Questions from a new TVR400SE owner please be gentle ;)
Discussion
I did do a search first honest.
1. Glass on drivers door not going up and down smoothly could be cause by being forced against windscreen at the top as I think the door may have dropped slightly. Is it easy to remove the door cards to see what is going on. Can the door be adjusted easily?
2. Electric adjustment for the wing mirrors not working is it easy to remove the centre instrument console to have a poke around.
3. Similarly interior courtesy light not working any suggestions welcome.
4. Front indicator / sidelight lens cracked. Seems a Peugeot lens is advised but needs modifying to fit, what where the original lenses from.
5. Brakes have been looked at twice recently and a new master cylinder fitted but are very spongy with the pedal going almost to the floor before anything happens, any advice welcomed.
6. Does a locking TR7 petrol cap fit.
7. Tickover set at 1000rpm seems a bit high to me discuss
Thanks
Nick
1. Glass on drivers door not going up and down smoothly could be cause by being forced against windscreen at the top as I think the door may have dropped slightly. Is it easy to remove the door cards to see what is going on. Can the door be adjusted easily?
2. Electric adjustment for the wing mirrors not working is it easy to remove the centre instrument console to have a poke around.
3. Similarly interior courtesy light not working any suggestions welcome.
4. Front indicator / sidelight lens cracked. Seems a Peugeot lens is advised but needs modifying to fit, what where the original lenses from.
5. Brakes have been looked at twice recently and a new master cylinder fitted but are very spongy with the pedal going almost to the floor before anything happens, any advice welcomed.
6. Does a locking TR7 petrol cap fit.
7. Tickover set at 1000rpm seems a bit high to me discuss
Thanks
Nick
Hi Nick, I'm not an expert but I've certainly had similar issues with both the 350i and 390SE.
1. Window glass - easy to remove door card and have a look. On the 350i the actual exposed gear mechanism was covered in crap and dust so after a good spraying with WD40 and a wipe down it worked fine. On the 390SE both windows were very slow so a spray of silicon spray along the vertical channel rubbers sorted both out.
2.Door mirrors - on the 390Se with standard dash board it is a two minute job to get the central lower console aprt and have a look at the mirror adjustment. On the 350i the actual mirror motors were knackered so they are currently disconnected.
3. Courtesy lights on the 350i weren't working - a combination of blown bulbs and rusty door switches. I fitted new lowe energy LED's and bought a couple of new door switches off flea and all is now working.
4. Side light lens - cant comment on this one.
5. What calipers are fitted? Are they the Princess 4 pots? If so then numerous threads regarding bleeding issues. I use a tyre pressure powered "eazibleed" kit which certainly simplifies brake and clutch bleeding and it's a one man job. I just keep bleeding until no more bubbles appear, even though I probably use more clean brake fluid than I need.
6. Petrol cap - don't know on this one?
7. Both of my Wedges tick over at 1000rpm. Below this they they can hunt a little and engine labours when headlights and rad fan is running. 1000rpm sounds right to me.
Cheers.
1. Window glass - easy to remove door card and have a look. On the 350i the actual exposed gear mechanism was covered in crap and dust so after a good spraying with WD40 and a wipe down it worked fine. On the 390SE both windows were very slow so a spray of silicon spray along the vertical channel rubbers sorted both out.
2.Door mirrors - on the 390Se with standard dash board it is a two minute job to get the central lower console aprt and have a look at the mirror adjustment. On the 350i the actual mirror motors were knackered so they are currently disconnected.
3. Courtesy lights on the 350i weren't working - a combination of blown bulbs and rusty door switches. I fitted new lowe energy LED's and bought a couple of new door switches off flea and all is now working.
4. Side light lens - cant comment on this one.
5. What calipers are fitted? Are they the Princess 4 pots? If so then numerous threads regarding bleeding issues. I use a tyre pressure powered "eazibleed" kit which certainly simplifies brake and clutch bleeding and it's a one man job. I just keep bleeding until no more bubbles appear, even though I probably use more clean brake fluid than I need.
6. Petrol cap - don't know on this one?
7. Both of my Wedges tick over at 1000rpm. Below this they they can hunt a little and engine labours when headlights and rad fan is running. 1000rpm sounds right to me.
Cheers.
KKson said:
Hi Nick, I'm not an expert but I've certainly had similar issues with both the 350i and 390SE.
1. Window glass - easy to remove door card and have a look. On the 350i the actual exposed gear mechanism was covered in crap and dust so after a good spraying with WD40 and a wipe down it worked fine. On the 390SE both windows were very slow so a spray of silicon spray along the vertical channel rubbers sorted both out.
2.Door mirrors - on the 390Se with standard dash board it is a two minute job to get the central lower console aprt and have a look at the mirror adjustment. On the 350i the actual mirror motors were knackered so they are currently disconnected.
3. Courtesy lights on the 350i weren't working - a combination of blown bulbs and rusty door switches. I fitted new lowe energy LED's and bought a couple of new door switches off flea and all is now working.
4. Side light lens - cant comment on this one.
5. What calipers are fitted? Are they the Princess 4 pots? If so then numerous threads regarding bleeding issues. I use a tyre pressure powered "eazibleed" kit which certainly simplifies brake and clutch bleeding and it's a one man job. I just keep bleeding until no more bubbles appear, even though I probably use more clean brake fluid than I need.
6. Petrol cap - don't know on this one?
7. Both of my Wedges tick over at 1000rpm. Below this they they can hunt a little and engine labours when headlights and rad fan is running. 1000rpm sounds right to me.
Cheers.
Thanks for the reply do you have any tips / procedure for removing the door cards and centre dash. I have a pressurised bleed system that runs of a compressor may give that a go.1. Window glass - easy to remove door card and have a look. On the 350i the actual exposed gear mechanism was covered in crap and dust so after a good spraying with WD40 and a wipe down it worked fine. On the 390SE both windows were very slow so a spray of silicon spray along the vertical channel rubbers sorted both out.
2.Door mirrors - on the 390Se with standard dash board it is a two minute job to get the central lower console aprt and have a look at the mirror adjustment. On the 350i the actual mirror motors were knackered so they are currently disconnected.
3. Courtesy lights on the 350i weren't working - a combination of blown bulbs and rusty door switches. I fitted new lowe energy LED's and bought a couple of new door switches off flea and all is now working.
4. Side light lens - cant comment on this one.
5. What calipers are fitted? Are they the Princess 4 pots? If so then numerous threads regarding bleeding issues. I use a tyre pressure powered "eazibleed" kit which certainly simplifies brake and clutch bleeding and it's a one man job. I just keep bleeding until no more bubbles appear, even though I probably use more clean brake fluid than I need.
6. Petrol cap - don't know on this one?
7. Both of my Wedges tick over at 1000rpm. Below this they they can hunt a little and engine labours when headlights and rad fan is running. 1000rpm sounds right to me.
Cheers.
Nick
I actually removed the central console and transmission tunnel on Sunday. On the 390 there are two screws either side of the central pod, which are covered by plastic caps. unscrew these and on mine the whole central cover comes off exposing the instruments etc. There were also two very small screws fixing the instrument section to the top of the tunnel which I removed. To remove the transmission tunnel again on mine there is the central flat "well" section. The base has a pop/push in flat panel which pulled out exposing the main tunnel cover retaining screw. I carefully took the weight of the instrument console and the whole tunnel cover then slid backwards, which gave me enough space to get at the hand brake limit switch which was playing up. To completely remove the cover it would have needed a bit of careful side to side jiggling to get it clear of the gear knob and handbrake.
Hope this helps. Then again each and every TVR is different so good luck!
Hope this helps. Then again each and every TVR is different so good luck!
One more question for the moment is the speedo drive off the gearbox easily accessible. No working speedo after 50 miles first time I have used the M6 toll road and I didn't realise there was a speed restriction just after the toll booths 
My 30 year clean licence may be in jeopardy, keep your fingers crossed for me.
Nick
My 30 year clean licence may be in jeopardy, keep your fingers crossed for me.Nick
9 times out of 10 the mirrors are down to corroded / stuck mechanisms in the pods. Like the headlight pods they tend to have little exercise so corrode or stick.
2 x flat head screws are found on the pod to get at the motors and nylon gears. Also the 4 wire connections which are also prone to corrosion. A little help and copious amounts of WD 40 work wonders in my experience :-)
See pictures below:
2 x flat head screws are found on the pod to get at the motors and nylon gears. Also the 4 wire connections which are also prone to corrosion. A little help and copious amounts of WD 40 work wonders in my experience :-)
See pictures below:
Edited by Jack Valiant on Tuesday 9th February 15:50
Edited by Jack Valiant on Tuesday 9th February 15:52
Hi Nick. Firstly a Wedge tutorial. You have bought a Wedge, and as such you need to be hands on at all times. It's all a part of the fun of owning and using a Wedge. Just because something is working today, doesn't mean it will necessarily be working tomorrow. Wedges don't like standing for long periods of time, so if you've got one that's been standing, you'll be having a lot of fun putting things right. Wedges don't like the damp either, so ideally kept in a garage or invest in many cans of WD40. Also they tend to leak and develop puddles in the foot well, another reason to ideally keep them in a garage or further invest in the best outdoor cover money can buy. However, covers can give paint or lacquer peeling problems, so watch out for that if you need to cover. The chassis needs to be well protected, waxoil etc. A weakening chassis or one that's been poorly repaired in the past can give serious problems in the future. After all, it's the bits you can't easily see that matters the most.
Now, the problems. Everything you mention is fairly straight forward to put right as others have mentioned and for little cost. Mostly it's to do with lubricating and tracing wiring faults etc. Except the braking system. That may not be so easy or cheap to put right. Wedges don't have the greatest brakes in the world but they should be quite efficient and not spongy. If bleeding doesn't solve the problem, it could be a problem with master cylinder or callipers or even servo. They don't make a locking petrol cap for this car any longer but there is a motorbike one that I believe fits some Wedges and costs around £50. I hope that helps and you enjoy your Wedge ownership.
Tony. TCB.
Now, the problems. Everything you mention is fairly straight forward to put right as others have mentioned and for little cost. Mostly it's to do with lubricating and tracing wiring faults etc. Except the braking system. That may not be so easy or cheap to put right. Wedges don't have the greatest brakes in the world but they should be quite efficient and not spongy. If bleeding doesn't solve the problem, it could be a problem with master cylinder or callipers or even servo. They don't make a locking petrol cap for this car any longer but there is a motorbike one that I believe fits some Wedges and costs around £50. I hope that helps and you enjoy your Wedge ownership.
Tony. TCB.
Welcome to 400 ownership.
Mirror motors, as already suggested, worth unscrewing from the pods and cleaning up the 4 terminals and lubing the nylon gears. If you need to remove the centre panel, first remove the radio. Using the radio aperture as access, you need to find 2 captive bolts (one either side around the middle) and unscrew the nuts. This allows the veneer panel to be removed (after pulling off the 2 air vents and the heater slider plastic covers and cigar lighter). This reveals the backing plate to which the gauges and switches are secured. This panel is held by the 4 (I think) screws that are visible. Removing these allows some access behind, although the electrical cables do restrict how far you can move it around. Hopefully you wont need to go down this route.
Doors can be adjusted - see here. Not that easy though.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Check the shut lines front and rear edges as an indication of dropping. Also possible the back end of the car has settled, in which case you can replace /pack out the rubber sheets between body and chassis at various points.The windows should have a steel cable attached to the channel in which they sit to limit upward movement. Sometimes this breaks or stretches. Once you'v got the door card off, all should be clear.
Tickover hot 1K rpm is good - keeps the coolant and oil circulating better.
Brakes: you say they've been looked at - they're not complicated, but they're also not like most ordinary car brakes these days, which are just single piston sliding calipers. You should have as standard AP / Austin Princess 4 piston calipers, clamping vented rotors bolted to alloy bells. I change my brake fluid every year, and have never had a problem with air. I use a Gunson Easybleed. Working from the rear (should be just a single nipple on the N/S caliper), and back towards the front, I bleed all 4 nipples on each front caliper, lowest first. Is the new master cylinder the correct one? Where was it sourced? One of the first things I did with my 400 when I got it 15 years ago was to replace all of the pistons with alloy versions (recommended by AP) and change all of the caliper seals, as well as the rotors, which were below service limit.
Good luck and happy to help with further questions.
Mirror motors, as already suggested, worth unscrewing from the pods and cleaning up the 4 terminals and lubing the nylon gears. If you need to remove the centre panel, first remove the radio. Using the radio aperture as access, you need to find 2 captive bolts (one either side around the middle) and unscrew the nuts. This allows the veneer panel to be removed (after pulling off the 2 air vents and the heater slider plastic covers and cigar lighter). This reveals the backing plate to which the gauges and switches are secured. This panel is held by the 4 (I think) screws that are visible. Removing these allows some access behind, although the electrical cables do restrict how far you can move it around. Hopefully you wont need to go down this route.
Doors can be adjusted - see here. Not that easy though.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Check the shut lines front and rear edges as an indication of dropping. Also possible the back end of the car has settled, in which case you can replace /pack out the rubber sheets between body and chassis at various points.The windows should have a steel cable attached to the channel in which they sit to limit upward movement. Sometimes this breaks or stretches. Once you'v got the door card off, all should be clear.
Tickover hot 1K rpm is good - keeps the coolant and oil circulating better.
Brakes: you say they've been looked at - they're not complicated, but they're also not like most ordinary car brakes these days, which are just single piston sliding calipers. You should have as standard AP / Austin Princess 4 piston calipers, clamping vented rotors bolted to alloy bells. I change my brake fluid every year, and have never had a problem with air. I use a Gunson Easybleed. Working from the rear (should be just a single nipple on the N/S caliper), and back towards the front, I bleed all 4 nipples on each front caliper, lowest first. Is the new master cylinder the correct one? Where was it sourced? One of the first things I did with my 400 when I got it 15 years ago was to replace all of the pistons with alloy versions (recommended by AP) and change all of the caliper seals, as well as the rotors, which were below service limit.
Good luck and happy to help with further questions.
ElvisWedgely said:
Hi Nick. Firstly a Wedge tutorial. You have bought a Wedge, and as such you need to be hands on at all times. It's all a part of the fun of owning and using a Wedge. Just because something is working today, doesn't mean it will necessarily be working tomorrow. Wedges don't like standing for long periods of time, so if you've got one that's been standing, you'll be having a lot of fun putting things right. Wedges don't like the damp either, so ideally kept in a garage or invest in many cans of WD40. Also they tend to leak and develop puddles in the foot well, another reason to ideally keep them in a garage or further invest in the best outdoor cover money can buy. However, covers can give paint or lacquer peeling problems, so watch out for that if you need to cover. The chassis needs to be well protected, waxoil etc. A weakening chassis or one that's been poorly repaired in the past can give serious problems in the future. After all, it's the bits you can't easily see that matters the most.
Now, the problems. Everything you mention is fairly straight forward to put right as others have mentioned and for little cost. Mostly it's to do with lubricating and tracing wiring faults etc. Except the braking system. That may not be so easy or cheap to put right. Wedges don't have the greatest brakes in the world but they should be quite efficient and not spongy. If bleeding doesn't solve the problem, it could be a problem with master cylinder or callipers or even servo. They don't make a locking petrol cap for this car any longer but there is a motorbike one that I believe fits some Wedges and costs around £50. I hope that helps and you enjoy your Wedge ownership.
Tony. TCB.
Hi Tony,Now, the problems. Everything you mention is fairly straight forward to put right as others have mentioned and for little cost. Mostly it's to do with lubricating and tracing wiring faults etc. Except the braking system. That may not be so easy or cheap to put right. Wedges don't have the greatest brakes in the world but they should be quite efficient and not spongy. If bleeding doesn't solve the problem, it could be a problem with master cylinder or callipers or even servo. They don't make a locking petrol cap for this car any longer but there is a motorbike one that I believe fits some Wedges and costs around £50. I hope that helps and you enjoy your Wedge ownership.
Tony. TCB.
I was expecting a few niggles as the car has indeed been used sparingly. It has one of those engines which just feels very strong, and the chassis work which seemed impressively neat from the numerous photos, sold it to me. Looks like copious cans of WD40 and a Leven hood cover, (had one on my Griffith and think they are great as they do not touch the paint) are the order of the day, as I already have 2 cars in a single integral garage
Do you have details of where to get the motorbike locking petrol cap and what it is off.
Thanks
Nick
KKson said:
I actually removed the central console and transmission tunnel on Sunday. On the 390 there are two screws either side of the central pod, which are covered by plastic caps. unscrew these and on mine the whole central cover comes off exposing the instruments etc. There were also two very small screws fixing the instrument section to the top of the tunnel which I removed. To remove the transmission tunnel again on mine there is the central flat "well" section. The base has a pop/push in flat panel which pulled out exposing the main tunnel cover retaining screw. I carefully took the weight of the instrument console and the whole tunnel cover then slid backwards, which gave me enough space to get at the hand brake limit switch which was playing up. To completely remove the cover it would have needed a bit of careful side to side jiggling to get it clear of the gear knob and handbrake.
Hope this helps. Then again each and every TVR is different so good luck!
The 400SE that Nick owns has a completely different dash to the 390 and so the removal is different. I've never remover the center console on a 400SE but I have removed the center part of the dash that retains the five dials. To do this, you have to remove the stereo which can be a job in itself as they are usually tightly wedged in. (well it is a wedge). Once the stereo is out put your hand in through the stereo opening and there are nuts on either side about halfway down behind the center dash. Undo them and the center dash will move forward. Be careful of the many wires to clocks and switches. Hope this helps. Then again each and every TVR is different so good luck!
The motorbike locking cap is from a classic Norton and the make is usually Ceandes. I will be ordering one for myself soon but you have to be careful here because some 400SE's were fitted with a different filler neck and so may not fit. I will give you more information on that later as I dont have all the information to hand this minute.
Tony. TCB.
Hi Nick....The locking fuel caps were originally from a Triumph and Norton motorcycle and were made by "Ceandess" ..Apparently there are replacements but i haven't seen any yet...Here is an original..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PETROL-FUEL-TANK-CAP-2-1...
I don't have any fears of any one nicking my petrol...Think about it who goes round these days syphoning fuel???...And even if they did they can only get to one tank...
For this reason i used an oil filler cap...Non vented due to the open loop system used on a Wedge....Just remove the chain.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITISH-STYLE-FUEL-GAS-C...
Yes keeping your car in a garage does protect it from the majority of elements however condensation happens in a lot of garages and without air movement...Well self explanatory really...I know mine is under cover outside and is exposed to the elements but "She gets a good blow up the skirt which helps to dry out any moisture"...Said the bishop to the cardinal....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PETROL-FUEL-TANK-CAP-2-1...
I don't have any fears of any one nicking my petrol...Think about it who goes round these days syphoning fuel???...And even if they did they can only get to one tank...
For this reason i used an oil filler cap...Non vented due to the open loop system used on a Wedge....Just remove the chain.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITISH-STYLE-FUEL-GAS-C...
Yes keeping your car in a garage does protect it from the majority of elements however condensation happens in a lot of garages and without air movement...Well self explanatory really...I know mine is under cover outside and is exposed to the elements but "She gets a good blow up the skirt which helps to dry out any moisture"...Said the bishop to the cardinal....
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Nick....The locking fuel caps were originally from a Triumph and Norton motorcycle and were made by "Ceandess" ..Apparently there are replacements but i haven't seen any yet...Here is an original..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PETROL-FUEL-TANK-CAP-2-1...
I don't have any fears of any one nicking my petrol...Think about it who goes round these days syphoning fuel???...And even if they did they can only get to one tank...
For this reason i used an oil filler cap...Non vented due to the open loop system used on a Wedge....Just remove the chain.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITISH-STYLE-FUEL-GAS-C...
Yes keeping your car in a garage does protect it from the majority of elements however condensation happens in a lot of garages and without air movement...Well self explanatory really...I know mine is under cover outside and is exposed to the elements but "She gets a good blow up the skirt which helps to dry out any moisture"...Said the bishop to the cardinal....
Thanks for the info, I read somewhere TR7 / 8 caps fit, luckily I have a friend retoring a TR8 so I can try one and see http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PETROL-FUEL-TANK-CAP-2-1...
I don't have any fears of any one nicking my petrol...Think about it who goes round these days syphoning fuel???...And even if they did they can only get to one tank...
For this reason i used an oil filler cap...Non vented due to the open loop system used on a Wedge....Just remove the chain.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITISH-STYLE-FUEL-GAS-C...
Yes keeping your car in a garage does protect it from the majority of elements however condensation happens in a lot of garages and without air movement...Well self explanatory really...I know mine is under cover outside and is exposed to the elements but "She gets a good blow up the skirt which helps to dry out any moisture"...Said the bishop to the cardinal....
Nick
Hi Nick...As said its worth checking as Elvis may have a point...Ive never owned a 400SE so can't comment...But i know that the 280i and the 350i have a 50mm OD filler neck...I struggled so much trying to find a cap for the 280i that i changed the filler neck to an alloy racing neck supplied with cap...The neck was also 50mm OD...Be good to know of a good replacement...Cheers...Ziga
The top is right but the locking mechanism is not correct for the 350i or the 400's fella - I have looked everywhere for one without any luck. The same goes for the Norton and Matchless versions I am afraid!
The hunt continues along with the famous centre console ashtray
The hunt continues along with the famous centre console ashtray
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Nick....The locking fuel caps were originally from a Triumph and Norton motorcycle and were made by "Ceandess" ..Apparently there are replacements but i haven't seen any yet...Here is an original..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PETROL-FUEL-TANK-CAP-2-1...
I don't have any fears of any one nicking my petrol...Think about it who goes round these days syphoning fuel???...And even if they did they can only get to one tank...
For this reason i used an oil filler cap...Non vented due to the open loop system used on a Wedge....Just remove the chain.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITISH-STYLE-FUEL-GAS-C...
Yes keeping your car in a garage does protect it from the majority of elements however condensation happens in a lot of garages and without air movement...Well self explanatory really...I know mine is under cover outside and is exposed to the elements but "She gets a good blow up the skirt which helps to dry out any moisture"...Said the bishop to the cardinal....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PETROL-FUEL-TANK-CAP-2-1...
I don't have any fears of any one nicking my petrol...Think about it who goes round these days syphoning fuel???...And even if they did they can only get to one tank...
For this reason i used an oil filler cap...Non vented due to the open loop system used on a Wedge....Just remove the chain.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITISH-STYLE-FUEL-GAS-C...
Yes keeping your car in a garage does protect it from the majority of elements however condensation happens in a lot of garages and without air movement...Well self explanatory really...I know mine is under cover outside and is exposed to the elements but "She gets a good blow up the skirt which helps to dry out any moisture"...Said the bishop to the cardinal....
I have just ordered a locking cap from these people.
www.feked.com
It works out a little cheaper than the one on the Bay at 53.88 including vat and postage.
Although all the filler caps are 2.5 inches the thing to look out for is if it has a ridge on the inside, about 3cms down from the outer edge of the filler pipe. Without this, the locking mechanism of the cap will have nothing to catch onto and hence won't work. I very nearly ordered one for a previous 400SE which did not have the ridge on the inside of the pipe. In effect it was just a pipe running down to the tank. Luckily, I noticed this and didn't order it.
When I receive my locking cap, probably over the next few days or so, I will post again to let you know how well it fits. If things go wrong, I believe they will take the cap back and refund but there may be a handling charge. So, you are better off waiting to hear how mine goes to be on the safe side.
Tony. TCB.
PS. search code for locking cap is 'cap032'
www.feked.com
It works out a little cheaper than the one on the Bay at 53.88 including vat and postage.
Although all the filler caps are 2.5 inches the thing to look out for is if it has a ridge on the inside, about 3cms down from the outer edge of the filler pipe. Without this, the locking mechanism of the cap will have nothing to catch onto and hence won't work. I very nearly ordered one for a previous 400SE which did not have the ridge on the inside of the pipe. In effect it was just a pipe running down to the tank. Luckily, I noticed this and didn't order it.
When I receive my locking cap, probably over the next few days or so, I will post again to let you know how well it fits. If things go wrong, I believe they will take the cap back and refund but there may be a handling charge. So, you are better off waiting to hear how mine goes to be on the safe side.
Tony. TCB.
PS. search code for locking cap is 'cap032'
Edited by ElvisWedgely on Wednesday 10th February 12:16
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