W164 ML 320CDi Wastegate Solenoid
Discussion
Got a code on my ML relating to operation of the wastegate solenoid and was wondering if anyone knows whether this is the solenoid
It has the purple mark on it and is on the exhaust side of the turbo. If it is do you know what spanner size this is I am thinking somewhere in the low 20s. If anyone knows the part number that would be great as well.
It has the purple mark on it and is on the exhaust side of the turbo. If it is do you know what spanner size this is I am thinking somewhere in the low 20s. If anyone knows the part number that would be great as well.
The item in the picture your referring to with the purple spot is an exhaust back pressure sensor. They are prone to blocking up & then putting the vehicle into limp mode & causing the vehicle to surge badly when try to accelerate. Its easy enough to change & is either 22mm or 24mm spanner size. you'd need to quote your chassis number to get the correct part number for the sensor as there may be a few options dependant upon your exact vehicle as this engine is fitted in several cars throughout the model range.
mbtech01 said:
The item in the picture your referring to with the purple spot is an exhaust back pressure sensor. They are prone to blocking up & then putting the vehicle into limp mode & causing the vehicle to surge badly when try to accelerate. Its easy enough to change & is either 22mm or 24mm spanner size. you'd need to quote your chassis number to get the correct part number for the sensor as there may be a few options dependant upon your exact vehicle as this engine is fitted in several cars throughout the model range.
Thanks for that. Could it cause a P0244 code which relates to a solenoid? I have checked several sources and cannot find a solenoid for this turbo.The only thing that operates the turbo wastegate on your ML is the black actuator motor Y100/1 which is to the lefthand side of the turbo when looking at it. These have been known to play up due to the variiable vanes on the turbo sticking & causing damage to the actuator but unfortunately if it is faulty you have to replace the complete turbo as the actuator motor is not available seperatly. I've tried looking up the fault code you've listed but it doesnt seem to come up for the W164 ML. Are you sure this is the fault code your code reader is giving you. If i find out any more info i'll let you know.
The turbo wastegate actuator is the item on the left with the blue paint mark as i look at the picture you've supplied.
You can try contacting Garrett directly but i doubt if you'll have much success. About 2 years ago the electronic wastegate actuator packed up on my turbo fitted to my Jaguar. It was about a 2 minute job to remove it but after numerous phone calls trying to source a replacement actuator i had no joy. Eventually if i remember i spoke to someone at Garrett & got told they were not available as a seperate item due to the fact that when a turbo is built the actuator is installed & then the turbo is bench tested & the actuator is operated to find the start & end stops of the wastegate. This is then basically burnt into the actuators memory & the actuator then becomes matched to the turbo. I was told that even if i tried taking an actuator of another turbo the chances are it would not work properly.
However times have changed & it may now be possible to buy a replacement actuator for your turbo. It would solve a lot of problems if you could as i know of many manufacturers who suffer the same problem.
I know it cost me a new turbo at the time & i ended up getting a genuine Garrett turbo from Eurocarparts for a fraction of the price to what Jaguar wanted.
If you have any success in finding a replacement actuator let us know as it will be worth noting for future reference.
You can try contacting Garrett directly but i doubt if you'll have much success. About 2 years ago the electronic wastegate actuator packed up on my turbo fitted to my Jaguar. It was about a 2 minute job to remove it but after numerous phone calls trying to source a replacement actuator i had no joy. Eventually if i remember i spoke to someone at Garrett & got told they were not available as a seperate item due to the fact that when a turbo is built the actuator is installed & then the turbo is bench tested & the actuator is operated to find the start & end stops of the wastegate. This is then basically burnt into the actuators memory & the actuator then becomes matched to the turbo. I was told that even if i tried taking an actuator of another turbo the chances are it would not work properly.
However times have changed & it may now be possible to buy a replacement actuator for your turbo. It would solve a lot of problems if you could as i know of many manufacturers who suffer the same problem.
I know it cost me a new turbo at the time & i ended up getting a genuine Garrett turbo from Eurocarparts for a fraction of the price to what Jaguar wanted.
If you have any success in finding a replacement actuator let us know as it will be worth noting for future reference.
Old post but thought I would update.
I had driven around the issue for a quite some time and finally took the turbo off the car and cleaned it with a product specifically designed for cleaning the vane mechanism. I did not take the turbo apart at that time and putting it all back together the car improved greatly but could still slip into limp mode if you pulled away with a few revs more than it liked.
So took it off again having found a turbo specialist not to far away and took it to him. He took the exhaust housing off and cleaned the surface where the vane mechanism sits. It had become pitted and collected carbon crud from the exhaust causing the vanes to bind a bit. He was going to fit a new vane mechanism but said mine was fine and it would be a waste of money. He also checked the actuator and that was working fine.
http://www.qualityturbos.co.uk/
Put it all back together and so far a complete fix. The car is no restored to its former glory with no more limp.
The car had done 46k miles and the turbo showed no signs of wear or issue and indeed at speed it pulled fine you just couldn't give it 100%. Total cost of fix was £72 for the turbo clean up and £200 for various gaskets, bolts, cleaner etc. So a lot cheaper than a recon and a hell of a lot cheaper than a new turbo.
I had driven around the issue for a quite some time and finally took the turbo off the car and cleaned it with a product specifically designed for cleaning the vane mechanism. I did not take the turbo apart at that time and putting it all back together the car improved greatly but could still slip into limp mode if you pulled away with a few revs more than it liked.
So took it off again having found a turbo specialist not to far away and took it to him. He took the exhaust housing off and cleaned the surface where the vane mechanism sits. It had become pitted and collected carbon crud from the exhaust causing the vanes to bind a bit. He was going to fit a new vane mechanism but said mine was fine and it would be a waste of money. He also checked the actuator and that was working fine.
http://www.qualityturbos.co.uk/
Put it all back together and so far a complete fix. The car is no restored to its former glory with no more limp.
The car had done 46k miles and the turbo showed no signs of wear or issue and indeed at speed it pulled fine you just couldn't give it 100%. Total cost of fix was £72 for the turbo clean up and £200 for various gaskets, bolts, cleaner etc. So a lot cheaper than a recon and a hell of a lot cheaper than a new turbo.
Hi guys i dont want to hijack the thread but i wonder if i may ask a few questions?
I have a 2006 ML320 cdi which is experiencing a limp mode issue, if you give it some heavy acceleration the car seems to splutter and go into limp mode, although no warning lights are present. If it is turned off and restarted it seems fine again....
I have spoken to the previous owner and he had the car diagnosed and they said it was the waste gate actuator sticking open and was quoted £2500.00 for the supply and fit of a complete new turbo.
Now after a little research it turns out although you dont seem to be able to buy the actuator it can be repaired, so a full turbo is no longer required, obviously merc wouldnt offer this, its a complete unit only.
I guess one question i have is how difficult is it to remove the turbo as i would be considering removing it and having it overhauled and as previously mentions possibly cleaned?
Any help or advice is much appreciated
I have a 2006 ML320 cdi which is experiencing a limp mode issue, if you give it some heavy acceleration the car seems to splutter and go into limp mode, although no warning lights are present. If it is turned off and restarted it seems fine again....
I have spoken to the previous owner and he had the car diagnosed and they said it was the waste gate actuator sticking open and was quoted £2500.00 for the supply and fit of a complete new turbo.
Now after a little research it turns out although you dont seem to be able to buy the actuator it can be repaired, so a full turbo is no longer required, obviously merc wouldnt offer this, its a complete unit only.
I guess one question i have is how difficult is it to remove the turbo as i would be considering removing it and having it overhauled and as previously mentions possibly cleaned?
Any help or advice is much appreciated
The turbo is time consuming to remove. The main issue is the fact it is at the back of the engine so the manifold bolts are out of sight. It would be a good idea to get hold of some small socket wrenches
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3pc-Thumbwheel-Palm-Ratc...
an
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-3-8-1-2-Drive-Stubby...
and a pad as I found that kneeling on the slam panel allowed me to see better what I was doing. The gaskets are fairly straight forward but pay attention with the main exhaust connection which is a foil covered ring as I found it a little awkward to get the correct seal which is achieved by a clamp.
I can say that more than a year on I have had no issues and it is most likely that the internal vane mechanism is sooted up and sticking. You can remove the actuator very easily and have that tested to confirm it is not that. When I removed mine operating the linkage on the turbo by hand I could feel the binding of the mechanism and the actuator is designed to give an error if that binding goes outside of its tolerance.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3pc-Thumbwheel-Palm-Ratc...
an
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-3-8-1-2-Drive-Stubby...
and a pad as I found that kneeling on the slam panel allowed me to see better what I was doing. The gaskets are fairly straight forward but pay attention with the main exhaust connection which is a foil covered ring as I found it a little awkward to get the correct seal which is achieved by a clamp.
I can say that more than a year on I have had no issues and it is most likely that the internal vane mechanism is sooted up and sticking. You can remove the actuator very easily and have that tested to confirm it is not that. When I removed mine operating the linkage on the turbo by hand I could feel the binding of the mechanism and the actuator is designed to give an error if that binding goes outside of its tolerance.
Hi Slacker, thanks for the reply.
At the weekend i replaced my glow plugs and had to remove the actuator to get to the glow plug at the back, my question here i guess is what should the connecting rod feel like, once mine was detached from the actuator it was very loose or sloppy....is that how its supposed to be?
Cheers
Stephen
At the weekend i replaced my glow plugs and had to remove the actuator to get to the glow plug at the back, my question here i guess is what should the connecting rod feel like, once mine was detached from the actuator it was very loose or sloppy....is that how its supposed to be?
Cheers
Stephen
ste68blue said:
Hi Slacker, thanks for the reply.
At the weekend i replaced my glow plugs and had to remove the actuator to get to the glow plug at the back, my question here i guess is what should the connecting rod feel like, once mine was detached from the actuator it was very loose or sloppy....is that how its supposed to be?
Cheers
Stephen
Well mine was not stuck but had a definite binding part way through the travel. Did you pull the linkage through its full range of motion (on the turbo not the actuator)? Have you checked for codes?At the weekend i replaced my glow plugs and had to remove the actuator to get to the glow plug at the back, my question here i guess is what should the connecting rod feel like, once mine was detached from the actuator it was very loose or sloppy....is that how its supposed to be?
Cheers
Stephen
The actuator can be tested, the guy I took mine to had a diagnostic machine which tested my actuator through its whole range of movement and it came through fine. Do you have a turbo place nearby where you could take the actuator? If so it could be worth your while to test it to rule it in or out. If the actuator is the cause then get a new/refurb one and problem is solved with a lot less work than a turbo removal/refit.
Hi again, thanks for the reply.
yes the connecting rod seemed quite loose and didnt seem to bind at all.
One thing i did find when i took the air pipe that connects the filter boxes to the turbo was that the sealing ring seems to have been put in incorrectly and not only crushed but also split, since i tried to put it back correctly i dont seem to be experiencing the limp mode issue (and i have tried booting it and gosh its pretty rapid) i am going to order a new one just incase.
yes the connecting rod seemed quite loose and didnt seem to bind at all.
One thing i did find when i took the air pipe that connects the filter boxes to the turbo was that the sealing ring seems to have been put in incorrectly and not only crushed but also split, since i tried to put it back correctly i dont seem to be experiencing the limp mode issue (and i have tried booting it and gosh its pretty rapid) i am going to order a new one just incase.
WOW! That is bad. These rings can allow condensed oil to drip down into the V and contaminate the flap mechanism. I have changed my seal in the past and also the oil breather seal to the left of the turbo into the plastic manifold in your picture. This could have caused an air leak which may well have caused your limp mode.
Edited by SLacKer on Friday 2nd October 14:21
hi guys, thanks for the replies.
i am gunna get the new sealing rings from the local dealers tomorrow.
can you give me more info about the inlet motor?
Any pics or instructions/ directions would be much appreciated.
I have to say, since i refitted that sealing ring, making sure it slotted in place properly i havent been able to get it to go into limp mode.....
i am gunna get the new sealing rings from the local dealers tomorrow.
can you give me more info about the inlet motor?
Any pics or instructions/ directions would be much appreciated.
I have to say, since i refitted that sealing ring, making sure it slotted in place properly i havent been able to get it to go into limp mode.....
Just google
mercedes om642 port valve shutoff
and have a read round the results. I wouldn't assume it is this that is causing your issue. You are replacing the seal, which is a CRAP design.
Drive the car and check you are not getting oil leakage below the turbo. I checked mine with an endoscopic camera and was happy I hadn't got a problem. The mechanism and electronics are buried in the V of the engine so are not immediately accessible for visual checking.
If the problem comes back get the codes. Nothing fancy required for engine codes even on a Mercedes. I use one of these (they have the code descriptions built in rather than some booklet). There are loads of others and various dongles and android phone apps.
Don't assume it is the port valves and worry yourself to death, get the seal replacement and fit it carefully and don't over tighten the clip. Then drive it and if it doesn't trip into limp mode then that issue is sorted.
mercedes om642 port valve shutoff
and have a read round the results. I wouldn't assume it is this that is causing your issue. You are replacing the seal, which is a CRAP design.
Drive the car and check you are not getting oil leakage below the turbo. I checked mine with an endoscopic camera and was happy I hadn't got a problem. The mechanism and electronics are buried in the V of the engine so are not immediately accessible for visual checking.
If the problem comes back get the codes. Nothing fancy required for engine codes even on a Mercedes. I use one of these (they have the code descriptions built in rather than some booklet). There are loads of others and various dongles and android phone apps.
Don't assume it is the port valves and worry yourself to death, get the seal replacement and fit it carefully and don't over tighten the clip. Then drive it and if it doesn't trip into limp mode then that issue is sorted.
SLacKer said:
Got a code on my ML relating to operation of the wastegate solenoid and was wondering if anyone knows whether this is the solenoid
It has the purple mark on it and is on the exhaust side of the turbo. If it is do you know what spanner size this is I am thinking somewhere in the low 20s. If anyone knows the part number that would be great as well.
It has the purple mark on it and is on the exhaust side of the turbo. If it is do you know what spanner size this is I am thinking somewhere in the low 20s. If anyone knows the part number that would be great as well.
TOYOKA said:
Got a code on my ML relating to operation of the wastegate solenoid and was wondering if anyone knows whether this is the solenoid
It has the purple mark on it and is on the exhaust side of the turbo. If it is do you know what spanner size this is I am thinking somewhere in the low 20s. If anyone knows the part number that would be great as well.
No the other sideIt has the purple mark on it and is on the exhaust side of the turbo. If it is do you know what spanner size this is I am thinking somewhere in the low 20s. If anyone knows the part number that would be great as well.
With the blue mark on it to the left of the turbo
Not sure if this is of any use to other 3.0 v6 cdi users, I had the same type if fault..under full load, sudden loss of power and limp mode. Turn it off and on, and back to normal.
It could be the actuator - you can get it refurbed for £80 from Taylor's on eBay
It could be the red seal on the pipe that connects to the turbo as they are common to fail
Inter cooler hoses split, they get old, go soft, and can split, when under hard throttle they can't control the air because of the splits
Dpf clogged, dpf temp sensor units fail,
Inlet port motor, really common, there is a £1 modification you can do using a resistor from Maplin!
Hope this helps
It could be the actuator - you can get it refurbed for £80 from Taylor's on eBay
It could be the red seal on the pipe that connects to the turbo as they are common to fail
Inter cooler hoses split, they get old, go soft, and can split, when under hard throttle they can't control the air because of the splits
Dpf clogged, dpf temp sensor units fail,
Inlet port motor, really common, there is a £1 modification you can do using a resistor from Maplin!
Hope this helps
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