also fitted heat shielding inside the cabin to improve it further. The carpets will need to come out for that so might become expensive.
Is the temperature controller on the heater working correctly, is it still pushing out hot air when it is turned to cold?
Is the temperature controller on the heater working correctly, is it still pushing out hot air when it is turned to cold?
Edited by Colin RedGriff on Monday 18th July 12:32
jamesbilluk said:
Many thanks, ill have a check in the engine bay, is that the silver shielding?
The air vents are still blowing warm air at me.. As you start the journey its all fine, then starts to get warmer , it was better with out the vents on the other day
James
Yes that's the silver shielding, you can replacement kits cut to shape. It's a bit fiddly to do with the engine still in there. The air vents are still blowing warm air at me.. As you start the journey its all fine, then starts to get warmer , it was better with out the vents on the other day
James
Sounds like the water valve isn't closing properly (mine does it too). The valve is in the passenger footwell and is a simple vavle that you can replace - it's a VW part I think. I've got the valve but haven't got round to fitting it yet as it means pulling digging around in the footwell.
What I've done because I've put off actually fixing the problem is to set the direction up to the screen (instead of my feet) and turn the fresh air, that stops the air being forced through the hot matrix when you are moving. I figure I'm not going to miss a bit of fresh air coming in the cockpit when I'm driving a convertible
After two years of driving with hot air out of the vents decided to by the heater tap valve. Should have done this earlier. Big difference for only 16 euros and an easy quick fix. Drove to the Ardennen and still no cooked feet. Happy..
In winter I will renew the original VW valve and see whether I still need the heater tap valve.
http://www.edutechparts.nl/product/kachelkraan-16m...
In winter I will renew the original VW valve and see whether I still need the heater tap valve.
http://www.edutechparts.nl/product/kachelkraan-16m...
I have a fresh air fan into the footwell. Was that an option or retro fit? I may still need to consider some of the steps listed here, but this at least moves the hot air in the footwell out of the top of the car. I also close the heating vent into the footwell - if the matrix gets hot because of the valve leak, the heat still passes in - sealing that up also helps - then you are only dealing with the heat passing through the bulkhead (which is still significant on a longer journey). I need new heat shielding as well...
.. costs nothing. James
Just to add my bit........
As stated firstly make sure the water flow valve is working properly, if not, it's very easy and cheap to replace. You don't need to drain down the system you can just clamp the hoses either side. The potentiometer (variable resistor with 3 wires going to it) that senses the valve position can lose it's correct location and the valve won't close properly. It's a servo based system where the potentiometer on the valve motor tries to match the position of the controlling potentiometer on the dash. If it’s way out of position it will hunt (move backwards and forwards), if it’s a bit out out probably not. Either way the solution is to relocate the valve potentiometer so that it sits in the right position over the valve, it’s a trial and error thing but not difficult.
Bear in mind, even though much better then the 400’s, by today’s standards it’s a relatively crude system. In my 500 Griff the system works properly and recently stuck in traffic at 32 deg the with an engine temp of 85 deg it was producing warm air. Once out on the open road it cooled down to ambient. (The control valves in my last two Griffs where on the left of the battery box).
HTH
A
Just to add my bit........
As stated firstly make sure the water flow valve is working properly, if not, it's very easy and cheap to replace. You don't need to drain down the system you can just clamp the hoses either side. The potentiometer (variable resistor with 3 wires going to it) that senses the valve position can lose it's correct location and the valve won't close properly. It's a servo based system where the potentiometer on the valve motor tries to match the position of the controlling potentiometer on the dash. If it’s way out of position it will hunt (move backwards and forwards), if it’s a bit out out probably not. Either way the solution is to relocate the valve potentiometer so that it sits in the right position over the valve, it’s a trial and error thing but not difficult.
Bear in mind, even though much better then the 400’s, by today’s standards it’s a relatively crude system. In my 500 Griff the system works properly and recently stuck in traffic at 32 deg the with an engine temp of 85 deg it was producing warm air. Once out on the open road it cooled down to ambient. (The control valves in my last two Griffs where on the left of the battery box).
HTH
A
ronspeedsix said:
After two years of driving with hot air out of the vents decided to by the heater tap valve. Should have done this earlier. Big difference for only 16 euros and an easy quick fix. Drove to the Ardennen and still no cooked feet. Happy..
In winter I will renew the original VW valve and see whether I still need the heater tap valve.
http://www.edutechparts.nl/product/kachelkraan-16m...
Sorry to revive an (c-)old thread: How does this work Ron? Manual or electric switch?In winter I will renew the original VW valve and see whether I still need the heater tap valve.
http://www.edutechparts.nl/product/kachelkraan-16m...
Jobster said:
Sorry to revive an (c-)old thread: How does this work Ron? Manual or electric switch?
Here you go - https://www.t7design.co.uk/manual-heater-control-v...Fit the valve in series with a heater matrix hose and turn the valve to the off position in the summer
Better fixing the fault but this is a good quick fix
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