Sublime Pandamonium II

Author
Discussion

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2012
quotequote all
Hello...

http://www.autopanels-castleford.co.uk/webpages/Fi...

...woohoo

Closes at five so it'll wait until I'm at work tomorrow. wink

Flying Toaster

270 posts

152 months

Tuesday 3rd April 2012
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So, you're making a supercharged panda? You sir, are bonkers! and i salute you!

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Wednesday 4th April 2012
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It makes perfect sense...

http://youtu.be/J5aiDuemgJ4

... silly

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Wednesday 4th April 2012
quotequote all
Liquid Knight said:
frown

None of the part I need that are listed on the site are actually available. D.I.Y sills it is then. Do I re-enforce the chassis with box section or roll cage tube? Decisions eh? wink

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Thursday 5th April 2012
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Got bored earlier...



wink

jacklewisno1

376 posts

143 months

Friday 6th April 2012
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Liquid Knight said:
Got bored earlier...



wink
Thats immense!!!!!!! i should do that to my 500

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Saturday 7th April 2012
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Thanks to the Fiat Forum I'll have a four branch exhaust manifold in the post on Tuesday. smile

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Sunday 8th April 2012
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866 (Punto 75) cam' £34 wink


Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Thursday 12th April 2012
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I welded base plates to the front hoop of the cage yesterday and took the head off the 16V engine. I was told it was a 1.4 (1368cc) engine when I bought it but when I checked the part numbers on the head, loom, ac pump and alternator they suggested it was a 1242cc engine. Now I have the head off I measured the bore and stroke to find it is a 1368cc block with a 1242 head.

After a little more investigation the water pump was held in with silicone and the even though the gasket between the head and the cam's was new and the bolts were also the old head gasket had been reused and there was radweld type stuff blocking one of the water channels.

So it looks like the 1368cc block had a 1242cc head fitted after the water pump failed. The water pump and head were bodged into place.

So do I continue with the 1108cc engine in the shed that has the distributor ready to go or do I fit the 1108cc head on to the 1368cc block with distributor and x/1-9 carb'?

The 1.5 carb' would need very little adjustment to suit the set up and if I clean the ports of the head before fitting it and fit the Punto 75 cam' it probably wouldn't need adjusting at all.

What do you guys think?

Fluid

1,723 posts

184 months

Thursday 12th April 2012
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Probably a bone question, why is it called a fire engine?

RicksAlfas

13,355 posts

243 months

Thursday 12th April 2012
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Fluid said:
Probably a bone question, why is it called a fire engine?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fully_Integrated_Robotised_Engine

Fluid

1,723 posts

184 months

Thursday 12th April 2012
quotequote all
RicksAlfas said:
Fluid said:
Probably a bone question, why is it called a fire engine?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fully_Integrated_Robotised_Engine
Thanks, I'll give it a read. thumbup

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Friday 13th April 2012
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The blue paint arrived today and I've had an idea for the supercharger. smile

Using the actuated pulley from the air conditioning pump and the old heater matrix controls to operate a flap in the air intake to go from n/a to charged. I can even use the heater switch. Stealthy eh?

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Monday 16th April 2012
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Okay I took three sleeping tablets last night and woke up this morning to find my laptop had this on the screen (and I've bid on a knackered SAAB Aero Estate, bloody eBay).



So with the actuated pulley from the air con' unit wired to a switch on the dash, and a cable from the old heater matrix to open and close the flap to go from N/A to charged. Looks fairly simple and may even work. wink

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Thursday 19th April 2012
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So today I've been working the angles for the roll cage.

Started out by tying some ribbon (couldn't find any string) around the upright where I want the weld the diagonal bar to later...



...sticking the other end in place with tape.



Then used the ribbon as a guide to draw a stencil.



Popped over to my local forge the get the pipes cut and the correct angles.



Used the off cut as a guide for to draw and grind out a flange...





...ready to weld and paint.



I'll finish the dirty welding inside first though.


Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Friday 20th April 2012
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Okay so I did the clean welding today. For two reasons, 1/ I'm doing the school run in a bit and didn't want to lose track of time under the car and 2/ The lengths of bar would probably have been nicked if I left them anywhere. Metal theft is at an all time high in this part of rural Norfolkistan.

So I tacked the diagonals to the uprights only to discover I couldn't get the bloody cage back out of the car to finish it and re-install after some tidy bench welds. So the windows had to come out...



...and it got done. Considering the lack of space and rain showers pretty well. smile



I need to find out how strong the seat bars are so I can use one as a cross bar to mount the shoulder straps from my harness to.



I will get back to the dirty welding soon enough. My eBay free listing firesale has reaped in enough for a pair of 40's better suited to a draw through conversion just as an interesting alternative gets listed as well. scratchchin

So here's a quick guide to removal and refitting sealed windows. wink

To remove the window from inside of the car pull the lip of the rubber seal up with one hand and gently tap the window at the same point with the other. Best to start at the lower rear corner as it is the weakest point of the seal.

Once you get about half way go outside the car and use one hand to support the window and the other pushing gently outwards from inside the tailgate.

As soon as the window had only the B pillar seal use both hands to wobble it out carefully.



To refit you'll need a length of close line about five feet long.

Wrap the close line around the inner seal of the window...



...making sure the line meets at the bottom of the window.

Place the glass into position ensuring the lower seal is over the lip of the window frame...



...and the line is inside the car.

Now pulling upwards and along the seal gentle pull the line out of the seal...



...making sure the seal goes over the lip and tapping the glass gently as you go round.

Once you get back to the bottom of the window remove the line and gently press the window from outside until it no longer has any movement. Clean the hand prints off and you're done. smile

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Saturday 21st April 2012
quotequote all
Not much in the way of progress to report today. I've taken the seat out of Guff I and placed it in Guff II to see how it looks...



...I was actually thinking of getting a different seat but it looks so right in there it has to stay. smile

On the Fiat forum it has been suggested that the crank to cam' ratio may be different on the 1368 block. Basically because the 1368 block is a bored and stroked version of the FIRE engine the crank may turn at a slower rate and fitting the eight valve head wouldn't work. I was fairly sure this wasn't the case but checked to save a headache later.

1108cc block...



...A481 wheel approximately 55mm across.

1368cc block...



...the same A481 wheel 55mm in diameter. Phew. wink

I've been getting too horny with the Fantasia as I have found the second of the Fiat Coupe horns...



...I tried wiring them in parallel first and either horn would work but when both were wired neither would. The same thing in series. There aren't enough amps for the dual horns to work. frown

I fitted the lower tone of the two so it's more of a get out of the way "Honk!" the an excuse me "Meeep!". wink

Chaz9950

1,128 posts

143 months

Saturday 21st April 2012
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Awesome build!

Just a quick one on the horns - why not wire a relay in, instead of the horns, with a fused feed off the battery? That way, you can have as many amps as you require, and you'll not burn any switches out!

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Sunday 22nd April 2012
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Chaz9950 said:
Awesome build!

Just a quick one on the horns - why not wire a relay in, instead of the horns, with a fused feed off the battery? That way, you can have as many amps as you require, and you'll not burn any switches out!
I did think of using the same live feed as the driving lamps but it was cacking it down and getting dark. Back at work today so I won't be able to get anything done until next Saturday. frown

Liquid Knight

Original Poster:

15,754 posts

182 months

Monday 23rd April 2012
quotequote all
The 100th post on this thread already? silly

Well it's bad news. Much as I would love to build the worlds first supercharged Panda for practicalities sake I've decided to go for a turbo or N/A instead.

So here's the eBay listing...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261008640721?ssPageName=...

...10% off if you mention the forum before the checkout if you're the winning bidder.

Twenty one watchers and no bids as yet so I could be stuck with it. wink