V6 Power Drop when Revved Hard (with videos)
Discussion
Hi All,
I am having issues when fully depressing the accelerator. In the 1st video below from idle (in neutral) I fully press the accelerator and the power dies. This situation remains with the needle either bouncing around 1,500rmp, or even registering nothing (below 500rpm?), until I lift off the gas whereby the revs approach something approaching normal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sd1X8XDwZ8A
In this vid if I press about 50% then I can just about get the engine to rev smoothly upto the red line – although even this requires delicate balance of the pedal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCfER7kK0D4
This problem happens when driving. From a rolling start (about 10mph), I floor the pedal and the car will instantly respond and rev smoothly and quickly to around 6,500rpm and then die until I lift off the throttle.
Generally the car seems to idle rough. Certainly much rougher than my previous 2 Twin Sparks – which were silky smooth by comparison. The car has recently had the following:
New MAF
Timing Belt
(I have also performed a ECU Reset with no difference)
Both of these where done as soon as I bought the car and so I have no benchmark to compare to before these items were replaced. The car has no lights on the dash and I have plugged it in to the laptop which shows no error codes.
I have been researching this all day and I have seen similar threads with issues ranging from Cats, water, bad earth, faulty MAF. From these vids can anybody narrow this down a little?
Regards
I am having issues when fully depressing the accelerator. In the 1st video below from idle (in neutral) I fully press the accelerator and the power dies. This situation remains with the needle either bouncing around 1,500rmp, or even registering nothing (below 500rpm?), until I lift off the gas whereby the revs approach something approaching normal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sd1X8XDwZ8A
In this vid if I press about 50% then I can just about get the engine to rev smoothly upto the red line – although even this requires delicate balance of the pedal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCfER7kK0D4
This problem happens when driving. From a rolling start (about 10mph), I floor the pedal and the car will instantly respond and rev smoothly and quickly to around 6,500rpm and then die until I lift off the throttle.
Generally the car seems to idle rough. Certainly much rougher than my previous 2 Twin Sparks – which were silky smooth by comparison. The car has recently had the following:
New MAF
Timing Belt
(I have also performed a ECU Reset with no difference)
Both of these where done as soon as I bought the car and so I have no benchmark to compare to before these items were replaced. The car has no lights on the dash and I have plugged it in to the laptop which shows no error codes.
I have been researching this all day and I have seen similar threads with issues ranging from Cats, water, bad earth, faulty MAF. From these vids can anybody narrow this down a little?
Regards
Hi all,
I spent this weekend upgrading the front speakers, back speakers and head unit (priorities!) and so haven't had a chance to looking into the suggestions.
I just got an engine light with error "P0202 injector circuit malfunction - cylinder 2" and have just bought some spark plugs to see if it sorts it out (in hope more than expectation)
Will check the pipes for air tightness and check out what maf I have when attempting this on the weekend.
I spent this weekend upgrading the front speakers, back speakers and head unit (priorities!) and so haven't had a chance to looking into the suggestions.
I just got an engine light with error "P0202 injector circuit malfunction - cylinder 2" and have just bought some spark plugs to see if it sorts it out (in hope more than expectation)
Will check the pipes for air tightness and check out what maf I have when attempting this on the weekend.
This is going to sound ridiculous, but my revving/idle issue appears to have been solved by...
...fitting a new instrument dial cluster (MPH/Revs)
The car was bought and registered in the UK and is left hand drive. Even so, the car had a KM speedo. Going over the history and old MOTs for the car this has always been the case. I bought the car with the idea that I would change to a MPH speedo as soon as possible.
On monday I changed the clusters over, turned the car on and instantly I could tell the difference. I have noticed the following:
The rev counter responds much quicker when you start the engine. With the KM clock, it felt like there was some lag for the rev counter reporting. Not it jumps almost immediately to 800RPM
The car feels much smoother at idle and the rev counter stays firmly at 800RPM. Before it would idle between 1000 and less that 500RPM and generally feel rough.
The most important difference is the engine now responds to the accelerator. I can floor the throttle and without hesitancy it revs all the way to the red line (this is at idle). Gone is the surging and dying of the engine and the inaccurate dial reading as experienced pre-new dial cluster. It's like a car transformed.
I'd be interested to hear if anyone has any experience of this or has a hypothesis as to why this might happen? All I can think of is that the KM cluster unit had something wrong with the electrics which affected the whole car. Other than that I can't see how this would have solved the above engine issues.
Yours. Confused. Adam
...fitting a new instrument dial cluster (MPH/Revs)
The car was bought and registered in the UK and is left hand drive. Even so, the car had a KM speedo. Going over the history and old MOTs for the car this has always been the case. I bought the car with the idea that I would change to a MPH speedo as soon as possible.
On monday I changed the clusters over, turned the car on and instantly I could tell the difference. I have noticed the following:
The rev counter responds much quicker when you start the engine. With the KM clock, it felt like there was some lag for the rev counter reporting. Not it jumps almost immediately to 800RPM
The car feels much smoother at idle and the rev counter stays firmly at 800RPM. Before it would idle between 1000 and less that 500RPM and generally feel rough.
The most important difference is the engine now responds to the accelerator. I can floor the throttle and without hesitancy it revs all the way to the red line (this is at idle). Gone is the surging and dying of the engine and the inaccurate dial reading as experienced pre-new dial cluster. It's like a car transformed.
I'd be interested to hear if anyone has any experience of this or has a hypothesis as to why this might happen? All I can think of is that the KM cluster unit had something wrong with the electrics which affected the whole car. Other than that I can't see how this would have solved the above engine issues.
Yours. Confused. Adam
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