Wiring in an extra washer motor
Discussion
Hi guys
For various reasons which I don't need to go into detail on, I need to wire in an additional washer motor.l and have it activated from the cabin. All we be ripped out in a few weeks time and when the car dies/ is replaced.
I have some wire, a rocker switch, an in line fuse holder, a generic pump and some pipe work, along with a pop bottle to store the fluid in. Also got some crimps and appropriate crimping tool.
So, wiring wise, do I simply go:-
Battery +ve > fuse > rocker > pump and then simply wire the other spade on the pump straight to the nearest suitable earth?
The generic pump doesn't appear to have any obvious marking for the +ve and -ve spades, and easy way to figure out which is which??
For various reasons which I don't need to go into detail on, I need to wire in an additional washer motor.l and have it activated from the cabin. All we be ripped out in a few weeks time and when the car dies/ is replaced.
I have some wire, a rocker switch, an in line fuse holder, a generic pump and some pipe work, along with a pop bottle to store the fluid in. Also got some crimps and appropriate crimping tool.
So, wiring wise, do I simply go:-
Battery +ve > fuse > rocker > pump and then simply wire the other spade on the pump straight to the nearest suitable earth?
The generic pump doesn't appear to have any obvious marking for the +ve and -ve spades, and easy way to figure out which is which??
Sounds right to me.
Wouldn't worry about the polarity too much - as long as you don't hold the button down for ages and burn it out you can stop and switch the wires over!
It'd pass a MOT like that too as long as you label the switch. I'm about to do the same with the horn in my Trafic van.
Wouldn't worry about the polarity too much - as long as you don't hold the button down for ages and burn it out you can stop and switch the wires over!
It'd pass a MOT like that too as long as you label the switch. I'm about to do the same with the horn in my Trafic van.
eltax91 said:
So, wiring wise, do I simply go:-
Battery +ve > fuse > rocker > pump and then simply wire the other spade on the pump straight to the nearest suitable earth?
Yup.Battery +ve > fuse > rocker > pump and then simply wire the other spade on the pump straight to the nearest suitable earth?
eltax91 said:
The generic pump doesn't appear to have any obvious marking for the +ve and -ve spades, and easy way to figure out which is which??
If it blows bubbles into the washer bottle, swap the connections over.Toaster Pilot said:
It'd pass a MOT like that too as long as you label the switch.
...or are about to tell the tester which one it is. The test doesn't have any requirements on markings, just so long as the poor sod can find it.Also make sure it is the right kind of switch.
You probably want a momentary NO (Normally open). This would have only two connections on it, and only passes current with the switch depressed and springs back when released.
If you accidentally use/buy a NC (normally closed) switch it will run until you hit the switch
You probably want a momentary NO (Normally open). This would have only two connections on it, and only passes current with the switch depressed and springs back when released.
If you accidentally use/buy a NC (normally closed) switch it will run until you hit the switch
Thanks for the advice everyone. This isn't specifically for a washer bottle. The fuel pump is dying on my brothers shed. Money expected end of September for new shed.
The car is currently failing to start when left for more than 8 hours or so, but goes on easy start and runs forever no prob, starts fine warm too. Almost like there's air getting in the system. But everything has been tried to resolve and a pump is the now diagnosis.
So, this little Heath Robinson gig is to pump diesel into the intake for a blip when cranking to get fuel into the mix and get it going.
The car is currently failing to start when left for more than 8 hours or so, but goes on easy start and runs forever no prob, starts fine warm too. Almost like there's air getting in the system. But everything has been tried to resolve and a pump is the now diagnosis.
So, this little Heath Robinson gig is to pump diesel into the intake for a blip when cranking to get fuel into the mix and get it going.
spookly said:
Also make sure it is the right kind of switch.
You probably want a momentary NO (Normally open). This would have only two connections on it, and only passes current with the switch depressed and springs back when released.
If you accidentally use/buy a NC (normally closed) switch it will run until you hit the switch
The rocker was rescued from an old tyre inflator, so is closed until thrown. Rather than it being a push to make/ break switch. You probably want a momentary NO (Normally open). This would have only two connections on it, and only passes current with the switch depressed and springs back when released.
If you accidentally use/buy a NC (normally closed) switch it will run until you hit the switch
So rather than fix the leak you are going to spend hours coming up with a spacky bodge using inappropriate materials? What happens when your juice bottle or screenwash pump decide they dont like holding a material they were never designed for and pisses diesel over the road will you notice and retrace your steps or leave it there for a biker to kill themself on next time it rains?
OldGermanHeaps said:
So rather than fix the leak you are going to spend hours coming up with a spacky bodge using inappropriate materials? What happens when your juice bottle or screenwash pump decide they dont like holding a material they were never designed for and pisses diesel over the road will you notice and retrace your steps or leave it there for a biker to kill themself on next time it rains?
I wouldn't worry about it. A washer pump sucking petrol through will go bang in short order, and it won't even start with diesel slurped into the manifold.Ok chaps, not my suggestion, but one arrived at by the mechanic who diagnosed the faulty pump. I had sort of took it at face value.
Guess we had better get back to the drawing board.
For the sanctimonious among you, talking about cheap bodges, the fuel pump is a £300 plus Job at a garage, the car was purchased as a stop gap for around that sort of money anyway. It's going to be striped for bits in around 6 weeks, just needs to go until then.
If you read my previous threads you will found one asking about possible causes. All the cheap stuff has been tried, so a small wedge has been thrown at fixing it, which has not proven successful, so not at all as black and white as you are making out.
Guess we had better get back to the drawing board.
For the sanctimonious among you, talking about cheap bodges, the fuel pump is a £300 plus Job at a garage, the car was purchased as a stop gap for around that sort of money anyway. It's going to be striped for bits in around 6 weeks, just needs to go until then.
If you read my previous threads you will found one asking about possible causes. All the cheap stuff has been tried, so a small wedge has been thrown at fixing it, which has not proven successful, so not at all as black and white as you are making out.
Use google to find a diesel priming bulb.
Install into system.
Problem solved, although you look like a bit of a wierdo pumping the bulb for 10 minutes every time you want to start the car.
You should probably find a better 'mechanic'.
ETA; was feeling generous, install it on the line that goes from the filter to the pump;
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-...
la-274497336244|crid:89797547524|nw:g|rnd:2324860974580853943|dvc:c|adp:1o1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwi_W9BRD_3uio_Jz-p8UBEiQANU80vkjtHLvQGbRZ6DZ7-0ix9toRCOCMHCNTLifWmYlkUWkaAoY88P8HAQ
Install into system.
Problem solved, although you look like a bit of a wierdo pumping the bulb for 10 minutes every time you want to start the car.
You should probably find a better 'mechanic'.
ETA; was feeling generous, install it on the line that goes from the filter to the pump;
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-...
la-274497336244|crid:89797547524|nw:g|rnd:2324860974580853943|dvc:c|adp:1o1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwi_W9BRD_3uio_Jz-p8UBEiQANU80vkjtHLvQGbRZ6DZ7-0ix9toRCOCMHCNTLifWmYlkUWkaAoY88P8HAQeltax91 said:
For the sanctimonious among you, talking about cheap bodges, the fuel pump is a £300 plus Job at a garage, the car was purchased as a stop gap for around that sort of money anyway. It's going to be striped for bits in around 6 weeks, just needs to go until then.
If you read my previous threads you will found one asking about possible causes. All the cheap stuff has been tried, so a small wedge has been thrown at fixing it, which has not proven successful, so not at all as black and white as you are making out.
It's still a cheap bodge, however it relates to the purchase price of the car - not that that's particularly relevant when we're talking about something as safety-critical as whether there's fuel slopping about in any kind of sensible way.If you read my previous threads you will found one asking about possible causes. All the cheap stuff has been tried, so a small wedge has been thrown at fixing it, which has not proven successful, so not at all as black and white as you are making out.
If fixing the car properly is too expensive, throw it away, don't bodge it.
Simple question - how amused would Mr MOT be?
Non return valve spliced into the fuel supply line?
And yes, you need a better mechanic if he suggested that, thats tempting death material. Is his fix for perished flexis to paint them with tyre paint?
If its just draining back to the tank it is either aleak in the feed, return or bleed off pipework, or a seal or failing non return valve on the lift pump or filter head, an easy fix without replacing the pump, sealkits are available for mostly anything and diesel pumps on ebay start at £30
And yes, you need a better mechanic if he suggested that, thats tempting death material. Is his fix for perished flexis to paint them with tyre paint?
If its just draining back to the tank it is either aleak in the feed, return or bleed off pipework, or a seal or failing non return valve on the lift pump or filter head, an easy fix without replacing the pump, sealkits are available for mostly anything and diesel pumps on ebay start at £30
Do it properly if you're fitting a pump for fuel:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-STATE-ELECTRIC-FUE...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-STATE-ELECTRIC-FUE...
lostkiwi said:
Do it properly if you're fitting a pump for fuel:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-STATE-ELECTRIC-FUE...
Which won't help on a diesel.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-STATE-ELECTRIC-FUE...
amstrange1 said:
Continue with using the easy start for 6 weeks?
This is an option. But 5am starts for the owner and dragging his Mrs up to turn while he sprays is getting tiresome. Air intake is front pax side so can't reach to do both.
As far as the garage goes, another opinion but sought. Car is a zafira DTi which is famous evidently for fuel pumps. As all the other common stuff has been done, several garages have suggested fuel pump
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