Quick rack on an S1
Discussion
For those contemplating replacing a worn rack on their Elise (S1 or S2) I can definitely recommend fitting a quick ratio rack. I bought mine direct from Titan (the original manufacturers). They are the same price as standard (very reasonable!) and only enhance the driving experience.
They are not so much quicker as to make the car twitchy or nervous in any way, they just feel more responsive and make the twisties an even more enjoyable experience.
It took me about 2 hours all in to replace the rack - the fiddliest bit definitely being re-aligning the u/j at the bottom of the steering column!
They are not so much quicker as to make the car twitchy or nervous in any way, they just feel more responsive and make the twisties an even more enjoyable experience.
It took me about 2 hours all in to replace the rack - the fiddliest bit definitely being re-aligning the u/j at the bottom of the steering column!
Hi Martyn
The cost of the replacement quick ratio rack was £200. There are two other cheaper options. Titan can also rebuild your old rack (assuming it is one of theirs) or they can sell you the parts necessary to recondition it yourself.
All they need is the serial number off the rack casting.
The cost of the replacement quick ratio rack was £200. There are two other cheaper options. Titan can also rebuild your old rack (assuming it is one of theirs) or they can sell you the parts necessary to recondition it yourself.
All they need is the serial number off the rack casting.
Very straightforward job and the clam doesnt need removing.
In a nutshell :-
Jack up the front & support properly. Make sure you have a decent amount of space on one side of the car as the rack has to slide out and its quite long!
Remove both front wheels.
Split both track rod ends from the hubs using a forked splitter or something similar.
Loosen the bottom clamping bolt on the uj at the bottom of the steering column.
Remove the four bolts holding the rack in place. This is done from within the footwells and is easier if you have a decent, long extension.
The rack will now be loose and can be rotated and manoeuvred round so that it can be slid out of the channel which runs across the width of the car. Its a bit fiddly to release it from the uj but if the clamping bolt is loose it shouldnt be too difficult. The rubber grommet can be pushed out towards the rack.
In a nutshell :-
Jack up the front & support properly. Make sure you have a decent amount of space on one side of the car as the rack has to slide out and its quite long!
Remove both front wheels.
Split both track rod ends from the hubs using a forked splitter or something similar.
Loosen the bottom clamping bolt on the uj at the bottom of the steering column.
Remove the four bolts holding the rack in place. This is done from within the footwells and is easier if you have a decent, long extension.
The rack will now be loose and can be rotated and manoeuvred round so that it can be slid out of the channel which runs across the width of the car. Its a bit fiddly to release it from the uj but if the clamping bolt is loose it shouldnt be too difficult. The rubber grommet can be pushed out towards the rack.
For some reason, I can only make short posts today so this is in installments! (damned TalkTalk!)
Now, if you look down the channel where the rack is housed, you will see the end of a pop rivet sticking out, directly opposite the pinion housing on the rack. This will stop you from gaining enough access room to turn the rack and slide it out.
Get a long chisel and just knock the end off it. It comes away very easily and is not required for structural strength (I checked with the factory!). The rack should now slide out.
I'd recommend replacing the track rod ends at the same time and by laying the old and new racks side by side, you can get a fair approximation of the correct position for the T/R ends.
Centre the rack as best you can. Measuring from the bolt holes to the T/R ends is a good way to do this.
Now, if you look down the channel where the rack is housed, you will see the end of a pop rivet sticking out, directly opposite the pinion housing on the rack. This will stop you from gaining enough access room to turn the rack and slide it out.
Get a long chisel and just knock the end off it. It comes away very easily and is not required for structural strength (I checked with the factory!). The rack should now slide out.
I'd recommend replacing the track rod ends at the same time and by laying the old and new racks side by side, you can get a fair approximation of the correct position for the T/R ends.
Centre the rack as best you can. Measuring from the bolt holes to the T/R ends is a good way to do this.
Slide the new rack in and loosely bolt it in, leaving the drivers side bolts nice and slack (this is to allow movement when aligning the splines). Fit the rubber grommet round the pinion.
Centre the steering wheel and align the bottom uj onto the pinion splines. This is a right fiddle and patience is required to get the wheel centred.
Bolt up the four rack mounts. Tighten the UJ clamping bolt. Connect the T/R ends to the hubs and check everything is secure and OK.
Fit the front wheels, lower the car off the stands and take it to a good geo shop. Ideally a full geo is always a good idea but in real terms, nothing but the front tracking should have been affected so if you are confident in your geo setup, then any decent garage with wheel alignment kit should be able to set your tracking
Centre the steering wheel and align the bottom uj onto the pinion splines. This is a right fiddle and patience is required to get the wheel centred.
Bolt up the four rack mounts. Tighten the UJ clamping bolt. Connect the T/R ends to the hubs and check everything is secure and OK.
Fit the front wheels, lower the car off the stands and take it to a good geo shop. Ideally a full geo is always a good idea but in real terms, nothing but the front tracking should have been affected so if you are confident in your geo setup, then any decent garage with wheel alignment kit should be able to set your tracking
Edited by talkwrench on Wednesday 9th May 11:39
Sounds a bit 'scary' doing it though 
M7RT V said:
Sorry bud, all I meant was i'll take a few pictures to go along with your words.
Hah! S'ok. I just thought there was a separate section somewhere called 'How to'.
Everyones info is always useful. More than one way to skin a cat!
Stange expression. I mean... who skins cats these days? Well, perhaps the occasional one....
chorlton said:
be nice to hear what other people think of the quick rack, I wasn't sure but after hearing this write-up I am begining to slide towards this to replace mine.
I wouldn't hesitate. I was a little concerned that it may be too quick or make the car nervous but it really suits the car and I love it now!. Titan informed me that this was the rack ratio that the Lotus engineers originally used in the prototypes and it was their preference but the marketing boys wanted to play it safe.
If you're ever up in Yorkshire, youre welcome to pop over and give mine a try.
I also considered the Nitron rack and spoke to them at some length. I could see no reason not to choose the Titan one in the end. Titan make a whole range of components specifically for the motor racing industry and really seem to know their stuff.
Nitron obviously do the same thing but place a higher premium on the pleasure!
Nitron obviously do the same thing but place a higher premium on the pleasure!
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